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Old 09-29-2006, 04:22 PM   #15
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1964 17' Bambi II
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Well, I went out & checked the gasket position as suggested here. I did have it on wrong. I didn't glue it to the outside of the lip, but to the "L" section. I spent the afternoon removing the gaskets from the 3 doors that I've done already. I'm officially a pro at that now! I put on new gasket in the proper position and I have no more light shining through! YEAH! Now I just have to do the main door & the back door & that job is finished. I guess I'll have to order more gasket, since I used the stuff I had for the door. Oh well, this project certainly does cost the $, but what good is it if you can't have fun & frustration! Thanks for all your help & suggestions. I'll let you know if it holds out the rain!
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:06 AM   #16
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Latest rain report--I still have a leak inside the streetside storage locker. It isn't as bad as it was before the gasket change, however. I'm still REALLY frustrated & can't seem to find the leak. I just recaulked the window to the left of the door & that wasn't it. I never caulked the strip above the tires (because it doesn't look like it ever was caulked) & wonder if anyone else w/an Overlander has that strip caulked? It doesn't look like it's actually attached to the body in any way, so what would be the point? If anyone has any new ideas for me, I'm open. I'm about ready to say forget it & just let the leak continue! So far, I've changed the vent gaskets on top, caulked all vents on top, put in a new airconditioner & caulked all of that, caulked the door, caulked the window, regasketed the door, caulked the beltline & rubrail. What more can I do?!
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:41 AM   #17
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Becky,
Got any loose or missing rivets (on the Airstream! ) remember you have the internal wall frames that can cause water to run quite a ways before it shows up inside.

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Old 10-17-2006, 08:05 AM   #18
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Tape the door all around the opening with vinyl tape and apply artificial rain (garden hose) to verify that the door is indeed the source of the problem. No need to chase ghosts. If it is still leaking, it sure sounds like what has been mentioned already, that the upper hinge on the door is not in between the hinge stops on the door frame and causing the door to protude from the top only. Have you pulled the door completly off to see if there is any debris in the upper door frame hinge to cause the door side hinge not to fully engage the frame hinge?
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:06 AM   #19
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My hatches' hinges were assembled with aluminum rivets with steel mandrels that have rusted and are showing orange stains down hatch skin so I am being forced to remove the hinges anyhow, so, I have been toying with drilling the hinge piece from the hatch and installing a 1/16" or 3/32" shim underneath to force hatch deeper into frame when closed. Since the locking tang is snug as it is now there would have to be an adjustment on its keeper too...
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:06 AM   #20
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What about the gaskets associated with your TV antenna?
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:08 PM   #21
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Replaced the gaskets for the TV antenna. No more water in the handle. The door is riveted on at the hinges. Afraid to take it off! I tried the hose at the door trick & got no water in the door that way. It's coming from somewhere else. I'll have to look over all the rivets, I guess. I know one is missing, but it's on the opposite side toward the front. But a question--if a rivet isn't completely centered, like a sliver of a moon on the side, would this cause a leak? I did see one or two of these up there. Would I just fill them with caulk?
The caulkmaster
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:25 PM   #22
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rivet

What you are looking at on the rivet is what we in the industry call a "happy face", it is caused by the person shooting the rivet not having the rivet gun square to the surface or tilted. Although unsightly, if the rivet is bucked properly it should not leak. Most professional aircraft metal workers remove them before anyone sees them, because they cause for rejection during final inspection and ridicule by coworkers.
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