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Old 07-21-2015, 06:39 PM   #15
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Today I removed a section of the lower trim from the door to the front. PO must have hit something or something hit the rig.

The bottom front corner weld of the door jamb is cracked (amazing things you notice with more time), and the bottom mount of the awning flopping.

Pulled it all apart until I got to straight stuff (slightly wet inside down low from rain yesterday but the plywood is dry with no stains), straightened the bent parts, gooped it up with a bead of Vulkem replacement, and starting from the solid front Olympic riveting my way back to the door.

Best I could tell the original seam between the wall skin and the banana peels is a hope and a prayer dependant on the molding.

Many aspects so well engineered, and yet others makes me wonder what in the world were they thinking? *yawn*
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:29 PM   #16
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We used closed end rivets to replace our rails when we put them back on. They won't leak like the pop rivets that were used originally. Vulkem the holes first to seal. When we put the belly pan on, it went under the shell, but we had to lap the banana wraps over the shell, and we vulkemed them to seal which is how they were originally done.

Kay
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:41 PM   #17
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Dont mean to hijack the thread, but can I pose a related question svp!?

On our 2005 Classic 30, the plastic cover on the rear bumper seems to have a reverse slope so that rain water lies on top of it up against the rub rail that meets the top of the bumper cover.

That interface is not caulked and because the water sits there I have often wondered if I would be wise to run a bead of sikaflex along where the bumper cover meets the rub rail.

Anyone do that?


Brian.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:37 PM   #18
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrgtrakr View Post
Today I removed a section of the lower trim from the door to the front. PO must have hit something or something hit the rig.

The bottom front corner weld of the door jamb is cracked (amazing things you notice with more time), and the bottom mount of the awning flopping.

Pulled it all apart until I got to straight stuff (slightly wet inside down low from rain yesterday but the plywood is dry with no stains), straightened the bent parts, gooped it up with a bead of Vulkem replacement, and starting from the solid front Olympic riveting my way back to the door.

Best I could tell the original seam between the wall skin and the banana peels is a hope and a prayer dependant on the molding.

Many aspects so well engineered, and yet others makes me wonder what in the world were they thinking? *yawn*
Believe it or not, the skin overlap to the banana isnt THAT big an issue on mine. Although its totally reverse engineered, the water just goes down. Its low enough that it doesnt go in, even if it leaks. Yes, I did formerly have a Carefree awning, which bolted through the rubrail into the floor, and a wind accident mustve boogered up the awning brackets. The holes were wallered out and perhaps could have been a water intrusion point. But even then I really dont think it was the source of puddling.

I've got an empty shell now, and many points around the camper have exposed edges of the subfloor. It doesnt leak there. It just doesnt come inside- the water just runs down. When I finish attaching my belly wrap and banana's, it will just run down.

My WAY bigger problem by the door was where the endcap meets the fuselage. The awning rail works like a gutter. When my trailer is pitched forward, the water runs down the gutter, and streams down the seam of the fuselage and the endcap. The river of water finds its way in. It drove me nuts. I tried sealing a section, then another section, then I finally drilled out every rivet from the belly up and over the awning rail and pumped sealant in between, then re-bucked it all up. Now I'm water tight.

I'm convinced this is the majority of the problems on more campers than I can imagine. I've seen tons with rotted wood inside the door- commonly at the endcap seam across the floor to the other side.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
We used closed end rivets to replace our rails when we put them back on. They won't leak like the pop rivets that were used originally. Vulkem the holes first to seal. When we put the belly pan on, it went under the shell, but we had to lap the banana wraps over the shell, and we vulkemed them to seal which is how they were originally done.

Kay
Crazy enough, NONE of my pop rivets leak through the belt trim or the rubrail. I thought for sure these are leak points. They are all exposed, I have not sealed any however I did put sealant on the back of the belt trim before re-attaching. The rivets themselves are not sealed.

I'm in FL and it rains EVERY day....
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:56 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Dont mean to hijack the thread, but can I pose a related question svp!?

On our 2005 Classic 30, the plastic cover on the rear bumper seems to have a reverse slope so that rain water lies on top of it up against the rub rail that meets the top of the bumper cover.

That interface is not caulked and because the water sits there I have often wondered if I would be wise to run a bead of sikaflex along where the bumper cover meets the rub rail.

Anyone do that?


Brian.
Nope. The fiberglass center and the plastic ends have a lip that rolls up under the rub rail. Standing water on top just sits, drains into the bumper trunk, or just evaporates. The only potential route to the shell is a leak at the seam between center section and ends. I would never seal the bottom of the rail.
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