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Old 01-12-2013, 02:32 PM   #1
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2008 28' Safari SE
San Luis Obispo , California
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I need Help for Leak in rear of 2008 28' Safari

My unit is an SE with a rear bed. I am baffled by the wet floor in the rear bedroom. I checked out the Surflo valve and plumbing and roof. They all seem OK. I removed the bed and carpet and ran a water spray on the back for a long time. Water started to seep in under the U channel all across the rear. Is the water coming in from the rear bumper plate? Both ends of the U channel that goes across the floor, under the piano hinged access door are open and water comes in from there also. We appreciate any help.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:49 PM   #2
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Different model, different year, but.......

"Is the water coming in from the rear bumper plate?"
.......yes.

At least ours was.....along with rear clearance lights, tail light housings, license plate bucket and rear window gutter.

MORE INFO>>


Bob
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:31 PM   #3
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2008 28' Safari SE
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Thank you. How can I get under the U channel that sits on top of the plywood? There are 2 large bolts and 4 heavy duty screws that go through the channel into the plywood. I took them off but I am afraid that the rest of the body sits on the plywood on top of the U channel. The next set of bolts are about 6 inches farther inside the channel and the only way to get to them is to cut part of the inside skin open. It seems to me that the only way to lift the channel enough to squeeze some silicone under it is to take off the inside skin and pry it up. Looking at it from the outside, it appears that there is a plastic sheet in between the back horizontal plate and the U channel. Again, lifting the channel is just as difficult from the outside. Are there any plans that show exactly how the various aluminum sheets and channels are placed in the trailer? Has anyone been able to fix this rear leak satisfactorily without taking out a mortgage on the rig? Thank you for your suggestions.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:32 PM   #4
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2003 25' Classic
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Thumbs up

Here is a post/diagram....I didn't read the entire thread, but there may be more info pertaining to your model.

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Old 01-13-2013, 11:00 PM   #5
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Bob, the link is corrupted - atleast for me.

Bob, thank you for the reference. However, all the link does is flash with a picture of the rear of an AS (no pun intended) and then it disappears, so I have not been able to open it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finmatt View Post
Bob, thank you for the reference. However, all the link does is flash with a picture of the rear of an AS (no pun intended) and then it disappears, so I have not been able to open it.

Try this link to the entire thread....
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ybe-56674.html


Here's the pic....



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Old 01-14-2013, 10:31 AM   #7
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If that picture is accurate, Airstream now (2012-) places a tubular seal in that leak opening, although that opening is not nearly as wide as shown. I would think you could do the same effect with sealant, providing the sealant bead is wide enough, 1/8" or more, and flexible enough so it does not pull loose with the movement of the trailer going down the road.

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Old 01-14-2013, 10:42 AM   #8
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I have thought about drilling drain holes in that bumper plate so the water can't pool there. But that's not reversible and may allow water and crud thrown up from traveling on wet roads to foul the area from under the trailer. I think that plate functions as a deflector of this stuff.

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Old 01-14-2013, 11:07 AM   #9
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Question cause of leakage?

As the owner of a fairly new AS (2004) this thread is somewhat distressing. It is a shame that you have leakage on a 4 to 5 year old trailer. In your opinion what do you think might be the cause for this problem? Is it poor design, poor workmanship, poor quality control? Has the trailer ever been pulled over rough roads that might cause the problem? I have read several threads referencing this same problem. It would seem that by 2008 Airstream would have been able to solve this problem. I like my Classic, but problems like this really make me question my decision the own it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:22 AM   #10
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It is clearly a design error. The company now installs a seal there. Owners of earlier models are sealing this, with some reports that it does the trick.

The only way you will know if this is leaking before it causes damage to the subfloor is to probe through the vinyl or carpet floor covering with a Moisture Detection Meter as part of a regular inspection cycle. Make it part of your maintenance schedule.

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Old 01-15-2013, 12:38 AM   #11
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2008 28' Safari SE
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Thank you Bob and Doug. It sure seems that I will need to put a seal in the gap on top of the bumper plate. I also wonder if it would be a good idea to run a bead of something under the bumper plate where it meets the chassis. I think that running in wet weather might suck some of it into the plywood flooring edge. Would the Vulcan 116 be the best sealer to use? On the other hand another way to fix the leak might be to do sheet metal work and add a new skirting. That would be a lot of work, I’m sure. I am also waiting for a service rep from AS to call me back with their ideas. I’ll keep you posted on that. Thanks again
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:48 AM   #12
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Hi, some Safari owners removed the moulding that is just above the bumper storage area and sealed where the body sits on top of the bumper plate. Although mine has no signs of leaks, I sealed where the moulding sits on the bumper plate and at both ends of the moulding at the frame. For sure you need to seal this area one way or the other before the wood starts to rot. On my trailer the moulding sits tightly on top of the bumper plate, but some have about a 1/4" gap.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:31 AM   #13
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My 66 has the exact same design as the above diagram, so I guess "they" do still build things like they used to !
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:37 AM   #14
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Fin,

Our Classic has a different style bumper.
I sealed both edge's of the molding and drilled two drain holes in the bumper cover at the low points.
Note the area right in front of the drill bit, at least a 1/2" gap at both ends of the bumper.


Bob
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