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Old 08-15-2016, 08:56 PM   #15
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I have a 2008 Safari SE 25 with rear twin beds. We've been working at resealing starting on the roof as we had leaks at side window next to door and the skylight was leaking. A rusty colored crud had appeared inside at the ceiling seam and on a few rivets near skylight. We replaced skylight, cleaned up the rusty crud and it's returned at one of the ceiling seams. The leak by front window next to the door stopped, and a new one appeared on the other side of the door by the stove - but only when it rains really hard.

Meantime, the back storage compartment started leaking near the edge where the bumper meets the skin. When we purchased the trailer in 2014 it had a slight musty odor when we'd open the curbside storage compartment inside under the twin bed, but the back outside storage compartment never leaked until recently. It makes sense that this would be coming from the back bumper and wicking underneath. I did elevate the tongue and that seems to have helped somewhat but I am changing out towels in the back compartment every time it rains, and it's raining frequently.

Sealing above and below the rub rail seemed like a good idea, but I've read varying opinions of not to seal under or not to seal above, because it has to breathe and not to trap the water inside.

So it's kind of confusing. Why not seal under the rub rail since that's where water collects, sits on the bumper and will go right under, and above so it won't get in from above? I'm wondering why the rub rail insert and the rub rail both need to come off? Besides sealing above and below and removing the insert and making sure rivets underneath are sealed, why undo the rub rail itself. It seems it would be better left intact.

Any help will be appreciated - I'd like to do it right and I'm just trying to understand.
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by asv2 View Post
I have a 2008 Safari SE 25 with rear twin beds. We've been working at resealing starting on the roof as we had leaks at side window next to door and the skylight was leaking. A rusty colored crud had appeared inside at the ceiling seam and on a few rivets near skylight. We replaced skylight, cleaned up the rusty crud and it's returned at one of the ceiling seams. The leak by front window next to the door stopped, and a new one appeared on the other side of the door by the stove - but only when it rains really hard.

Meantime, the back storage compartment started leaking near the edge where the bumper meets the skin. When we purchased the trailer in 2014 it had a slight musty odor when we'd open the curbside storage compartment inside under the twin bed, but the back outside storage compartment never leaked until recently. It makes sense that this would be coming from the back bumper and wicking underneath. I did elevate the tongue and that seems to have helped somewhat but I am changing out towels in the back compartment every time it rains, and it's raining frequently.

Sealing above and below the rub rail seemed like a good idea, but I've read varying opinions of not to seal under or not to seal above, because it has to breathe and not to trap the water inside.

So it's kind of confusing. Why not seal under the rub rail since that's where water collects, sits on the bumper and will go right under, and above so it won't get in from above? I'm wondering why the rub rail insert and the rub rail both need to come off? Besides sealing above and below and removing the insert and making sure rivets underneath are sealed, why undo the rub rail itself. It seems it would be better left intact.

Any help will be appreciated - I'd like to do it right and I'm just trying to understand.
I don't know which way is the "best". Personally I decided to take the rub rail off and seal the joint between the bumper plate and shell. My thinking was that was a more permanent solution to the problem.

That's not to say sealing the top and bottom of the rub rail might not work. I did both (the rub rail top and bottom and the gap above the bumper plate) as a double prevention. If the rub rail is sealed there will be no water under it and no reason for it to "breathe". If it can "breathe" can water can get behind it and without the gap between the bumper plate and shell sealed it will leak again.

Those are my thoughts.
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:09 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
I don't know which way is the "best". Personally I decided to take the rub rail off and seal the joint between the bumper plate and shell. My thinking was that was a more permanent solution to the problem.

That's not to say sealing the top and bottom of the rub rail might not work. I did both (the rub rail top and bottom and the gap above the bumper plate) as a double prevention. If the rub rail is sealed there will be no water under it and no reason for it to "breathe". If it can "breathe" can water can get behind it and without the gap between the bumper plate and shell sealed it will leak again.

Those are my thoughts.
I appreciate your input. It does seem taking off the rub rail is a neater more efficient way to seal because you can actually see and get to what you're doing better, as well as clean up any dirt and grime from the grooves in the rub rail.

I have a PDF file from Airstream with step-by-step instructions for leaks and sealing end shell and bumper seams. (I was hoping solving the issue would be simpler) It first instructs to look for water dripping from underbelly (they note that not all water dripping from the underbelly will be due to an improperly sealed rear end) The next step is to remove the rivets and carefully roll back the underbelly to gain access to the floor area to check for water. If water is found they instruct to put a long cut in the reflective insulation to drain the water, and then look for the source of the problem. After that it goes on to describe what you have done with removing the rub rail insert, etc. After removing rub rail & cleaning, they recommend Sikaflex 221 grey for sealing seams/holes: bumper end shell seams, banana seams & screw holes securing rail. Then after the rub rail is resecured and insert installed, they advise to reseal top edge of rub rail with Acryl-R. No mention of sealing underneath. (Still seems like extra protection to me)

I'm still contemplating how to proceed, but it sounds like removal of the rub rail is the right way to do it. Darn it!
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:19 PM   #18
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Did you remove rub rail moulding (not just the insert) completely or just caulk on the top and bottom of it?
Stopping the leak by removing the rub rail is not very hard. This is what I did.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...de-109059.html

Good luck!
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:57 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by asv2 View Post
I appreciate your input. It does seem taking off the rub rail is a neater more efficient way to seal because you can actually see and get to what you're doing better, as well as clean up any dirt and grime from the grooves in the rub rail.

I have a PDF file from Airstream with step-by-step instructions for leaks and sealing end shell and bumper seams. (I was hoping solving the issue would be simpler) It first instructs to look for water dripping from underbelly (they note that not all water dripping from the underbelly will be due to an improperly sealed rear end) The next step is to remove the rivets and carefully roll back the underbelly to gain access to the floor area to check for water. If water is found they instruct to put a long cut in the reflective insulation to drain the water, and then look for the source of the problem. After that it goes on to describe what you have done with removing the rub rail insert, etc. After removing rub rail & cleaning, they recommend Sikaflex 221 grey for sealing seams/holes: bumper end shell seams, banana seams & screw holes securing rail. Then after the rub rail is resecured and insert installed, they advise to reseal top edge of rub rail with Acryl-R. No mention of sealing underneath. (Still seems like extra protection to me)

I'm still contemplating how to proceed, but it sounds like removal of the rub rail is the right way to do it. Darn it!
Darn it (putting it mildly) for sure.

I did not remove the belly pan. What I did instead was drill an 1/8 hole through the floor in the center of each section and then pushed a rod with a point on the end down through the hole to puncture the insulation. I had a few drops of water drain out but nothing like I've seen some have to deal with.

We have had some serious rain since I finished the repair and have not seen any evidence of moisture.
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Stopping the leak by removing the rub rail is not very hard. This is what I did.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...de-109059.html

Good luck!
You did a really nice job with your repair. It gave me a lot of inspiration. Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:07 PM   #21
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If you don't mind a little extra work and really want to fix it check out the flashing suggestions I just made on this thread. Obviously skipping replacing the L bracket part.
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:00 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
Darn it (putting it mildly) for sure.

I did not remove the belly pan. What I did instead was drill an 1/8 hole through the floor in the center of each section and then pushed a rod with a point on the end down through the hole to puncture the insulation. I had a few drops of water drain out but nothing like I've seen some have to deal with.

We have had some serious rain since I finished the repair and have not seen any evidence of moisture.


We had a work day, almost completing sealing the roof areas today. For bumper area decided to go with removal of the rub rail. Question: Is the black plastic looking material (don't know what it's called) adjacent to right and left of the bumper under the rub rail supposed to be sealed completely, or have an open spot for drainage spot on each side where it meets the bumper? (this is area with black sealant)

Funny, I had a similar thought for the belly pan, and brought a shish kabob skewer to put up through 2 holes in the belly pan (or so I thought ) to poke a hole in the insulation and check for water. Turns out the holes I was looking at are drainage for the bumper storage area. I was thrilled to see to drainage holes without having to drill anything but didn't realize they were not far back enough.

Did you leave the 1/8" holes you drilled for drainage? Great to hear you have had no more leaks!
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:03 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Stopping the leak by removing the rub rail is not very hard. This is what I did.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...de-109059.html

Good luck!
Thank you , Your photos and instructions are very helpful - nothing like photos!
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:05 PM   #24
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If you don't mind a little extra work and really want to fix it check out the flashing suggestions I just made on this thread. Obviously skipping replacing the L bracket part.
I'm sorry, but it doesn't look like your flashing suggestions made it to the thread.
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:04 PM   #25
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I'm sorry, but it doesn't look like your flashing suggestions made it to the thread.
Sorry not sure what happened. Thread post 13 and a little further on.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/help-rear-floor-155381.html
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:23 AM   #26
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Sorry not sure what happened. Thread post 13 and a little further on.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...or-155381.html
Thank you HiJoe, we aren't going to be taking it down that far right now, but I am saving those instructions. I hope I won't need them though!
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Old 05-04-2017, 11:22 AM   #27
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Hi daKs,
We're considering Komacel Plus as well. We have a different thread going on our issue, but wanted to check in and see how yours is holding up. Have you noticed any sag or expansion in high heat?
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