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Old 04-19-2016, 08:55 AM   #15
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Captain tolley on the exterior. Replacing the rivets is just as easy too.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:12 AM   #16
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Also be aware that water can travel a long ways from the actual leak site before it finds it's way into the trailer. That's why treating everything above and to either side of the leak is important. Our windows were the biggest leakers when we got our trailer, but we had a couple upper skin ones too. We sealed outside and inside, and have had only one since (this spring). I think we've got that one stopped now too. We used Captain Tollys, sikaflex, and Vulkem.

Kay
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
OUTSIDE IS BETTER. Lazy way - if you have access to two box trucks, park one on each side of the Airstream and make 2 X 10's into a laydown ramp over the roof. It's also possible to rent a few sections of scaffolding quite inexpensively, OR just use a nice long ladder with a brace (2x4 covered in carpet about 2.5 feet long - to keep the rails from marking up the side of the Airstream. I find the reach across too far for my short self.

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on every single rivet. Mark the ones where the liquid disappears inside, and re-treat them a day later. 99% won't leak the second time. On the seams, clean out all of the old sealant, then use Trempro or Sikaflex to reseal. For a NEAT seam, use two parallel strips of masking tape or painters tape, one on each side of the seam. Apply the caulk, finger smooth, wait briefly for the caulk to START setting, then remove the tape.
Great tips - I'm getting ready to reseal for first time, and am learning. We used Sikaflex 715 to install a new Maxim skylight , and are trying to determine the best sealant for the rest of everything. How much Capt Tolleys would you recommend? Seems it would go fast. We used acetone to clean when removing the old caulk on the skylight, so I guess that would be good for the rest(?) Do you recommend the Sikaflex 221 (since it's grey) and which Trempro - the 635 or 636? And are these also good for around tail lights, bumper, eyebrows above windows, or do you use something else for any of those areas?
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:51 PM   #18
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I also used Sikaflex but the RTV 7000 series when installing the maxim skylight. decided not to use any screws in side of curb as that is a good adhesive and sealer.

used,or are using capt tolleys as well. I just stuck the tip on the gaps and let it flow moving it like a caulking gun. It would run down the gap around windows soaking in cracks as needed. I would wipe the excess off best as i could but some slipped by. the places it sucked up the most i would make a mental note and go back to that one after a while to let it suck up more.

when i replace the skylight i would use a sharp wood chisel and remove the curb edge old caulking and resealed with dicor. i ran a nice bead on top of curb with the rtv7000 and put new skylight on getting it centered and let sit.

I went inside and wiped the excess silicon off the inside of the curb letting it sit overnight. the next day I tried to push it off and after using some good muscle power decided it was good without screws.

took a 200 plus mile trip this weekend and no leaks, no flyoff etc.. plus they look good for sure.



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Originally Posted by asv2 View Post
Great tips - I'm getting ready to reseal for first time, and am learning. We used Sikaflex 715 to install a new Maxim skylight , and are trying to determine the best sealant for the rest of everything. How much Capt Tolleys would you recommend? Seems it would go fast. We used acetone to clean when removing the old caulk on the skylight, so I guess that would be good for the rest(?) Do you recommend the Sikaflex 221 (since it's grey) and which Trempro - the 635 or 636? And are these also good for around tail lights, bumper, eyebrows above windows, or do you use something else for any of those areas?
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:05 PM   #19
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You are bold going without the screws on side curb. That must be a good sealant. Glad nothing flew off or leaked! For Capt Tolleys, did you use 2 oz. or 8 oz.?
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:47 PM   #20
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the silflex rtv7500 not 7000 is a good sealant/adhesive. I use it a lot so I am aware of it strength to hold stuff. Now if i was to get a pry bar and some wood i could pop it off but short of that ,, it on there till its need to come off which will not in my lifetime.

i get a 8 oz bottle of capt tolleys and man that stuff is the deal. went out today to finish up scraping off sealant on the top rail between the white and non white metal. got a nice bead of dicor on it and good to go.

also did some CTing around the top windows and they did suck some stuff in.

it is good stuff to use around windows, doors etc on the exterior if the OEM stuff is in decent shape. If not you need to scrape and redo.



Quote:
Originally Posted by asv2 View Post
You are bold going without the screws on side curb. That must be a good sealant. Glad nothing flew off or leaked! For Capt Tolleys, did you use 2 oz. or 8 oz.?
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Old 06-23-2016, 12:08 PM   #21
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Thanks Carl, I'll go for the 8 oz. CT!
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:06 PM   #22
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I'm starting to do the fully monty on a 19(57) 13 panel and I have all of the interior skins off. We had a good rain here today: 17 leaks and counting. It seems like every seam has a wet spot or a drip. Can these things really be sealed up from the inside?
Yes, absolutely! Since you have all the interior skins off, it's a perfect opportunity to seal the seams & rivets from the inside. Once your restoration is complete, you will have missed this opportunity as you will likely never have the interior panels off again. We used Vulkem and since it's on the inside of the exterior panel - nobody will ever see it so you can spend less time doing it "neatly". I would (and we did) still re-seal the exterior seams too while you're at it.

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I drilled the rivets out of every seam on the trailer, cleaned, injected sealant, and then re-installed the rivets. It was a lot of work but it doesn't leak anymore.
Kip is an over-achiever! Gotta love it...


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Old 06-24-2016, 07:13 AM   #23
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i found if you cut just a small bit off tip and dont squeeze the bottle you get a perfect amount of liquid coming out. The lower the liquid get in bottle the better.

If i had to do it again I would take top off and pour almost 1/2 to 3/4 of the liquid into another bottle first.. it make the process easier to control.

be sure to have a couple paper towels or cloth towels to catch excess.. no big deal it dries clean.

use it like a caulking gun,, ie 45 angle to the crack and just run it down the seam especially around windows. try to run bottle along the side of trailer not 90* to it.. make it easier to control flow and you can see..

I have a 10.5 extendable ladder that is the bomb on this type project. I just lean it up on side of trailer and work.. ( I weigh 195 lbs) or put against the awning covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great for getting on roof as well.. I used it to replace 2 skylight and redo the rail caulk on top between white and non white metal.

you will be suprized to see how that stuff suck into the gaps..



Quote:
Originally Posted by asv2 View Post
Thanks Carl, I'll go for the 8 oz. CT!
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Old 06-26-2016, 07:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
i found if you cut just a small bit off tip and dont squeeze the bottle you get a perfect amount of liquid coming out. The lower the liquid get in bottle the better.

If i had to do it again I would take top off and pour almost 1/2 to 3/4 of the liquid into another bottle first.. it make the process easier to control.

be sure to have a couple paper towels or cloth towels to catch excess.. no big deal it dries clean.

use it like a caulking gun,, ie 45 angle to the crack and just run it down the seam especially around windows. try to run bottle along the side of trailer not 90* to it.. make it easier to control flow and you can see..

I have a 10.5 extendable ladder that is the bomb on this type project. I just lean it up on side of trailer and work.. ( I weigh 195 lbs) or put against the awning covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great for getting on roof as well.. I used it to replace 2 skylight and redo the rail caulk on top between white and non white metal.

you will be suprized to see how that stuff suck into the gaps..
Thanks for all the great tips! They'll really help cut down on the trial and error part! I'm thinking of getting the 8 ounce and a 2 ounce of the CT to be sure and have enough, and 2 tubes of sealant, probably Sikaflex 221. We used Sikaflex 715 for installing a new Maxim skylight, and it's worked well so far. Does the CT have an expiration date like sealants do?
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:31 PM   #25
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Just my 2 cents. I used about 3 oz. of CT to treat all rivets on our 29' Ambassador. I used Acryl-R for panel seams and some window edges. Good luck on your sealing adventure.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:20 PM   #26
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Which Sikaflex?

Thanks Dennis,

I'll drop the extra 2 oz. of CT from the supply list! Glad you mentioned Acryl-R - I considered it previously, so I read up on it more and will add to the arsenal.

My rough plan is to use Sikaflex 715 for anything on the roof (vents, etc.) & 221 for the remainder (non roof) where there are larger gaps, but I'm wondering if Sikaflex 505 UV (I read it replaced Sikaflex 721 UV) would be better than 221 since 505UV is "highly weather resistant and has excellent UV resistance" according to the Sika website.
On one hand 221 is a non-SAG polyurethane sealant and cures to form a durable elastomer that is "resistant" to aging and weather and "elastic" whereas 505UV is an STP (silane terminated polymer) which has a faster cure (I took highlights of the description from Sika website.) I have a feeling the faster cure 505 UV might be better against the weather (lots of sun in North FL) but may not have as much flex as the 221, so maybe it's a trade off as to which is best. I'd love to hear if anyone has used these and how they have held up.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:31 PM   #27
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One thought on the Acryl-R: it takes a few days to really "skin over" so it isn't sticky to the touch or transfers to skin or clothes. It also shrinks quite a bit so a 3/16" bead will be much thinner when dry or cured.

Demnis
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:54 AM   #28
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The sikaflex 221 dries pretty quick, overnight for a really good set.
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