Sikaflex 1a in aluminum and AcryL-R sm5504 narrow joint sealant in aluminum. Will these products work for above banana wrap area. There is chrome strip that is removable right above that where shell meets there are areas the old caulk is not doing it's job. Should I consider doing this area over. I can get parabond local as well. I asked for 271 sikaflex told me they have lots of it but gave me 1a sikaflex guess they do not know what there talking about. I will submit photo shortly.
Parabond had video of these areas using aluminum color and alcohol on rag. I caulked many new homes so I am pretty much caulkmaster. For me to try and remove all old caulk seems extreem for my new trailer looks like grey rubber product in there failing. Would parabond grip around this stuff.
There is chrome strip that is removable right above that where shell meets there are areas the old caulk is not doing it's job. Should I consider doing this area over.
Hi Starcraft,
Yes you should re seal anything that looks like it is not properly sealed. Especially the bumper trunk flashing under the "rub rail" at the back of the trailer. If not it will funnel water under the trim and directly into your wood floor. You can't see it until it is usually too late.
Here's what it looks like from below.
Parabond had video of these areas using aluminum color and alcohol on rag. I caulked many new homes so I am pretty much caulkmaster. For me to try and remove all old caulk seems extreem for my new trailer looks like grey rubber product in there failing. Would parabond grip around this stuff.
Star,
No caulkmaster here......
I used the black Loctite PL on the blacktank vent on the roof...still holding up very well after 5 Seasons. When it came time to seal the rear bumper leak,(same as above), thats what I used, above and below the molding, doesn't blend as well as the alum color would but......we'll see how it holds up.
I didn't clean "all" the old, just used a small hooked awl & cleaned out as much of the loose stuff as I could, blew out and wiped down with mineral spirits.
I have some panel and clearance light leaks that I have to re-do this Spring and will be using the plews gun & acryl-r for those.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
I would say you need to use the Silkaflex or Tempro 635 on that belly band. The gray cracked stuff is probably Parbond. I don't see much of any sealant on that belly band. That area above the bumper plate and below the belly band really needs to be sealed well. It is worth removing the belly band just to be able to seal and inspect that area. Make sure your floor is not already rotten back there. I expect 90% of trailers leak back there. The Silka Flex is for around window frames etc where there is little or no gap.
There needs to be a pretty good fillet of material or it will crack around that belly band. The more material the less it has to elongate when something moves.
We have just purchased a '75 Sovereign 31 with a center bath and we are having the same problems with leaks. We have removed all built-ins in the front and rear and discovered the floor is rotted at the rear with isolated water damage in the front. I am assuming our next step is to take out all the old caulk around the windows and door and recaulk everything. What material should be use around the windows and door and what is the best way to remove all of the old caulking without damaging the skin?
Is it necessary to remove the belly band and inspect behind or should we just caulk? Should we use the Silkaflex or Tempro 635?
on my last 3 Airstreams I have come to 1 conclusion...blue tape and Tempro...
That stuff stay flexible for years...all of the other stuff I have used gets hard and cracks...leaks soon to follow...
Mask off both sides with blue tape (it matches the Airstream quite well)...shoot a bead of Tempro and shove..um. smooth...into the crack with a finger...
Thanks for the info. What is the best way to remove the old caulk. I have tried a utility knife and a painters tool but I'm afraid it will damage the skin.
Thanks for the info. What is the best way to remove the old caulk. I have tried a utility knife and a painters tool but I'm afraid it will damage the skin.
Carefully...
I use a plastic putty knife/scrapper. Mineral spirits, Black Majic,(used to be whestlies), Bleche-Wite Tire Cleaner, Lectra Motive spray clean. Plenty of rags and gloves.
Worked pretty good on the roof vent.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
It is used on automotive applications because it leaves no residue. Do not use carb cleaner that stuff is strong.
I have used brake cleaner....very very carefully. Tested in several areas not visible. I did not list it because I don't recall the brand. It's not something I'd recommend. Some are VERYstrong and will damage the clear. Never sprayed directly on anything, had some road stripping paint on the banana wrap, only time I ever used it.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
I found a few areas water might make it's way into trailer. This belly band is that chrome strip. Should I pull this all back to inspect and is it possible to replace all chrome strip with new without braking the bank. Rear bumper area I did above chrome part and bottom near black metal bumper not clean line as acrylic r dry's super fast even in 35 degree weather. Trailer still looks nice even with little aluminum color in wrong places. I will get pics of my work if I head back to trailers location. Now I am thinking bamboo flooring and will start another post. Gotta get rid of any leaks first though. Top had this white crap everywhere looked like 3m 4200 marine poly.
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What I have used...
Linear Mode
