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Old 09-20-2010, 03:14 PM   #1
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2012 27' FB International
Bellevue , Washington
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Please help, I'm so sad :( 2006 Safari leaking...

and I understand that re-sealing is all a part of maintenance. I am going to attempt to do this myself but I can't find anywhere here on the forums what type of climate I should be in to do the re-sealing? It's starting to get cold here and I will be re-sealing it outdoors. Cold to us here in Seattle is around 50 degress.

I will also be using SikaFlex 221 which I will order off the AS website.

I found the leak, it's coming through the aft, port side top above one of the panoramic windows.

My husband says I should try and do it myself (the AS was a gift to me -- so I guess I inherit all the maintenace issues, lol).

Any help, advice would be so greatly appreciated.

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Old 09-20-2010, 03:24 PM   #2
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Ashland , Missouri
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Well, that makes two of us needing to seal up the outside of our trailers! won't be alone. Cold of 50 degrees sounds like perfect "work" temp to me. We've pulled out Argosy into our metal barn for the sealing job, but it's been too hot and humid here to do the work, even though the trailer is now sheltered. A little scaffolding, the right tools, good tunes on the radio, and cool long drinks of iced tea to keep us hydrated--I think we can do it. We're still in a heat wave here, but hopefully by next week we'll have rounded the bend into more fallish weather here in mid Missouri and working on the Argosy will be fun. Best wishes with your job. ~G

1995 Airstream Classic Limited 30' ~ Gypsy
1978 Argosy Minuet, 6.0~Minnie/GPZWGN
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:29 PM   #3
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Sikaflex 221 is good for applications temp from 40F to 105F. It cures by reacting with humidity.
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:39 PM   #4
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:46 PM   #5
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2006 30' Classic S/O
Pine Bluff , Arkansas
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silkaflex 221 is the stuff to use and women can do this job (I did)...just take your time and clean out the old completely..I used a sharpened popcicle stick, medication syrine filled with silkaflex to really penetrate the narrow spots, old rag (wipe immediately or a big mess) to" blue tape" the surrounding skin area before starting for rapid clean is simular to detailing the kitchcen stove just coming back to fill the cracks(lol) big lifting or pushing...just climbing a ladder..lots of luck!!!!
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:54 AM   #6
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Bellevue , Washington
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thanks everyone -- really. Sure is good to know I can come here and get all this valuable information from you all. I'm going to photograph my progress as I go this weekend. Just ordered the Sikaflex 721 (I guess it has UV protection in it). Hopefully one tube will do the job.

Thanks again, you have all calmed me down and made me feel MUCH better. Here is a picture of our precious AS. We took her "off road" and parked her in a meadow hoping to see some Elk. Didn't see any Elk but had a beautiful time nontheless.

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Old 09-21-2010, 11:32 AM   #7
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Battle Lake , Minnesota
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Why is it an Airstream looks so darn nice out there in the natural element? The rounded shape echoing the gentle hills? The aluminum reflecting the color and light of the day?
Great trailer.
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Old 09-21-2010, 11:50 AM   #8
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Assuming you pick a good day for doing the job, for me the keys to a good caulking job are:
a. completely clean out the caulk you want to replace.
b. remove all remnants of old caulk and wipe joint clean using a little lacquer thinner on a rag.
c. mask the edges of the joint with masking tape. For typical large joints, I like to put the edge of the masking tape about 1/4" to 5/16" from the joint corner.
d. find a good place to start and stop the joint.
e. apply the caulk to the seam using a caulking gun, slightly overfilling the joint. If the caulk is drying too quickly to tool easily, you may want to spray a light coat of mineral spirits on the caulk right behind the caulking gun.
f. use a round object such as the piece of plastic pipe shown in the pic to tool a perfect concave joint, see pic. You may have to try several different "tools" to find just the right one .
tool-c - Photo Gallery
g. try to tool the joint in one continuous stroke. It's ok to go back over a joint to smooth it out. If the tool drags in the caulk, it may help to use an old windex bottle to spray a light coating of mineral spirits on the caulk just before tooling.
h. immediately after tooling, remove the masking tape, pulling the tape out and away from the joint, trying not to let the tape touch the freshly tooled joint.
i. throw the masking tape you just removed into the trash immediately, so it doesn't contaminate the work area.

This system works good and produces professional results.
So Long!
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Old 09-21-2010, 02:49 PM   #9
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Probably should add, the joint needs to be bone dry and clean! If you aren't sure, use a hair dryer to make sure it's dry. Having grown up near Pt. Townsend, I know that joints don't dry out there like they do in less humid climates. I'd pick a fairly clear and warm'ish day with light breeze and no fog!

So Long!
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