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Old 07-10-2015, 06:51 PM   #15
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Got home from work had dinner and took the moisture meter to work over the dinette area. Found moisture near were the shell meets the subfloor registered on my Sonin. I can feel the moisture under the street dinnette where the vinyl has peeled back. This is opposite side from the window leak. No moisture registering more than a few inches from the shell boundary so looks like I've caught it early.

I guess the rub rail over the bumper will need to be pulled and resealed.

Do I need to pull the dinette out and pull out the vinyl to get it completely dried? I would really like to treat the subfloor with an epoxy during this process which would mean pulling the vinyl.

I may just find someone to do the twin bed conversion and seal the rear bumper area, treat the floor and lay new vinyl. Get it over and down with. Reseal the windows, awning mounts and all the roof seals.

I've read many threads about rear bumper rub rail leaks in 2000 era Safari and Iinternationals but haven't read of any Classics having this problem but it appears the problem is in all models of this vintage. I've checked the floor before after rains and never found any moisture. Maybe I missed it or maybe its a recent development.

Kelvin
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:33 AM   #16
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I left a table fan on last night to help the dry out. This morning started to look at the rear window exterior. The top seal looks pretty good. With the awning deployed I observed what seems to be clear tape applied between the awning and window frame. Notice on the 3rd photo it appears water has gotten in between the tape. This is approximately up hill from where the water is trickling down the screen. The last photo shows the curbside corner of the rear window. I would say its due for a reseal.

Kelvin
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:44 AM   #17
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Next I checked for moisture under the dinette seats and table. I removed the wall/floor trim plate and cut the vinyl back. You can see in the photos the vinyl backing is stained. Luckily the leaking hasn't gone too far and the wood appears solid still. Since the moisture starts under the curb dinette, then under the table and to the street side dinette I'm sure this is due to bumper rub rail leaking.

I've placed a floor fan to blow on the areas. Luckily today is sunny, high 91F I've got the Fantastic Fans blowing with the entrance door open. Will let it dry out then take it back to covered storage.I will refrain from using the trailer when there is rain in the forecast until I can get this repair done. I pulled the phone line jack plate and the insulation is dry.

I'm glad I found this early before any damage occurred but its still disappointing.

Kelvin
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:49 AM   #18
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Kelvin, that tape is there to keep the awning from chafing the skin while rolled up. It should be on all your awning windows. It is completely normal to see water staining at the seam areas where you have them.

I do note some suspicious rivets in the window rail just below your tape. In pic #1, there is the small head rivet that isn't completely bucked. Some of mine were actually overlapped. Captain Tolleys should fix those rivets.

Because of the curve of the rear of the AS and the gap between the awning rail and skin, and you say that's where the drip is, I'd be suspicious of those rivets and, I believe the Right Clearance light is about in line with that area as well.

You sealer does look like it may be time to remove and re-seal, but I wouldn't be in a hurry to remove the clear protective tape, as it is sandwiched between the skin and awning rail..
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:54 AM   #19
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Does your Classic have the fiberglass center bumper? If so, the fiberglass and end caps have about a 3/4" rolled lip that extends up under the rub rail. It is doubtful that your water entry is at the bumper, other than at the joints between the end caps and center section. However, the top of the rub rail is always suspect. But before I jumped in and removed the rub rail ( big job), I would reseal the top of the rub rail and just work some parbond up under the rail at the bumper joints.
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:55 AM   #20
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I think is is entirely possible that your floor water is all coming from "up north".
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:12 AM   #21
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I believe I have the fiberglass rear bumper. I didn't know that had a lip behind the rub rail. Overtime it rains I notice water collects on the rear right side of the pull out tray. I've coated the inside of the tray with a gray bedliner material. The last photo shows the top of the rubrail. The top caulking is representative of what its like along the whole length of the bumper rubrail.

Is that clear tape at the top of the window below common with Classics? I'm tempted to remove it,

I suppose I can attempt to reseal the window and see if it leaks again.

I also found moisture presence in the door threshold just to the right of the door. There is a 2" long plastic cap between the door threshold and the kitchen stove cabinet. Right above this section is the lower door hinge.

Since owning this AS since 2013 I've checked for water leaks at the rear dinette every time I've been in rail. It seems coincidental after seeing the window leak I've discovered the floor is now wet.

Kelvin
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:27 AM   #22
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Yes, there's a lip there, so just concentrate on the rub rail top...looks like it's time.

Door hinge is a possibility. Tape off and Parbond around it...but I'd suspect the eyebrow over the door first.
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:28 AM   #23
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What is the best way to clean the black grime off the gray caulk? Mineral spirits on an old tooth brush?

Kelvin
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:39 AM   #24
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Well, you want to remove the old calk with plastic tools (HD paint dept has a variety). Then clean with mineral spirits. Before reapplication of sealer, clean the mineral spirits off with an automotive paint prep solvent (any auto parts store). If you're just going to clean some of the sealer that looks intact, I wouldn't use mineral spirits. I think it will degrade the whole seal. Just soap and toothbrush.

BTW- I'd leave the plastic protective tape.
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Old 07-11-2015, 12:57 PM   #25
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If you look at the photos showing plastic tape it looks like it has shrunk and pulled away from the corner allowing water to flow into the cavity. The dirt residue remains. The tape also covers the caulking on the top frame of the window. I think I will have to remove the ends of the tape up to the body panel joints.

I've got the Airstream sealant kit that has a tube of gray and white Adseal, black Silaflex and a can of Acryl R with the pump applicator. Should I use the Acryl R between the rub rail and bumper? Can I use the Acryl R on the door hinge? Its suppose to be thin.

Kelvin
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:33 PM   #26
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Use the Acryl-r for thin seams. I think the rub rail gap is too wide. Probably the gray adseal is best there.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:27 PM   #27
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Floor is drying out. When I probe the wood with the Sonin it appears dry but if I push harder on the probe then it hits wet wood again. Probing under the shell its still registering wet. I beginning to wonder if the leak is really up north unless I've got multiple leaks from the rear window only one of which is visible. with the rear window open and looking above to where the original leak was coming from I see a slight gap between the inner window frame and inner shell.

Closer inspection of the upper awning rail seems to show good seal. I remember at North Rim while it was raining the awning deployed didn't seem to keep water off the top of the window. Rain would run down and travel along the whole length of the top window where the clear tape is located.

I've placed an order for Capt Tolley's, Parbond, Termpro and about 10 disposable syringes.

Trailer is going back to covered storage today or tomorrow. I've cut away the vinyl under the dinette seats.

The plan is to work top down. Reseal all three clearance lights, reseal window perimeters. I may have to cut the tape off the top window seal to redo it but it seems in good condition. I couldn't get a caulk gun in that space due to the awning in the way.

The door frame trim at the bottom on the hinge side looks like it needs resealing. Maybe my hinges are OK. Since the gap between the hinges and shell are thin I may use Acryl-R on the hinges. I'll reseal the tail light housings.

Last I'll reseal the top of the rub rail. The fiberglass bumper pools a lot of water along the rub rail when its raining. If non of the above fixes the water leak I have to assume water is getting in between the rub rail and subfloor.

What a pain. Every time my Airstream seems to be performing well something else comes up.

Kelvin
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:42 PM   #28
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Started working on sealing the rear window area. I had to move the AS back to covered storage as it s too hot at home on the front driveway. I removed the clearance light directly over the area where the rear window leaked. There was no evidence of water infiltrating under the housing. First photo shows the light after removing the mounting srcrews. The second after cleaning off the old caulk that surrounded the base. The other clearance lights seem to be sealed OK. Used Aluminum Parbond around the base and screw holes.

I cleaned up the window frame seams, taped them off and applied the same Parbond. Then tried to remove the caulking off the top of the bumper rub rail. After what seemed more than and hour I got it ready to caulk. I was going to use Adseal but left the caulk gun at home so used a tube of Parbond.

Cleaned up the corner between the door frame and lower rub rail and applied a short bead of Parbond after applying masking tape. Very time consuming trying to remove the old caulk. Most of it is still very tacky after 8 years since manufacture. I found a plastic caulking tool and it worked kinda. Blobs of blackened caulk all over the place. Tried to use mineral spirits to clean off remnants but physical scrapping with the tool worked better. Spent all day on this project.

I didn't have time to apply Capt Tollys Cure to the rivets around the rear awning and the window frame. I will attempt that prior to next weekend when we are scheduled to go out.

I didn't get any more photos as my hands had caulk all over them.

After I apply the Capt Tolleys I'll run the water hose over the rear and cross my fingers.

Kelvin
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