I learned a neat trick for application of caulk from the installer of my custom fireplace surrounds. He carefully masks both sides of the joint to be caulked after carefully scirbing the surround to the wall. He opens the caulking tube by drilling a small hole about 1/8" in the end of the point rather than cutting at an angle. The combination of drilling a small exit hole in the tip and having the masking tape in place allows you to force a little sealant into the rather small crack and then smooth off the top. Then remove the masking tape before the caulk dries. The surrounds look like the grew from the wall.
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Royce (K0RKK) and Karen AIR# 3913
the other thing that helps when applying Vulkem is to use a bit of mineral spirits on a clean cloth, or your finger to smooth it out. Similiar to what you would do with bathroom caulking and water. I got a smooth smaller bead around windows and doors doing it that way.
The aluminum caulk still looks better to me, but it does not harden the way the Vulkem did.
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I've been unable to find Vulkem in my area (no one has heard of it at Home Depot), so I'll order it from Airstreamdreams or other online supplier. Does anyone know where to get Parr Bond--either at a store or online?
We ordered some from Inland RV and it was shipped and here in less than a week. Andy is great to do business with. Wasn't able to find it here at the RV dealer.Getting another order ready for spring. Hello to another Canuck.. Annie
Originally posted by PeterH-79MH carefully remove the side on the skin and place it 1/16" from the frame for a perfect fit.
I personally like Tremco's Dymonic Polyurethane Sealant. It sticks like thunder to aluminum and clearcoat and never dries hard. It is more liquid than vulkem and not so gritty. The color is a grey/aluminum. I bought it at the local glass company for $5.25 for a 11 oz tube. After forcing it into the seam using a caulk gun, I use a rag with paint thinner to smooth it out prior to removing the tape.
Peter did you use Dymonic FC or just plain Dymonic?
That is a great price, I have been quoted 11.00 a tube in Columbia.
Von will be in the Austin area in Feb or March.What is the name of the glass shop?
Did you get a trade discount or any such?
Did you also use Vulkem on the more isolated and larger areas?
Which Vulkem?
#116 is the most common and the cheapest.
Peter did you use Dymonic FC or just plain Dymonic?
That is a great price, I have been quoted 11.00 a tube in Columbia.
Von will be in the Austin area in Feb or March.What is the name of the glass shop?
Did you get a trade discount or any such?
Did you also use Vulkem on the more isolated and larger areas?
Which Vulkem?
#116 is the most common and the cheapest.
Vulkem 616 is what I used on critical areas.
It would work on the windows as well, just a little harder to work with. I can report, that after two years my windows still look like I just did them yesterday.
But why not use the factory recommended Parbond?
The Glass company in Austin is called Binswanger Glass (512-454-7755). Last time I checked they didn't have the grey only black.
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Once you figure out how to do it,
the instructions actually make sense.
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WBCCI Member at Large
I have a tube of Tremco Vulkem but can't find a # anywhere on the tube that would show if it is 616 or 611. the tube is gold in color and I found that the first tube I used was grittier than I liked. I don't want to order any of that stuff anymore. Any idea of which Vulkem it was?
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
A good way to seal the exterior seams ,whether segment or side sheet seams, is by using an oil can(Plew's makes a great one for this) the small tip will let you apply various sealers neatly. Cool Seal makes a silver roof coating that works well in an oil can. Also Airstream sells some products that will work also(I believe they have some on their web site.
Caulking tubes with the wider tips should be used over the top of windows,around roof vents ,skylights , roof antenas etc.
Sika -Flex has a gray & white caulking that has a very smooth finish when applied and is used on the newer Airstream Products. Vulkem works well also.
Always inspect the sealer on your trailer for signs of alligatoring or cracking. Flexing of the Airstream shell can over time cause interior caulked seams to crack, this makes keeping the exterior seams sealed a MUST. This should be a yearly ritual at the very least. I like the idea of the tape for neatness as well as preventing scratches that may happen while sealing. Always check all gaskets and rubber seals , the UV rays will cause them to crack over time. A good vinyl protectant is also beneficial.
I just read a thread in which a member said that one should never use silicon sealer on aluminum - that it adheres tenaciously (I'll drink to that) and is not waterproof - or words to that effect. In working on my old Bubble I found a lot of silicon sealer and I have deep, abiding hatred for the stuff. Even the 3M silicon sealer remover does very little good on stuff that's years old.
However, the guy I've hired to help with the metal work loves the stuff and refers to my Vulkem as overpriced, aluminum colored silicon. I would really appreciate an explanation on what Vulkem actually is vs what the silicon really is so I can argue with the arrogant youngster. When I wasn't looking he really globbed the silicon on the underside of the frame to seal off the wheel wells. Arrrhhhhhh.
Jo Ann
If you do a search from the main page for "vulkem silicon" you will find several good threads about why not to use silicon sealant on aluminium. Vulkem or Parbond are the way to go.
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Patience is a virtue, and I have no time for impatient people.
Originally posted by smallfry I would really appreciate an explanation on what Vulcem actually is vs what the silicon really is so I can argue with the arrogant youngster.
Jo Anne,
The Vulcem is a polyurethane based sealer. It has a slower total cure and it is DESIGNED for the sealing of metal to metal panels. It has a superior adhesion to the aluminum and will flex and move once set. The Silicone will not flex and move to the same extent and does not adhere to the aluminum since the product was NOT DESIGNED for the application. On a home that is sitting still (most of the time) it is a wonderful product, but not in most sealing situations on our RV's.
I have used Vulcem to seal more than just seams or when I have installed upgrades. It bonds to everything and cures to a pliable texture that truly seals. Yes it is more costly that silicone, but I am a firm believer in doing things once. BTW if the youngster is an employee tell him if he wants to do it his way it's free labor Your way is the only way you will pay for the work, even if you have to pay more for materials. This is a classic pay now or pay later issue to me.
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Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
In politics, absurdity is not a handicap— Napoleon
I am in the property management business and can tell you that carpenters always want to "repair" leaking aluminum gutters with silicone. The results are awful beyond description. There ARE silcone products which apparently are formulated for use on aluminum, but I have never seen any reason to try them. Vulkem is much easier to work with than silicone.
Vulkem is no more expensive than quality silicone. I just bought a tub of DAP's best bathroom caulk yesterday for $5.49 - which is four cents more than Airstream Dreams charges for Vulkem. My local materials supplier has it for a bit less than that.
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