Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-15-2010, 04:58 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
Mike&Ali's Avatar
 
1964 22' Safari
Dayton , Ohio
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 29
How exactly do you seal exterior seams?

Last weekend I used Alcoa Gutter seal to seal the seams on my 64 Safari. I used masking tape to form a clean line, applied the sealant, and let it dry. I then used a utility knife to cut the sealant at the tape line. It was a major failure. The seams are so small in most areas that there was little sealant left. In other areas it came out completely with the removal of the tape.

So my question is....How do you seal the exterior seams (and make it look good). I have some Tempro but concerned that it will darken over time and really stand out. Most of my seams are OK, but I want to seal it up right (on the interior and exterior) so I get all my leaks. I've already gone over most of the interior seams with the tempro and hit all my windows with the Gutter seal.

Thanks in advance for your help.
__________________

__________________
Mike&Ali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 05:23 PM   #2
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike&Ali View Post
Last weekend I used Alcoa Gutter seal to seal the seams on my 64 Safari. I used masking tape to form a clean line, applied the sealant, and let it dry. I then used a utility knife to cut the sealant at the tape line. It was a major failure. The seams are so small in most areas that there was little sealant left. In other areas it came out completely with the removal of the tape.

So my question is....How do you seal the exterior seams (and make it look good). I have some Tempro but concerned that it will darken over time and really stand out. Most of my seams are OK, but I want to seal it up right (on the interior and exterior) so I get all my leaks. I've already gone over most of the interior seams with the tempro and hit all my windows with the Gutter seal.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Par bond is usually used for small seams.

Hold the tube about 45 degrees from vertial and squeeze the tube at the same time your moving the tube along the seam.

Sort of like you apply tooth paste to a tooth brush.

For larger seams, Vulkem is normally used, but with a caulking gun.

Same process, 45 degrees and move the tube as you squeeze the trigger. Don't cut the tube tip any larger than you want the seams to be.

That's all there is to it. No masking tape needed.

You might perhaps practice on something before you approach the Airstream project.

Andy
__________________

__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 05:41 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Melody Ranch's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,960
Images: 78
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
I use Par Bond. It is silver, does not darken and flows into the seams nicely. Use it right from the tube and technique wise...I push the tube along the seam not pulling it. This leaves a nice 1/8 inch trail at the seam and nicely contoured because of the tube lip following the flow...ie. the push technique.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 05:48 PM   #4
3 Rivet Member
 
SpaceEgg's Avatar
 
1959 24' Tradewind
The Grass Capital of the World , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 174
Images: 6
dental water pik

I feel your pain. I just sealed all the seams on my trailer for the first time ever and it took me quite a while. I figured out one slick system though, and here it is.

-Obtain a water syringe, the kind they give you after some form of oral surgery - I got mine for free at my local Safeway pharmacy (get a few)

-Cut the syringe opening at a slant not quite halfway down the shaft from the tip.

-Put your sealant into the plunger area. I used Quad 100% clear polyurethane from Home Depot ($5), it was very nice to work with. Stayed moist long enough to work with, then dried quickly.

-Apply to one full seam between panels, then go back with a wet finger and make microscopically sure the caulk touches both aluminum panels - One hole in your armor is the kiss of death. All water needs is a trickle.

I was surprised how small of a diameter of caulk you really need to seal the panels, and how little caulking I actually used when applying this method.

It works though. I live in Oregon (where all your rain hangs out until it's ready to find you) and had a maddening time with four phantom leaks this spring when I first got my trailer. Not anymore.

More importantly, I can't see the places where I used the dental syringe. I'd send you photos but I'm at work. Maybe later if you are interested.

Good luck. It's a slow, tedious process. But it's nice to be dry.
__________________
SpaceEgg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 06:22 PM   #5
Rivet Monster
 
wahoonc's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,174
Images: 40
It might help to wipe the seams down with denatured alcohol prior to putting the Parbond on. I use a technique similar to what Melody Ranch described. It also needs to set up for 24-72 hours before you attempt to do much of anything with it. The main chemical carrier in it is Toluene.

Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
wahoonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 06:28 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,363
Images: 14
I used the gutter seal using the same technique as Melody - tape thing sounds like way too much work. I'm going to try the alcohol next time - I know it works really well on wood.

Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 08:12 PM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
SpaceEgg's Avatar
 
1959 24' Tradewind
The Grass Capital of the World , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 174
Images: 6
goo gone

I also cleaned the seams, but I used Goo Gone. I love that stuff. Citrus-based, not too bad for the environment, smells like oranges, and destroys anything adhesive. You must then clean the seams with soapy water. Overall process on one seam doesn't take much more than it takes for water to dry.
__________________
SpaceEgg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 08:14 AM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
Mike&Ali's Avatar
 
1964 22' Safari
Dayton , Ohio
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 29
Smile

Great advice. Giving it another shot this weekend. I've got some Par Bond left so going to use that after I clean the seams - again. : )

Thanks for all the help!!!!!
__________________
Mike&Ali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 08:13 PM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
Mike&Ali's Avatar
 
1964 22' Safari
Dayton , Ohio
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 29
Sealed all the exterior seams today. Used Par Bond and worked much better than my tape method. Would prefer cleaner lines, but looks better than I thought it would.

Now I just need some rain to test it properly.
__________________
Mike&Ali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 09:00 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
68 TWind's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,420
Tape works well with vulkem (Tempro). You can make the seams very narrow or wider if needed by adjusting the masking tape. After applying the sealer smooth it down with your finger tip and push it into the seams. REMOVE the tape immediately after smoothing. If you let the vulkem skim over for just a little while it leaves a little ridge when you remove the tape. If you remove the tape immediately the vulkem will "self level" and the seam will be smooth. My TW was leaking like a sieve and I had big gaps in some seams and this worked much better than the gutter seal or parbond for me.
__________________

__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
68 TWind is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Polish or Seal Seams First? Roadrunner Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 8 07-09-2010 12:32 PM
How to seal window joints & seams prior to painting? nick6930 All Argosy Trailers 10 03-17-2009 05:18 PM
Seal seams, then polish? (59 18'er) Jephellis Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants 1 07-29-2008 04:46 AM
Ice in exterior seams putback Ribs, Skins & Rivets 8 07-06-2008 01:01 PM
Parbond or Gutter Seal for Exterior Seams??? mwmoss Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants 8 02-23-2005 09:36 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.