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03-27-2007, 04:47 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 57
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Leaks, and leaks again
Hi. We had some leaks few years ago in our 84 Soveriegn. I used valkum and caulked all the joints. I thoight we fixed the leaks for good. But they are back in full force. Does anybody know how one can fix the leaks so that we do not have to work as inspector every spring? We are even thinking to take it to a dealer to get it fixed. Is it worthed? Can they do it? Or, should we switch to a new TT which is not AS? To be honest, AS looks and pulls great, but we have had it with the leaks. And, from all the posts that I read, it appears that evrybody has the same problem. Any kind of advise is appreciated. Cheers
__________________
85 sovereign
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03-27-2007, 07:01 PM
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#2
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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check your sewer vents.
they can cause leaks that will travel and be hard to find.
here is an example http://www.airforums.com/forum...nts-24437.html
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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03-27-2007, 07:16 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic
Farmington
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 826
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dan ---though you may be having some maintance problems with your 23 year old Airstream, think about this. If it were a 23 year old SOB you would probably be tickeled to death to ONLY have leak problems----pieman
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03-27-2007, 07:39 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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Shouldn't he be using Alcoa Gutter Seal or Parbond for seam sealing (both wick into the seams). I thought Vulkem was for larger seals such as above the windows.
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07-13-2007, 06:07 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
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I'm doing rivets right now & have the same question as Gary. Do I use Parbond or Alcoa Gutter Seal? What's the difference between the two? I have the Parbond ordered--do I pitch it & get the new Acryl-R seal? I'm almost ready to begin the sealing & would really like to know!
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Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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07-13-2007, 06:40 AM
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#7
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Islay - 63 O.
1963 26' Overlander
Montreal
, -
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 581
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you may already done that but check for any missing rivet, check the vent gasket they are hard to get tight, awning attachment (all of them even the rail), antenna.
my 2 ct
__________________
Canadian Atlantic Unit Past President
Protect your dream from others and first yourself...
Few rolling wheels to make our planet a house.
A 1/5th of her that I own.
TAC# : QC-1
my blog
https://rvcampreview.com
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07-13-2007, 07:09 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
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I've read the caulk, sealant etc. thread through a couple of times. There seems to be a couple of opinions about the Parbond, Alcoa Gutter Seal & Acryl-R. I'm just wondering if one looks better than the other &/or works better than the other before I embark on the task of rivet sealing.
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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07-13-2007, 07:36 AM
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#9
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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My opinion is that the ParrBond product is best used in places where you don't need a good "clean" looking seam. For example, I used it to seal underneath the rub rail, where it can't be seen, and to seal the heads of a few pop rivets. It's specifically made to seal small openings. I have not used the Gutter Seal, but I have seen it in use a couple of times. Not very clean looking, either. I also have not used the AcrylR product. I saw some of it on a newer model Airstream a few weeks ago and was not impressed with it's ability to last over time (it was only a few years old and looked really bad).
I have used Vulkem in a couple of places on the exterior to seal seams (large openings). I have also used the Sikaflex product to seal the smaller seams. Both of these products look much better when cured (clean, smooth, etc) and are supposed to last a very long time.
Jim
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07-13-2007, 07:46 AM
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#10
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Moderator
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danesh
Can they do it? Or, should we switch to a new TT which is not AS? To be honest, AS looks and pulls great, but we have had it with the leaks. And, from all the posts that I read, it appears that evrybody has the same problem. Any kind of advise is appreciated. Cheers
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Trailers leak....and that means all brands. I can tell you stories about the SOB I bought new about 10 years ago that leaked when it was brand new. The dealer fixed that leak only for me to deal with leaks again in the following 3 years I owned it. I dumped it while it still looked nice and bought my first Airstream.
So while is disparaging to have a leak, it's a fact of life that we all are going to have to deal with. With any trailer finding the leak is always an issue. If you can't seem to find it, you might enlist the help of your dealer. They sometimes see enough that allows them to know where the typical leak sources are.
Good luck!
Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56 S/OS#15
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500
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07-13-2007, 07:46 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
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Thanks, Jim. That's exactly what I was looking for. Maybe I'll order some Sikaflex for the lower areas that I need to do.
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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07-13-2007, 08:39 AM
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#12
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,159
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We have had new leaks appear from time to time, and we deal with them. I am of the opinion that when an Airstream travels alot like our Lucy does, leaks develop from the streesses of going down the road. You hit bumps and pot holes. You drive through driving rain. Trucks pass and put stress on the Airstream. I believe that these stresses can cause some minor leaks. If a person wants to avoid leaks entirely, he should park it, seal it, and never move it. An SOB has the same problems, only worse.
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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07-13-2007, 12:43 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1974 25' Tradewind
Muscle Shoals
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 145
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I'm a fairly new poster and I keep seeing the term SOB used for TTs other thas A/S. What does that stand for?
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07-13-2007, 01:38 PM
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#14
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Islay - 63 O.
1963 26' Overlander
Montreal
, -
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 581
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SOB mean Some Other Brand
__________________
Canadian Atlantic Unit Past President
Protect your dream from others and first yourself...
Few rolling wheels to make our planet a house.
A 1/5th of her that I own.
TAC# : QC-1
my blog
https://rvcampreview.com
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07-13-2007, 03:44 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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Sob
Also means "Square ole Box".
And yes, vibrations will cause new leaks to appear even in the newest Airstream. At the factory they use the Acryl-R for all the small narrow seams, but I too think the Alcoa Gutter seal or Sikaflex looks better.
Recently there have been a few posters who've recommended a dealer maintenance trick of having their units pressurized through a vent like the bathroom fan, then applying soapy water to the unit to track down all the leaks. Sounds like it's something that a handy person could do with a leaf blower or the exhaust side of a wet dry vac and a funnel modified to fit over the hose.
I still work, but I full time in my Airstream - and the condo park where I spend the majority of my time may have the world's largest collection or ancient SOB's... fully as many of them qualify for "vintage" as the Airstreams do....
OK, the trick is that they've survived as well as an Airstream because they've never left the park. The owners have them put on the storage lot, then towed to a camping space whenever they are in town. Most are used a few weeks a year.... Oh and they ALL leak without ever being towed at more than 5 mph for more than 1/3 of a mile. There's one old Shasta that could be called "Our Lady of Caulk" it's got so much of the goo on it's roof and sides, and many of the others have had the fiberglass or tar coatings on the roof so often that it's running down the sides sorta like the chocolate icing on a German chocolate cake.
I'm betting any of them would fall apart if they were ever driven over moderately decent roads at highway speeds! At least mine leaked a tiny bit because I'd put 4000 miles on it in a year.
Paula
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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07-31-2007, 01:54 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Middletown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 589
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I was talking with the owner of a campground we were staying in back in May, he said fully 85% of the trailers on his campground won't move until they are hauled off to the dump. Looking through his CG, it was a wonder that many of them could even have been parked where they were without felling trees!
I'm kinda funny about camping, I want to GO to new places and SEE new things. To me, having the trailer sit in one spot, year after year, would be the most boring thing going. They are called TRAVEL trailers for a reason...
__________________
Bob Fowler
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
TAC - NJ-007
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09-08-2007, 08:32 PM
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#17
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Engineer Rich
1992 35' Airstream 350
Anchor Point, AK and San Antonio, TX
, Alaska and Texas
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 17
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Folks,
Anyone want to help me with a basic question...I have my first roof leak on my '92 350...it is a small one coming through somewhere about my rear a/c unit..I only get it in a real down pour...so I want to go up there and reseal, but I'm concerned about what I have to do to ensure I don't dent or wrinkle the roof...is there a secret to this?
Warm regards,
Engineerich
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