First Leak

[KJRitchie]

I believe I have the fiberglass rear bumper. I didn't know that had a lip behind the rub rail. Overtime it rains I notice water collects on the rear right side of the pull out tray. I've coated the inside of the tray with a gray bedliner material. The last photo shows the top of the rubrail. The top caulking is representative of what its like along the whole length of the bumper rubrail.

Is that clear tape at the top of the window below common with Classics? I'm tempted to remove it,

I suppose I can attempt to reseal the window and see if it leaks again.

I also found moisture presence in the door threshold just to the right of the door. There is a 2" long plastic cap between the door threshold and the kitchen stove cabinet. Right above this section is the lower door hinge.

Since owning this AS since 2013 I've checked for water leaks at the rear dinette every time I've been in rail. It seems coincidental after seeing the window leak I've discovered the floor is now wet.

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Yes, there's a lip there, so just concentrate on the rub rail top...looks like it's time.

Door hinge is a possibility. Tape off and Parbond around it...but I'd suspect the eyebrow over the door first.

[KJRitchie]

What is the best way to clean the black grime off the gray caulk? Mineral spirits on an old tooth brush?

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Well, you want to remove the old calk with plastic tools (HD paint dept has a variety). Then clean with mineral spirits. Before reapplication of sealer, clean the mineral spirits off with an automotive paint prep solvent (any auto parts store). If you're just going to clean some of the sealer that looks intact, I wouldn't use mineral spirits. I think it will degrade the whole seal. Just soap and toothbrush.

BTW- I'd leave the plastic protective tape.

[KJRitchie]

If you look at the photos showing plastic tape it looks like it has shrunk and pulled away from the corner allowing water to flow into the cavity. The dirt residue remains. The tape also covers the caulking on the top frame of the window. I think I will have to remove the ends of the tape up to the body panel joints.

I've got the Airstream sealant kit that has a tube of gray and white Adseal, black Silaflex and a can of Acryl R with the pump applicator. Should I use the Acryl R between the rub rail and bumper? Can I use the Acryl R on the door hinge? Its suppose to be thin.

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Use the Acryl-r for thin seams. I think the rub rail gap is too wide. Probably the gray adseal is best there.

[KJRitchie]

Floor is drying out. When I probe the wood with the Sonin it appears dry but if I push harder on the probe then it hits wet wood again. Probing under the shell its still registering wet. I beginning to wonder if the leak is really up north unless I've got multiple leaks from the rear window only one of which is visible. with the rear window open and looking above to where the original leak was coming from I see a slight gap between the inner window frame and inner shell.

Closer inspection of the upper awning rail seems to show good seal. I remember at North Rim while it was raining the awning deployed didn't seem to keep water off the top of the window. Rain would run down and travel along the whole length of the top window where the clear tape is located.

I've placed an order for Capt Tolley's, Parbond, Termpro and about 10 disposable syringes.

Trailer is going back to covered storage today or tomorrow. I've cut away the vinyl under the dinette seats.

The plan is to work top down. Reseal all three clearance lights, reseal window perimeters. I may have to cut the tape off the top window seal to redo it but it seems in good condition. I couldn't get a caulk gun in that space due to the awning in the way.

The door frame trim at the bottom on the hinge side looks like it needs resealing. Maybe my hinges are OK. Since the gap between the hinges and shell are thin I may use Acryl-R on the hinges. I'll reseal the tail light housings.

Last I'll reseal the top of the rub rail. The fiberglass bumper pools a lot of water along the rub rail when its raining. If non of the above fixes the water leak I have to assume water is getting in between the rub rail and subfloor.

What a pain. Every time my Airstream seems to be performing well something else comes up.

Kelvin

[KJRitchie]

Started working on sealing the rear window area. I had to move the AS back to covered storage as it s too hot at home on the front driveway. I removed the clearance light directly over the area where the rear window leaked. There was no evidence of water infiltrating under the housing. First photo shows the light after removing the mounting srcrews. The second after cleaning off the old caulk that surrounded the base. The other clearance lights seem to be sealed OK. Used Aluminum Parbond around the base and screw holes.

I cleaned up the window frame seams, taped them off and applied the same Parbond. Then tried to remove the caulking off the top of the bumper rub rail. After what seemed more than and hour I got it ready to caulk. I was going to use Adseal but left the caulk gun at home so used a tube of Parbond.

Cleaned up the corner between the door frame and lower rub rail and applied a short bead of Parbond after applying masking tape. Very time consuming trying to remove the old caulk. Most of it is still very tacky after 8 years since manufacture. I found a plastic caulking tool and it worked kinda. Blobs of blackened caulk all over the place. Tried to use mineral spirits to clean off remnants but physical scrapping with the tool worked better. Spent all day on this project.

I didn't have time to apply Capt Tollys Cure to the rivets around the rear awning and the window frame. I will attempt that prior to next weekend when we are scheduled to go out.

I didn't get any more photos as my hands had caulk all over them.

After I apply the Capt Tolleys I'll run the water hose over the rear and cross my fingers.

Kelvin

[KJRitchie]

I went back to the AS in storage after work and took these photos of the rear window corner. Looks like I need to apply another bead of Parbond on these joints.

Kelvin

[KJRitchie]

In preparation of resealing the top rear window I was able to remove the rear awning. Zip Dee has manuals that show the process of loosening the tension on the awning then you just unbolt the awning arms and remove two screws from the awning rail then slide out the awning.

The caulking on top of the awing rail looks a lot better than the choking on the top of the window. I'll probably start with the window first.

When up on the ladder to check the seams where the roof and the rear end caps are attached I noticed one rivet on the street side that looked fishy. See the last photo. There seems to be a hole next to the rivet. Too bad its not on the same side as my window leak. I'll have to fill it in.

Unfortunately, its too cold and windy today to start the reseal project. I need a weekend of 60F days.

Kelvin

[Wayne&Sam]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

The caulking on top of the awing rail looks a lot better than the choking on the top of the window.

The solar guard hinge at the top of the front middle window was the source of a persistent window leak on my '07. That awning rail is in a similar position, so check it carefully.

[KJRitchie]

I would like to remove the clear vinyl tape between the window and the awning rail, clean everything up, reseal then apply a new tape. I can't see this vinyl tape in the Zip Dee parts list so I've sent them an email.

If I can't get this thick clear vinyl tape can anyone recommend a source?

Thanks

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Kelvin,
Yes those rivets are not suspicious, but definites. I have confirmed several of those in various windows as leakers. Don't be concerned with the water showing up elsewhere. It runs and travels horizontally in most unpredictable ways. There's logic to it, but you can't see the logic because of hidden structures, insulation, etc inside the walls. You have definitely found culprit (s). Maybe not all, but it is certainly a good definitive start.

[dznf0g]

You could buy an automotive clear "bra" and cut it to your dimensions

[KJRitchie]

Got the trailer home today getting ready for a trip and a heavy thunderstorm rolled through. So far all the work previous in this thread hasn't fixed the issue. Not only is the original leak still there running down the rear window screen on the curb side but there is a leak running down the rear window on the street side too. I'll be getting all the roof vents resealed at the end of August so hopefully the leak will get fixed. It takes some time for the leaks to show up on the rear window so maybe its the Fantastic fan the skylight.

Can't reproduce it when I wash the trailer, needs a steady stream of water for 1/2 an hours.

Kelvin

[KJRitchie]

Update on the rear window leak. Still not fixed.

As part of the renovation I had recently had done was to resolve the rear window leak. A&P worked on it, replaced the window gasket, left it in the rain and sprayed it down and was confident it was fixed. However, not the case after leaving it in a rain storm at my house. The leak seems to have shifted to the street side of the rear window, water drips from the interior frame onto the top of the bug screen then runs down in a couple of slow streams one above the street side latch and an inch from the vertical bug screen frame.

I had the trailer back at A&P this weekend to get a new Dometic 15k unit installed. They checked the clearance lights above the leak area and discovered the mounting screws on the clearance light were rusty. He sealed the holes, put a dab of sealant on the lens mounting screw and ran a thin bead of sealant around the base of the lens. He did this for all the rear clearance lights. Then he drilled out the awning rail rivels one by one, sealed the hole and put on a wider head rivet with sealant in each of the five mounts.

On the way home at a campground it rained heavily in the early morning and the rear window still leaked on the street side of the bug screen.

Its back at the shop for more investigation. So frustrating.

Kelvin

[KJRitchie]

Got a call from Paul today. He was able to replicate the leak. He discovered the clearance lights on the street and center line were the culprit despite resealing the edges of the base and lens and the lens screw. He pulled the street and clearance and found evidence of leaking on the base and on the wires entering the trailer. There was rust and corrosion and the two clearance lights needed to be replaced. He will replace all three with LED versions and retest for leakage.

I'm amazed that despite sealing all these lights they still leaked. I'm going to have him check all the clearance lights.

Kelvin

[cwf]

Interesting.. our 34' has had a strange to locate leak. Each thing I change/repair moved the problem around.. front street side floor was damaged.. repaired...

So, the 'last' one I can't seem to find is on the street side near the bow.. you only find it by feeling between edge of gaucho and wall.. It has stumped me for 2 years now..

I probably need to start my own thread...

[KJRitchie]

My leak had to be localized in the end cap assembly. After looking at the couple of Airstream assembly videos, one which showed a Classic 25fb, the leak was coming from above. Paul at A&P even used a SealTech system to try to find the leak. He discovered one from the lower part of one of the rear curved windows but didn't show up on the clearance light. He was consistently able to reproduce the leak by applying water to the lights.

Hopefully, the retest is successful.


Kelvin

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by cwf

Interesting.. our 34' has had a strange to locate leak. Each thing I change/repair moved the problem around.. front street side floor was damaged.. repaired...

So, the 'last' one I can't seem to find is on the street side near the bow.. you only find it by feeling between edge of gaucho and wall.. It has stumped me for 2 years now..

I probably need to start my own thread...

I've been having a similar leak (same trailer as yours) since I bought the trailer 3+ years ago. I can wet the roof around the front fan with a hose spray for hours, no leak. Then a light rain with a little wind for 15 minutes would get an occasional drip in the front street side corner window.

I looked under the front street side corner light where the wire comes through the skin. I had looked at it before and there was nothing obvious to me. It was caulked solid around the wires and looked to be in good shape. I decided to remove the old and re seal it even though it looked good. When I did it was obvious that the caulk was not bonded to the skin where there was a water stain at the top edge. I resealed around the wires and all of the fasteners. It did not leak in the last rain. Problem solved, I hope!