|
02-22-2005, 08:36 PM
|
#1
|
Airstream Newbie
1974 25' Tradewind
Murphy
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 16
|
Parbond or Gutter Seal for Exterior Seams???
Okay, I'm soon to begin refinishing the exterior of my '74 Tradewind. I've read some conflicting info on sealants, so I've got a couple of questions for those with some experience. I understand that Parbond and Gutter Seal are primarily used for sealing exterior panel seams. Does the Gutter Seal really turn a greenish-brown over time? Does Gutter Seal leave an "ugly" bead along the seam? Is Parbond a clear product? Have you had better experience with Parbond over Gutter Seal on the seams?
Also, a PO tried to seal the seams with an unknown sealant. What have you found to be the best method for removing the old, dry, cracked sealant? One person used an old dental tool, but wouldn't that scratch the aluminum? Are there any chemical removers available?
Any clarifications would be greatly appreciated!
|
|
|
02-22-2005, 09:01 PM
|
#2
|
Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmoss
Okay, I'm soon to begin refinishing the exterior of my '74 Tradewind. I've read some conflicting info on sealants, so I've got a couple of questions for those with some experience. I understand that Parbond and Gutter Seal are primarily used for sealing exterior panel seams. Does the Gutter Seal really turn a greenish-brown over time? Does Gutter Seal leave an "ugly" bead along the seam? Is Parbond a clear product? Have you had better experience with Parbond over Gutter Seal on the seams?
Also, a PO tried to seal the seams with an unknown sealant. What have you found to be the best method for removing the old, dry, cracked sealant? One person used an old dental tool, but wouldn't that scratch the aluminum? Are there any chemical removers available?
Any clarifications would be greatly appreciated!
|
I prefer Parbond, that is what Airstream used when they built my trailer 30 years ago, and it has withstood the test of time. As far as removing old caulk of unknow origin...I use whatever works, sometimes you can luck up on a chemical that will soften or remove it and sometimes not. I have used everything from MEK and Paint Thinner to Aircraft Stripper. They work on some things but not others. I have also used a Dremel tool with brass brushes in it, hand held brass brushes, sharpened popsicle sticks, orange sticks, and my pocket knife. Most if not all of it will be trial and error. BTW Parbond comes in different colors including clear, I use the silver...because.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
|
|
|
02-22-2005, 09:39 PM
|
#3
|
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
New Borockton
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,593
|
Perfect responce less you forgot the "fingernail." Most handy tool in my arsenal when removing old caulking.
Parbond is a great sealant and easy to apply right out of the tube.
__________________
Randy...Converters, Inverters, Trimetric, Surge Protectors, Zamp, Smartplug, AGM Batts
888-828-1893
Bestconverter.com
|
|
|
02-22-2005, 10:35 PM
|
#4
|
3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 212
|
For removing old sealer, I'd suggest using a sharp plastic scraper in conjunction with a heat gun.
I found some little (3" or so) plastic scrapers at Home Depot designed for paint stripping work. They're hard enough to do some serious scraping, but soft enough not to scratch aluminum. Since they're intended for use with caustic strippers, they're impervious to almost any chemical. The stuff I used soaked right through my nitrile rubber gloves, but it didn't faze these scrapers.
I used a couple in a major paint removal project on my Argosy. The edges dull fairly quickly, but I've resharpened them dozens of times with my disk sander. With a new, sharp edge they are very effective.
Remnants that you can't quite remove with the scraper will come off with an application of paint remover and a scrubbee pad - one of those woven plastic kitchen cleaners.
Bob
|
|
|
02-22-2005, 10:36 PM
|
#5
|
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmoss
Does the Gutter Seal really turn a greenish-brown over time?
|
Yes. It does turn an ugly green. And it shrinks. It should only be used for very very small openings, like the seams.
I put it over my tail lights and windows and it turned nasty looking.
|
|
|
02-23-2005, 04:52 AM
|
#6
|
Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Chandler
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,770
|
Ok all, could someone give me a list of sealents to use and where to use them. I'm a little confused about vulkum, parbond, etc.......What do I use where? I have a 78 Argosy that I want to seal around the windows, vents, AC. I ordered vulkum but now I read about this parbond. Which is best? Judy
|
|
|
02-23-2005, 05:26 AM
|
#7
|
Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
|
Parbond is uses for small seams because it has wicking ability. Use it to seal panel seams on the roof and trim along the belt line. I have seen it in clear, silver, white and black. It can also be used around windows. You can use Silkaflex for vents or larger seams where you would normally use Vulkum and it does not have that grainey look that some of the Vulkum have.
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
|
|
|
02-23-2005, 07:57 AM
|
#8
|
Airstream Newbie
1974 25' Tradewind
Murphy
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 16
|
I had bought some Vulkem and Gutter Seal, but I think I'll ditch the Gutter Seal and go with Parbond. I just wish airstreamdreams.com wouldn't sell the product if many aren't pleased with the results. Or, at least they could provide more description on how others are using them in their restoration projects.
I'm also going to give the heat gun and plastic scrapers a trial.
Thanks for the responses... especially the info on Gutter Seal:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Yes. It does turn an ugly green. And it shrinks. It should only be used for very very small openings, like the seams.
I put it over my tail lights and windows and it turned nasty looking.
|
|
|
|
02-23-2005, 08:36 AM
|
#9
|
3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
|
Well first the following is a MUST read for anyone curious about Caulking/Sealants etc.:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=7626
The reports on Seamer Mate are interesting and worth trying but I find it thicker than reported. Maybe I bought old stock or something. It is readily available (in gutter section at Lowes & HmDepot) and cheap enough.
As for tools for removal, I have put together a box of all sorts of odds & ends that I tote up top when I work on removing the various slops of stickum that have been put there over the years. Still there seems to always be need for a different "tool". Ive got the dental picks etc from Harbor freight, and the plastic putty knives and popsicyle stix and corn dog (round) wooden skewers, a butter knife, screw drivers, wire brushes (mini), a 5-in 1 paint tool (Hyde) which is my most valuable tool period, metal & wooden spoons, cardboard cutter, exacto knife, church key (beer opener), q-tips, Hoppes #9 nitro solvent (bore cleaner), metal scour pads, burlap rag, and anything else I find that looks like it can gouge, scrape and peel. Oh needle nose pliers and a tile-grout removal tool from WalMart that is wickedly sharp and must be used judiciously.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|