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Old 07-14-2014, 08:06 PM   #29
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I don't know how you would define adequacy. My unit has and accuracy specs, but I don't know how you would verify them. For a start, % water by what? Weight, volume? saturation?

There are many of them out there, some remote reading with alarms, some just hand held, some are contact, some are ultrasonic. The less expensive direct contact ones are used for testing moisture content in lumber by woodworkers, among other things.

Mine is an inexpensive direct contact type with pointed pins. It has two modes that appear to change the calibration. One is for wood and other porous surfaces, the other for non-porous surfaces such as concrete and tile. It reads differently on the same test subject depending on which mode it is set in. I got it at Harbor Freight for about $14. I just use it for relative measurements, e.g. I'll test a piece of dry wood first and compare the reading I get in the trailer with that control sample. My daughter used one just like it on a wet laminate floor and read 70% while I am seeing 10% on my dry control and 8% on my trailer floor in the rear compartment.

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Old 07-17-2014, 07:30 PM   #30
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I picked up one at Lowes today. It is a General. They had pretty good reviews online. I checked against some wood that has been in the skhop and it read between 6 and 10. Is this about right?
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:20 PM   #31
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I have used a Sonin 50211 for about three years, inexpensive but works very well for checking our Airstream's floor. It is battery powered, the probe is on a cord that allows you to reach tight spaces and see the meter in front of you. I sharpened the probes so I can easily stick it right through the vinyl and hardly leave a mark.

Who cares about accuracy. I have found if the needle moves at all, you have a moisture problem in your plywood subfloor. If it moves half way, you are getting close to the leak. And if it pegs out, you are right under or next to it, or it's big.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:02 PM   #32
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Good that you all have tools to check for the issue, but since 1963 Airstreams have had this issue. That bumper hatch encourages the water to flow inward. As long as the sealant is good the water is kept at bay. Sooner or later, it will get through. Those fancy monitors will allow you to know it happened, but by then damage is occurring. The microbes that eat plywood are water activated and will lay dormant for years waiting for their next drink to wake back up and eat a little more.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:50 PM   #33
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Good that you all have tools to check for the issue, but since 1963 Airstreams have had this issue. That bumper hatch encourages the water to flow inward. As long as the sealant is good the water is kept at bay. Sooner or later, it will get through. Those fancy monitors will allow you to know it happened, but by then damage is occurring. The microbes that eat plywood are water activated and will lay dormant for years waiting for their next drink to wake back up and eat a little more.
Nasty little critters, aren't they.

From 2012 on Airstream started putting a tubular rubber seal between the bumper plate and shell. This is better than sealant I think and a lot better than nothing. We'll have to see how it plays out over time.

QUESTION FOR 2012 - 2015 AIRSTREAM OWNERS:

Has anyone had a leak coming through the bumper plate/shell connection? (You won't know it unless you probe the plywood subfloor with a moisture meter.) And are you sure that's the source; we had an apparent leak there but it turned out to be leaking at the window gasket directly above because of a loose latch.
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:38 PM   #34
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man, the dripped with sarcasm! The original poster owns a 2000. I missed the thread change to 2012-2015 owners.
Glad to know they finally made a change. I will go back to working on old trailers now and let you new guys have your thing.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:36 PM   #35
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I checked my 2012 when it was two years old and no leaks using a moisture meter at rear of trailer.

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Old 05-01-2016, 08:23 PM   #36
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Rear bumper Leak

It's so frustrating to view and now witness the dreaded leak in the back due to a systemic problem that AS/Thor continues to know about and do anything with. I am heartbroken that my AS has now succumbed to the floor rot due to the rear bumper leak. It's similar to the Zip Dee awning problem that plagues us due to a hickory dowel that lasts a few seasons and deteriorates with the addition of ......water. The dowel is from a vendor but the floor is all AS/Thor. Clearly there are alternatives that for $80K plus could be used instead of untreated plywood and God forbid, particle board. To an unsespecting buyer, (one who doesn't normally visit airforums.com), it isn't fair. I'm pissed off and I'm not taking it anymore.

Sorry, had to rant a bit.

One suggestion is that when the trailer is parked at home or at camp, make sure to lift the front end enough to be just above level. The engineering of the bumper is not good, but letting the water, due to rain, flow to the end of the back bumper solves a lot of this problem.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hometeam4 View Post
It's so frustrating to view and now witness the dreaded leak in the back due to a systemic problem that AS/Thor continues to know about and do anything with. I am heartbroken that my AS has now succumbed to the floor rot due to the rear bumper leak. It's similar to the Zip Dee awning problem that plagues us due to a hickory dowel that lasts a few seasons and deteriorates with the addition of ......water. The dowel is from a vendor but the floor is all AS/Thor. Clearly there are alternatives that for $80K plus could be used instead of untreated plywood and God forbid, particle board. To an unsespecting buyer, (one who doesn't normally visit airforums.com), it isn't fair. I'm pissed off and I'm not taking it anymore.

Sorry, had to rant a bit.

One suggestion is that when the trailer is parked at home or at camp, make sure to lift the front end enough to be just above level. The engineering of the bumper is not good, but letting the water, due to rain, flow to the end of the back bumper solves a lot of this problem.
I was at the Airstream factory a few weeks ago and watched as they installed a shell/body onto the floor/frame. They have improved this issue. They are now installing a rubber seal and using sealant. Not sure what year this started. This is only an improvement, not a fix, since seals fail with time. It still is a maintenance issue to be concerned with, regardless of year model.
I would like to see a re-design that eliminates the storage box lid intersecting the outer skin. That is the only way to eliminate this problem.
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:20 PM   #38
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Have a 05 bambi, same issue, water entering between bumper storage box and rear of trailer. Bummer. Had to spend a week disassembling rear of trailer, bed, heater, fuse box. Cut out old OSB floor and replaced w/marine plywood. Finally sealed joint with clear flexible sealant (NOT silicone). Seems to be the fix. Am astonished that the company (Thor) is operating such a sloppy assembly line. Inexcuseable for the price of these trailers.
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:14 PM   #39
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Like AW Warn above but more recently to the AS factory. Saw the rubber seal they were using. I was specifically looking to see if they've fixed things that have been issues for a long time. Not impressed. The rubber seal is a poor fix for the problem.
I think AS is simply a cash cow for Thor. Enough people without knowing enough keep buying them faster than they can make em. As long as it lasts past warranty.
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Old 11-14-2016, 02:04 PM   #40
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pesky rear end leak still after sealing up.

picture from my '72 Sovereign, I just realized that despite a lot of effort to seal this, water is still finding it's way in. I removed the trim piece and caulked the entire area.
i'm going to experiment and tape over the entire bumper / storage locker area and then see if wet still after next rains. Where else could this come from in theory ? any seams higher up the rear end ? or maybe the tail- light fixtures ? mainly damp around in the corners ... grrrrrrr
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Old 11-14-2016, 02:07 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
I was at the Airstream factory a few weeks ago and watched as they installed a shell/body onto the floor/frame. They have improved this issue. They are now installing a rubber seal and using sealant. Not sure what year this started. This is only an improvement, not a fix, since seals fail with time. It still is a maintenance issue to be concerned with, regardless of year model.
I would like to see a re-design that eliminates the storage box lid intersecting the outer skin. That is the only way to eliminate this problem.
wow.. hard to believe they haven't 100% redesigned by now, shame on them. I can understand my '72 having issues but recent models ???
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:59 PM   #42
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Same your insight, same disappointment at the AS 'fix'

Nick
The caulk looks pretty decent. You may have water getting in elsewhere. All around the perimeter of the window frames, and lights may need attention. Especially if old sealant around them. You'll want to scrape out as much old still as you can and apply some new sealant. Similar if you have a rear compartment access door. Also check that the seal on the compartment seal actually seats all the way around when closed. If you have a rear awning seal along the top of the awning rail to skin.
The real bumper leak fix requires more disassembly back there.
Don't forget sealant where the frame runs under the shell.
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