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Old 07-21-2011, 07:23 PM   #15
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Wow, I feel better... I guess. I'm chasing leaks in a 25 year old AS, that sucks but I see people doing the same in units just a few years old... WOW! Excuse my language but WTF? Is there a quality issue? Does Airstream read this stuff? Stuff that makes me think "Hmmm..."
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:24 PM   #16
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As far as a DIY pressure tester system, does anyone have an idea if I reversed both Fantastic Fans if that would generate enough pressure to do a leak test?

I figure they move a lot of air since we here a whine when they are on until we open a window. Even opening the vent in the bathroom or shower stops the whine which tells me they are moving a fair bit of air.

Thoughts?
I use a leaf blower into a modified hatch cover on my boat, soap and water, finds all the leaks above the waterline.

Jim
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:53 PM   #17
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I use a leaf blower into a modified hatch cover on my boat, soap and water, finds all the leaks above the waterline.

Jim
Can we see pictures? I'd rather test my unit once per year without having to pay the dealer to do it.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:35 AM   #18
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I have this image in my mind of someone attaching a really powerful blower for a pressure test and the skylight, fans, A/C and windows blowing off the trailer.

Gene
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:46 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jim Clark View Post
I use a leaf blower into a modified hatch cover on my boat, soap and water, finds all the leaks above the waterline.

Jim
While I have heard many people try this method, the leaf blower as far too small to provide enough pressure inside the trailer for an extended period of time. The best way is to use a Seal Tech 430 R, which is what I use, and what most dealers use. It does find the leaks, and the fan is powerful enough that I have pressurized 34 footers without problem.

Steve
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:20 AM   #20
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While I have heard many people try this method, the leaf blower as far too small to provide enough pressure inside the trailer for an extended period of time. The best way is to use a Seal Tech 430 R, which is what I use, and what most dealers use. It does find the leaks, and the fan is powerful enough that I have pressurized 34 footers without problem.

Steve
Steve,

Wouldn't the volume of air be the critical factor, seems 2-3 psi would be enough to find most leaks. Just wondering.

Bob
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:49 AM   #21
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While I have heard many people try this method, the leaf blower as far too small to provide enough pressure inside the trailer for an extended period of time. The best way is to use a Seal Tech 430 R, which is what I use, and what most dealers use. It does find the leaks, and the fan is powerful enough that I have pressurized 34 footers without problem.

Steve

I used the leaf blower on my 34 footer also mine just happens to be floating. No doubt in my mind that dedicated equipment will do a better job, but if you don't have a Seal Tech 430 R in your garage you may have to borrow a additional Black and Decker leaf blower from guy next door. Just saying. It is funny most of the sailboat guys are worried about to much pressure, but if a leaf blower can blow up my boat I don't think I want to be on the water in it.

If you do want to try the leaf blower do some searching and you will find may instances where it has worked. Of course as all things on the internet do at your own risk.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:02 AM   #22
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Can we see pictures? I'd rather test my unit once per year without having to pay the dealer to do it.
I don't have the pictures of my boat during leak testing but this is where I learned of the the method.

Sailboat Hull and Deck Rep
air - Google Books
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:03 PM   #23
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Wet frame cross member. Rusting!

We have had some big rain. I am generally dry in my 72 Ambassador 29. Tonite, looking for raccoons, I put a light under the coach and noticed a wet cross member that is part of the middle section where the holding tank is. I drained the holding tank it was air tight and seemed leak free. My AC is the actual Dayton from 1972 that vents water underneath the coach and is dripping fine. Now what could be causing the wet crossmember? Maybe the Dometic's small drain? I remved the clearcoat and have buffed about 80% of the trailer. I think, I must have a water runway from a seam that ends up on this crossmember. It is still solid, but I full-time and there is concern. ANY IDEAS?. I have ruled out the sink. One of my Vista windows has a leak that has to drip between the walls and may gather at the crossmember, but it must travel down to the main frame and over to the center. I did notice losing vulkem when I used the clearcoat remover. I am rambling, but I thought everything was dry underneath. I am raised on nice concrete pads and supported according to suggertions of the Guru's of this group. Help! This crossmember forms a box with the axles in the center with the freshwater holding tanks. My rear cross member is dry. It has to be the vista window leak migrating to the bottom center. I am going to have to get this attended to before the integrity is effected. Comments please-Mrwaterway
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