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Old 05-26-2005, 10:35 AM   #1
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Thumbs up Parbond (again)

I've been feeding the local black flies and mosquitoes while doing some preventative sealing around my windows, door, marker lights, awning rails etc. and thus far have been using Parbond exclusively. I just read a few posts (smart of me to research this further after I've already started ) stating that you should use Vulkem or Sikaflex around the door and over the tops of the windows. I've done all these areas with Parbond as there were no gaps larger than 1/8" so I figured that I was good to go. I'm happy with the way the Parbond goes on and looks, it certainly seems to have crept into the seams and sealed everything quite well. Has anyone else sealed these areas with Parbond? If yes, what was your experience? Any input would be greatly appreciated. P.
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Old 05-26-2005, 11:07 AM   #2
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Can you explain a little more about your technique?

How did you clean the joints before filling. . .
Did you tape the joints. . . .
Did you use the Parbond out of the tube, or did you use a syringe. . . . ?

I'm ready to start sealing mine, but I'm worried that the seams might be full of 46 years of road dust and dirt.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:14 PM   #3
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I scraped any of the old remaining sealant out with plastic putty knives (which required constant re-sharpening) , razor blades, and a jagged piece of broken plexiglass. For any sealant that was still in good shape and well stuck I just scraped the old perished top layer off and left the rest which I applied the Parbond over top of (none of it was silicone). After scraping I washed down all the seams with fantastik and water, then dried/wiped them again. I didn't use the tape method, this Parbond stuff goes on in a really tidy thick bead that kind of self-levels as it creeps into the seams. I used the toothpaste-like squeeze tubes and had no problems making a very acceptable bead, and I'm pretty fussy about things like that. Unless you are really shaky, or completely anal, then just go freehand to save yourself the extra time and $. At least try a small section and see how you do and what the end result is. P.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:19 PM   #4
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BTW - the broken plexi was the best scraping tool that I used. It was harder than the plastic putty knives, had multiple sharp edges, and to re-sharpen all you had to do was break another chunk off with pliers. P.
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Old 05-26-2005, 03:30 PM   #5
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Mark,
I have been plowing the caulking out on mine with a dremel tool with the plastic brush wheel in it. It does an excellent job of getting the deep in stuff out, along with orange sticks, popsicle sticks, fingernails etc.

Peter&Denise,
I use Vulkem on the tops of the window frames, then Parbond about 2/3 of the way down. On the Vista Views I used Vulkem around the top two thirds. My door has a drip cap over it so I used the Vulkem for the extra fill power, also on the awning rail. Some of my stuff I taped and some I didn't, depended on whether it was visible from ground level or not

Aaron
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:35 PM   #6
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I've used Parbond on both my '01 Safari and '04 Classic. Its not because of leak issues but more of a situation where I have seen a small rise in an aluminum panel at the rivet lines. In most cases I can see the Silkaflex further into the panel, but I figure if there is no gap, water cannot sit there and expand on freezing thus potentially becoming a leak point.

Application is really just squeezing a small amount out of the tube as it wicks into the open gap. At the rate I'm going that initial small tube will probably last 10-15 years, unless it dries up first.

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Old 06-06-2005, 06:28 PM   #7
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The nylon brush rules!

Just tried this and it works really, really well! Thanks for the tip!

Mary

Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Mark,
I have been plowing the caulking out on mine with a dremel tool with the plastic brush wheel in it. It does an excellent job of getting the deep in stuff out, along with orange sticks, popsicle sticks, fingernails etc.

Peter&Denise,
I use Vulkem on the tops of the window frames, then Parbond about 2/3 of the way down. On the Vista Views I used Vulkem around the top two thirds. My door has a drip cap over it so I used the Vulkem for the extra fill power, also on the awning rail. Some of my stuff I taped and some I didn't, depended on whether it was visible from ground level or not

Aaron
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Old 06-06-2005, 08:23 PM   #8
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Hah! another Dremel Convert...ask Stefroberts how many she has killed I actually got to buy a new Dremel just for the AS...my wife got tired of me borrowing hers

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Old 06-07-2005, 07:07 AM   #9
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Not exactly a convert--just discoverer of a new use! This is my 3rd Dremel, and I've pretty much beat this one up with daily use. Fave project so far was using it to cut the steel of my trailer frame. Yes, a dremel can do that! My only annoyance is that the wheels and deeliebob attachments are all a bit pricey--and only last for about one use. However, I understand there's a dealer on ebay who sells knockoffs at a fraction of the cost. Tough part, I don't seem to be able to predict what I'll need.

Mary
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