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Old 12-04-2009, 11:09 AM   #1
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Silverslug75's Avatar
1973 31' Sovereign
Vashon , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 39
Leaking in Seattle

After working all summer on my friend's '73 Sovereign Land Yacht interior the rains came. Jo Anne is back in Oklahoma for the winter so nobody was there to monitor the place. I found out there was a leakage problem when I stopped in to do more followup interior work. The seller who sold it to her this spring didn't mention the leaks. Most of the new bamboo flooring is ruined and also a little of the new wood veneer on the walls. Before I start over again we gotta find out how to fix the leaks. I have a tarp over it for now.
1. One big problem is the ceiling fan vent cover does not shut tightly. It appears that when the electricians removed the fan for us they bent the closing mechanism. It looks like that is a huge project to replace, isn't it? What's involved there? Can I do that without tearing the ceiling apart?
2. The floor near the door is soaked. Does that mean we need to replace gaskets? Is there a way to be sure if that really is the problem? Where do I learn how to deal with changing them?
3. There is standing water in the windowsills in the front, back, and in a couple side windows. How do I determine how the water is getting in around the windows?
4. Below the front windows there is significant water damage on the wall and on the floor. Can I be reasonably sure this is from the window or might it be from leaks from clearance lights, the windscreen visor connection points or what else?

I'm sort of panicked and unreasonable right now so if I'm not making sense please tell me. I will try to attach a picture of the bent vent mechanism so if anyone thinks it's fixable by bending it back that might help to make a determination. I have it wired shut already in the picture but when it's not wired there's about a half inch gap from being fully closed. Any help greatly welcomed. Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:16 AM   #2
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2002 25' Safari
Dewey , Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
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It is easily fixed. You need to remove the horizontal round bar. Take the two screws out of the screw drive, disconnect the two arms from the vent and work the bar out by removing the plastic clips that are on the bar.

Once the bar is out you will need a big hammer to straighten out the bar. Then assemble the pieces in the reverse order. Remember the orientation of the bar, you can put it back back wards. Also be careful around the switch, there should be a live 12 volt wire attached to it.

Once straightened, the vent should close correctly.



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Old 12-04-2009, 11:25 AM   #3
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kennethowens's Avatar
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
Get you some caulk and get on the outside of the trailer
and plug everything that looks like a place where water
can get in. Search and caulk diligently!!!

Pull the ruined flooring out soon so that the plywood
underneath can dry....
"Stop the bleeding, start the breathing..."
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:45 AM   #4
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hi slug

given your location and the weather forecast for the next 6 months...

move the trailer to a COVERED area for this repair.

then AS it dries out (you may need heat/fans and ventilation for this) you can begin PREPARING the outside.

simply applying sealant NOW, to an old wet grungy skin or vent/window seams isn't gonna do much

but make the leaks harder to FIND and fix correctly.

once protected from MORE moisture, you can begin cleaning, scraping panel edges and ALL of the shell holes (windows, vents)

and inspect the window and door gaskets.

IF they are 30+ years old, YES they should be replaced.

it's also likely the door isn't perfectly shaped/curved any more and may leak even with new gaskets.

then order some vulkem or sikaflex and some par bond and some acryl-r...

while u are waiting for the supplies to arrive, start reading HERE about the processes.

in makes NO sense to start again on the interior (except for ripping out) until ALL of the leaks are solved.

once the shell is prepped and gaskets replaced and all the external sealant REdone...

you can start trouble shooting SPECIFIC spots OR have the shell LEAK tested to find all the hidden issues.

no need to panic BUT the important thing right now is a DRY/covered/protected spot to park it,

and a tarp draped OVER it really won't provide working space or ventilation for drying.

IF you cannot move it, buy a 'tarp shelter/frame kit and erect it around and OVER the unit, with at least 3 sides enclosed.

IF there is NO electric or power to the location, that presents yet another challenge.

love vashon island, it's a special little place near the emerald city!

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:09 PM   #5
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,540
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Being a NW native and a four AS owner, I'd agree; blue tarp (WA State official flag) or a enclosure would be a given. Get some power to dry the little dear out.
"A settled wisdom, plus the itch to be elsewhere"
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:30 PM   #6
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1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Being raised in Washington and now living in Colorado....It maybe time to move to a drier climate!

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