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Old 04-09-2008, 07:39 AM   #15
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"Zep"

I read that entire thread a few days ago. That's where I got the idea of the pre-shimmed butyl tape. It seems he had problems finding small quantities of it as well. An excellent thread and thanks for suggesting it.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:05 AM   #16
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Butyl Tape

I saw butyl tape on this site:

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

Anne

Quote:
Originally Posted by pnb77
So far I've used Vulkem and pop rivets on all of these seams, but it's covered by the lower molding. I'll get to try my hand at buck riveting once I get all of the parts I've ordered for re-building my overhead windows (I believe they are called Vista View windows?). Which brings me to another problem. I posted a thread about pre-shimmed butyl tape, only to find that the seller on ebay had made a mistake in his post. I tried to order one roll of the butyl tape and was rejected because his minimum order is 20! So, does anyone know where I might find a source for small quantities of the Tremco pre-shimmed butyl tape?
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:19 AM   #17
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Butyl Tape

Thanks Anne, but the tape I'm looking for is 1/4" "pre-shimmed" butyl tape.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
The opportunities for leaks on a coach this old are numerous! One of the easier ones -- http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...nts-24437.html. The rear frame & bumper tend to flex. The seal at the rear bumper always has been a weak design. Have an adult stand on the bumper and lightly hop up and down; look closely at the bumper shell interface for movement. That's a place to address. Also look at whether your window and door gaskets have ever been replaced. Plan on that if they're not resilient any more.
Another important place to check is the skylight vents.

I look at heavy rainstorms as opportunities to check for leaks in our trailers. When I have time, I run out to the trailers during heavy rain to double check all vents, doors and windows for new leaks.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:13 PM   #19
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you might try asking the supplier if he'll pass your number to one of his/her customers for a small quantity sale.
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:50 AM   #20
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Leaks

I had noticed the other night that there was still a few droplets running down the sides of the walls. This would probably be from the vents, would you suggest removing and replacing or to clean out the old sealant and reseal? I'm at a cross roads as far as what absolutely needs to be done and what I can get away with until fall/winter. My kids are beating on me to finish up so we can go camping but I'd much rather stay dry!!

Also, excellent idea to contact sources of butyl tape. I'll check in to that.

Once again, thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:59 AM   #21
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A quick update on my progress:
I finished welding in the new cross brace last night, that really solidified the floor! I'll be priming painting and hopefully installing the new wood this weekend. I was planning to use treated 3/4" plywood and seal with thompsons water seal after all the cuts were made and prior to installation. I had also thought of using fiberglass resin to coat the edges. I looked into marine grade plywood and no one close sells it. I'm not sure what the major differences are but can't be too much. I do plan to post new pics soon. I've taken quite a few just haven't had time to download and post.

Short nights and long days have started to take their toll. It doesn't help that I have three major rebuilds going on at the same time: 1996 Seadoo GSX, 1982 AMC Eagle & 1973 Airstream! All that while tring to help chase three kids around. There's nothing like taking a break from welding to give the kids their bathes!
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:08 PM   #22
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Do not use treated plywood!

I don't think that you should use treated plywood. The stuff that they treat lumber with now is very, very corrosive. Not only will it corrode your aluminum but also your steel frame.

Marine plywood has more laminates than regular plywood including treated. Mine has 8 layers and the original AS floor and standard plywood has only 5. Also the marine plywood has less voids than regular plywood and some say it has a different glue but I am not sure of that.
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:59 AM   #23
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I'll have to look around more to try to find marine grade plywood. I'm sure it's more expensive but would be worth it.
More rain last night so I checked the AS this morning and behold, more water! Below is a picture. I can't believe it still leaks after all the work I've done to try to damn up the flood. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnb77
I'll have to look around more to try to find marine grade plywood. I'm sure it's more expensive but would be worth it.
More rain last night so I checked the AS this morning and behold, more water! Below is a picture. I can't believe it still leaks after all the work I've done to try to damn up the flood. Any suggestions?
Double check your seals/gaskets on all openings in the shell. After that, check the seals in all the aluminum panel seams.

Water will take the path of least resistance. Sometimes it drips from the ceiling and sometimes it will run down the ribs inside the walls; it will run down wiring and plumbing; it will run down whatever it finds to get it to the ground the quickest/easiest manner.
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:09 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnb77
I'll have to look around more to try to find marine grade plywood. I'm sure it's more expensive but would be worth it.
If you can't find MGP you might use AC fir plywood and seal it real good. I think that fir plywood would not warp as bad as pine. MGP is more expensive. I paid $75/sheet and I think that was a good price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pnb77
More rain last night so I checked the AS this morning and behold, more water! Below is a picture. I can't believe it still leaks after all the work I've done to try to damn up the flood. Any suggestions?
You might want to check out this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f477...tml#post532147
I am sure there are others. You just need to use the search feature.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:17 AM   #26
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I hadn't read that forum but that is exactly what I've come across. Did you incorporate the metal in your drawing? I had thought of something similar. What I did was removed the lower belt line (as Zep calls it), removed the lower metal (banana wrap), sealed the banana wrap, riveted it on correctly, removed the bumper lid and belly pan, cleaned out all the crevices with a wire wheel, cleaned with acetone, laid a bead of vulkem and the interface of the bumper and outer skin, attached the lower belt line, applied vulkem to only the top of the belt. I have not attached the belly pan or the bumper lid. I also removed the old sealant from the top of the window and tail lights and resealed. Right now I'm focusing on the rear roof vent as the possible source but can't be for sure. I am close to positive that the bumper is not the problem here, it has to be coming from somewhere else. The reason I think this is because the amount of water present. I would assume the bumper if only small amounts were present but not that much! The engineers that designed that bumper must have been smoking something (after all, it was the seventies!)
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