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Becky B. · 09-22-2006, 04:27 PM

I have done everything I have been suggested to do by all the previous threads, and I still have water coming in my streetside storage locker. I have put a new gasket in, put new gaskets on the vents on the roof & recaulked everything up there, recaulked the door itself, recaulked the rub rail, and tried to get the door to shut more tightly. That seems to be my problem, I think. When looking from the inside (under the bed) out, I can see the light of day. Does anyone have any more suggestions on how I can get the door to shut more tightly? The floor is rotting more & more, since it seems to rain twice a week here!

garthbf · 09-22-2006, 04:40 PM

from the photos it looks like the gap is at the top so I am thinking that the new gasket is not right. Are you using this kind?
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/45308-gasketentr.jpg

If you are using this kind then it is incorrect...
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/005s-gasket.jpg

thanks to inlandrv for having these photo on their website.

Becky B. · 09-22-2006, 05:05 PM

I did use that gasket. I ordered it from the guy holding it! Here's a picture of the install.

Jim Clark · 09-22-2006, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

I did use that gasket. I ordered it from the guy holding it! Here's a picture of the install.

The good part is you know where the leak is at. Have you checked to see if the door is warped or the hinge is out of aligment. It appears you have an aligment problem and not a gasket problem.

Jim

Becky B. · 09-22-2006, 06:06 PM

Well, I just went outside & bent the hinge out a bit. I'm afraid of breaking it! Looks a little closer. We're going to have rain again tonight, so I'll find out tomorrow if it made any difference.

Jim Clark · 09-22-2006, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

Well, I just went outside & bent the hinge out a bit. I'm afraid of breaking it! Looks a little closer. We're going to have rain again tonight, so I'll find out tomorrow if it made any difference.

I also wonder if your gasket is on backwards. I will look at mine in the morning and see which way it is facing. I have a 2005 so it may not be the same.

Jim

Becky B. · 09-22-2006, 07:01 PM

I'm pretty sure I put it on in the right direction--I looked at the ones I hadn't done yet. I think the main problem may be the gap at the top. You must be right about the hinge or the door being warped. I took a screwdriver & tried to bend the hinge out a bit so the bottom comes out more. Before that, I bent the lock latch to try to get it closer. If it still leaks, I'll have to try to bend the hinge a little further. It makes me a bit nervous, though.

dwightdi · 09-22-2006, 07:11 PM

I think I would glue some non-porous gasket material to the lip of the door frame to solve the problem. The door is misaligned but you might break something before you get it right. It may not be the most elegant solution but I would vote for utility over looks.

PizzaChop · 09-22-2006, 08:27 PM

I'm trying to remember but it seems that I took the latch assembly apart or something to make mine tighter on the Overlander. It was almost two years ago so I'm not sure exactly what I did. There may have been some bending involved as well. I have the other type of gaskets on mine. (Which I don't understand, as the '72s and '73s look pretty much like the '76.)

Happycampers · 09-23-2006, 05:48 AM

Close the door spray some soapy water around the outside of the door, have someone go inside, (if you have an air compressor) blow air around the inside of the door and watch for bubbles. That will tell you exactly where the leak is top bottom or sides. Then close the door again with out the lock latched and push very hard closing the door and hold it and repeat the above process. If the leak is around the top of the door it might just need adjusting. other wise you will at least know where the leak is. If you find the leak and there is no adjustment and it is almost sealed you can put some transmission fluid on the gasket, that will make the gasket swell, that will work but it will also shorten the life of the gasket.

Ganglin · 09-28-2006, 06:16 PM

Becky,

You seem to have the right gasket for your year according to Inland and the links that Garthbf was good enough to supply. You might think about going with the prior year gasket with your situation. This one that Garthbf provided
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/005s-gasket.jpg

We just did the same door on our 71 and had to play with it to see which way it should go on. Decided the idea would be to stand it up as you see in the link with the tallest part facing inward - so glue it out on the edge of the door - not to the door lip. The idea being that the tall edge will contact the inside edge - any water that wicks in will drop into the "U" channel of the gasket and run to the bottom. Your seam should be on the bottom obviously.

In the meantime you may (if your waiting for new gasket) want to seal the door edge with blue painters tape to stop the leak (no sticky stuff left over removing it). Another thought is to tape plastic - using aluminum tape - to form a sort of bucket under the leak inside to prevent further damage. May want to blow dry the wood first to prevent mold from forming under the plastic.

I have two orders of this type gasket and likely have a spare piece long enough to try - can mail it to you early next week if you want to try it.

Good luck with your leak - nice shine on that baby.....!!

rebel beck · 09-28-2006, 07:16 PM

Becky,
As mentioned before it looks like an alignment problem, we have a 75 and the same door always falls off when I'm putting something back there. If I don't put it back just so (hold my mouth right) i have the gap just like yours.
By the way your trailer looks great with the polish job, I hope to start on mine soon.

steelbird312 · 09-28-2006, 07:44 PM

Becky,
I agree with Ganglin partially, especially about gluing the seal to the edge of the lip instead of back towards the 'L'. Also, it is very possible that the door FRAME is what is bent instead of the door! I have seen them where they were, possibly by being bent sloppily by the press when it was made. Getting at the inside, (take the matress off and fold up the bed base) and then make sure the frame is equal distant from the door all around, and if not, it's time for a little peck, peck, peck work on the door frame until it is uniform all around, and close to the frame itself.
Good luck

Becky B. · 09-28-2006, 08:11 PM

It actually hasn't rained since I posted the last time. I've pushed the door top really hard & tried to adjust the hinge so far. I looks quite a bit closer. I'm off work tomorrow & might just try a hose to see if it's tight. Thanks for the advise! I'll mess with the frame if need be too. I just put the gasket on, so I hate to rip it off & put something else on that's not like the original, but if all else fails.....I'll have to take Ganglin up on his offer to try his kind of gasket! Thanks & I'll let you know what happens.

Becky B. · 09-29-2006, 03:22 PM

Well, I went out & checked the gasket position as suggested here. I did have it on wrong. I didn't glue it to the outside of the lip, but to the "L" section. I spent the afternoon removing the gaskets from the 3 doors that I've done already. I'm officially a pro at that now! I put on new gasket in the proper position and I have no more light shining through! YEAH! Now I just have to do the main door & the back door & that job is finished. I guess I'll have to order more gasket, since I used the stuff I had for the door. Oh well, this project certainly does cost the $, but what good is it if you can't have fun & frustration! Thanks for all your help & suggestions. I'll let you know if it holds out the rain!

Becky B. · 10-17-2006, 06:06 AM

Latest rain report--I still have a leak inside the streetside storage locker. It isn't as bad as it was before the gasket change, however. I'm still REALLY frustrated & can't seem to find the leak. I just recaulked the window to the left of the door & that wasn't it. I never caulked the strip above the tires (because it doesn't look like it ever was caulked) & wonder if anyone else w/an Overlander has that strip caulked? It doesn't look like it's actually attached to the body in any way, so what would be the point? If anyone has any new ideas for me, I'm open. I'm about ready to say forget it & just let the leak continue! So far, I've changed the vent gaskets on top, caulked all vents on top, put in a new airconditioner & caulked all of that, caulked the door, caulked the window, regasketed the door, caulked the beltline & rubrail. What more can I do?!

wahoonc · 10-17-2006, 06:41 AM

Becky,
Got any loose or missing rivets (on the Airstream!

) remember you have the internal wall frames that can cause water to run quite a ways before it shows up inside.

Aaron

Aerowood · 10-17-2006, 07:05 AM

Tape the door all around the opening with vinyl tape and apply artificial rain (garden hose) to verify that the door is indeed the source of the problem. No need to chase ghosts. If it is still leaking, it sure sounds like what has been mentioned already, that the upper hinge on the door is not in between the hinge stops on the door frame and causing the door to protude from the top only. Have you pulled the door completly off to see if there is any debris in the upper door frame hinge to cause the door side hinge not to fully engage the frame hinge?

Wabbiteer · 10-17-2006, 10:06 AM

My hatches' hinges were assembled with aluminum rivets with steel mandrels that have rusted and are showing orange stains down hatch skin so I am being forced to remove the hinges anyhow, so, I have been toying with drilling the hinge piece from the hatch and installing a 1/16" or 3/32" shim underneath to force hatch deeper into frame when closed. Since the locking tang is snug as it is now there would have to be an adjustment on its keeper too...