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Old 06-05-2014, 12:14 PM   #1
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Do I caulk these?

Not sure what these strips are called but do I caulk these strips? Are there rivets under these strips that can fail? Thanks in advance!

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Old 06-05-2014, 12:22 PM   #2
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Yes, I use Parbond on the top edge of the top belt molding. It is a very tight seam fit between skin and molding, so a thin Parbond seal works well

I use Tempro on the top edge of the bottom molding as it is a wider fit.

Clean, dig out old sealer well and tape off for a clean look. I don't seal the bottoms of the moldings in order to let any water present a route out.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yes, I use Parbond on the top edge of the top belt molding. It is a very tight seam fit between skin and molding, so a thin Parbond seal works well

I use Tempro on the top edge of the bottom molding as it is a wider fit.

Clean, dig out old sealer well and tape off for a clean look. I don't seal the bottoms of the moldings in order to let any water present a route out.
Thanks! What did you dig the old caulk out with?
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:57 PM   #4
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Mostly plastic tub silicone and grout removal tools available at big box HD or Lowes. I follow up with Brake cleaner to get bits and residue off.
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #5
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1993 25' Excella
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yes, I use Parbond on the top edge of the top belt molding. It is a very tight seam fit between skin and molding, so a thin Parbond seal works well

I use Tempro on the top edge of the bottom molding as it is a wider fit.

Clean, dig out old sealer well and tape off for a clean look. I don't seal the bottoms of the moldings in order to let any water present a route out.
Would using Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure first do get inside the molding be a good idea AND then use Parbond/Tempro? I have a bottle sitting here.
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:48 PM   #6
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I am a big fan of Tolley's....but not for the moldings. There are large cavities behind the moldings and the Tolleys will just run through and make a mess. Tolleys should only be used in very small crack situations where the capillary action will fill small voids.....like rivet heads.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:32 PM   #7
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I am a big fan of Tolley's....but not for the moldings. There are large cavities behind the moldings and the Tolleys will just run through and make a mess. Tolleys should only be used in very small crack situations where the capillary action will fill small voids.....like rivet heads.
Thanks. If I had not read your reply, I would have found out the hard way!
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:52 PM   #8
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The mothership don't caulk the brltlines, but that don't mean it's not a good idea
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:58 PM   #9
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Not sure about the "newer" trailers, but I just removed the upper belt molding and found the top skin properly overlaps the bottom skin, so caulking at this point, at least for my trailer, is superfluous.
The rub rail on the bottom is a different matter however. I removed it when I pulled the belly pan and found the standard AS construction method of tucking the upper panel UNDER the banana wrap. Search the forums, you'll see lots of comments on this.
Based on my personal experience, I would recommend as part of your attempt to waterproof that you remove the rub rail all the way around, clean up the wrong-way joint and caulk the heck out of it. Removing the rub rail is pretty easy, just use caution not to twist or bend it out of it's original shape. Then replace the rub rail, caulk the top gap as you show in the photo, and seal the rivet heads. You should also consider caulking along the rear end of the trailer where the bumper is located. I don't think there's much else you can do in this area other than caulk. Do a search "rear end separation" for an education.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:33 PM   #10
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The mothership don't caulk the brltlines, but that don't mean it's not a good idea
The mother ship sealed my upper belt with what looks like acryl-r at time of build. I have only had to touch up a couple areas. Lower belt was sealed at build with vulkem.

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Old 07-20-2015, 11:23 PM   #11
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Thanks to everyone on this thread ...

The rubber inserts on the molding of my 75 is long gone and "creatively" replaced with blue paint, which allows me to see the normal rivets with no goop in them. There are also a few areas where the molding flops as well as most of the top side of both need caulking. Scary thinking about the bottom skin to banana peels.

But maybe if proactive enough I'll get lucky and not have to replace any subflooring.
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:23 AM   #12
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A question ...

These moldings are solely for decoration or do they serve some purpose?
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:51 AM   #13
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A question ...

These moldings are solely for decoration or do they serve some purpose?
On my 1975 it covers the rivet line of the shell to the running gear and also the belly pan to the shell.....
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:04 PM   #14
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Just did this. I took all mine off in my quest to be super sealed. The uppers are indeed superfluous, IF things are all in good shape. BUT.... I have NO confidence in the manufacturing talent (or care) when building these. The seam under the upper belt line was buck riveted right through the aluminum extrusion on the inside of the exterior skin. The extrusion is probably for creating some rigidity, but is also for some interior wall stud attachment points... Nonetheless, EVERY solid rivet went through the middle of the extrusion. You probably cant envision what I'm saying, but the extrusion is hollow in the middle and thats not the proper way to do solid rivets. The problem is that the rivet cant be bucked because it doesnt come through far enough. The boss was surely gone the day mine went together and the workers said "oops- better cover that up"....

Additionally, the seam where the endcap, meets the fuselage seam from the upper sheet to the lower sheet is a 4 way overlap. If you look right behind the awning arm, under the belt trim you'll see what I mean. The overlap is very convenient place for water to sit on the belt trim and seep right into the hole it creates.

SOOO...... in summary... DryFly has the right idea. Its only 50 or so pop rivets and you can polish behind there while you're at it. Seal the heck out of it and you wont regret it.

The lower rubrail has similar issues. The overlap is backwards, but remarkably, its not a major water infusion point. The reason is that the shell sides extend below the c channel in most spots. Even when it doesnt, the water just continues downward. That said, I'm still sealing the heck out of it as I reinstall.

Mine are all off, so I'm applying a generous amount of sealant behind. But I dont see why a nice thick bead on top wont do the same thing.

Seal them all. You would be surprised where the water gets into the cracks.
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