Caulking and Sealants (silicone, parbond, vulkem & more)

[Lance M]

I purchased these two sealants from fastenal a few weeks back. Has anyone ever used the 3m 560 polyurethane adhesive sealant? It was a bit expensive at $15 per tube. The tempro 626 is supposed to be like vulkem 116 but has less work time. I have been using the sikaflex 221. It has a nice finish to it. I don't dig the texture of vulkem.

[soldiermedic]

I've used Sikaflex 221 and Trempro 626 both having good results. No clue about the 3M PU stuff though. I like the Sikaflex because it is really thick, and can be sanded down (I'm talking interior use for that).

Steve

[Lotus72]

We have a '70 Overlander. We just pulled the musty carpets and found 2 layers of the bad boys. We also pulled the gaucho and table. Here are some pictures of the floor. Suggestions of what caused these leaks? Rivets are intact outside the leaks, the striping along the edge looks a bit worn, could be a source. Suggestions? '70 Overlander floor shot | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[SilverGate]

Originally Posted by Top

... The tempro 626 is supposed to be like vulkem 116 but has less work time. I have been using the sikaflex 221. It has a nice finish to it. I don't dig the texture of vulkem.
Attachment 122699

Vulkem is now called TremPro.

I used TremPro 635 in white for caulking around the Fan-Tastic Fans on our Safari last fall. (TremPro 636 is available in aluminum color.)

I mentioned this in SilverGate's Safari is Home at Last! thread, post #484.

See details of this story in Fall Safari Prep, History Safari Express.

[filterman]

Sikaflex 221 or Vulkem 116 What is the better sealant?

[constructor]

Originally Posted by Lotus72

We have a '70 Overlander. We just pulled the musty carpets and found 2 layers of the bad boys. We also pulled the gaucho and table. Here are some pictures of the floor. Suggestions of what caused these leaks? Rivets are intact outside the leaks, the striping along the edge looks a bit worn, could be a source. Suggestions? '70 Overlander floor shot | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Start at the top and work your way down. The vents (sewer and air) and AC were both leaking in our 73 Tradewind along with the windows. We havn't had a blowing rain since the constructor dug out the old vulkem and reapplied new. I think it is on page 1 of this thread were Andy describes sealing things. We have also installed all new window gaskets.

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by filterman

Sikaflex 221 or Vulkem 116 What is the better sealant?

Having now applied both, I prefer Sika 221 because it is smooth. As far as how they stand up over time, I'm not sure yet. There is a good read on sealants under field notes on the VTS website.
Vulkem

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by filterman

Sikaflex 221 or Vulkem 116 What is the better sealant?

Sikoflex is smooth and dries fast. Do not use it when doing sheetmetal work

Vulkem is course and dries slow.

They both last a long...........................long time.

Andy

[filterman]

Talked to sikaflex rep today he recommended to me 295 Marine Grade with activator because it wont chalk and has better uv stabilizers,sooooo at 11 bucks a tube I am using it on the stacked windows (only comes in black and white) I am using black and man is this stuff thick and nasty. Thanks Top,Constructor and of course Andy. I was reading that for the sheetmetal seams to use parabond but someone else mentioned another product Dymonic then theres dicor lap sealant?? Whats your take on the skins I am thinking Dymonic or Dicor. OHHHH Dont get any kind of alcohol on silka until it is cured completely or it will fail prematurely, straight from the rep. I had read where someone was wiping thier seams after applying sealant and using alcohol.
Bonding of Safety, Laminated, and Insulation Glass Windows

[filterman]

Marine grade 295 sika on stack window, I like the black.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f261...tml#post967768

[lewster]

I am a big fan of SikaFlex in all of the flavors. Works great in all recommended uses. I would not use Dicor lap seal though, as I have found that it tends to dry out after a couple of years of exposure to the elements and starts to exhibit shrinkage cracks, especially when used on roof sealing applications.

[Lance M]

I have always been partial to 3M products. I found this spec sheet on their website.
Looks like some good products to try.

[filterman]

I was on the roof yesterday doing temp sealing and noticed the Dicor peeeeeling away and cracking and thought what garbage compared to what is expected. I will do more research on the options later when I get to the skins. Hey Top I really respect 3m porducts a lot but someone said to me you never see 55gal barrels of 3m sealants in factories or shops and it made me wonder a little.

Originally Posted by lewster

I am a big fan of SikaFlex in all of the flavors. Works great in all recommended uses. I would not use Dicor lap seal though, as I have found that it tends to dry out after a couple of years of exposure to the elements and starts to exhibit shrinkage cracks, especially when used on roof sealing applications.

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by filterman

Hey Top I really respect 3m porducts a lot but someone said to me you never see 55gal barrels of 3m sealants in factories or shops and it made me wonder a little.

I guess my exposure to industrial sealants is limited to what the government supplies for us to use on our helicopters. Our standard sealant is what is commonly referred to as "Pro Seal" However when it comes to any adhesive, 3M is always on the shelf. I suspect you don't see 55 gal drums of it in factories mostly due to cost. A tube of TemPro 636 is about $6. A similar tube of 3M 560 poly adhesive sealant is $15. If a product lasts longer and is easier to apply, I think it's worth the extra cost any day because chasing leaks and worrying about the new floor you just installed rotting in the rain isn't much fun.

[filterman]

thats what im talking about. So what is the life expectancy of the

Pro-Seal 870 Class B

Would this work better for the skins? What do you think? Anything milspec is usually shure to last.
Look I dont care if the tube cost twenty bucks as long as it is reliable for a long service period. You are right and I would rather spend 200 more bucks sealing my investment than not. Just trying to do the best job I can on her. I figure if it is good enough for marine use or aviation then it works really well. I wonder what they use to seal the seams on the jet fighters? That has to be good.

[Lance M]

Filterman,
I have seen PS 870 last for at least 20 years without any breaking down. I'm pretty sure it is used on all types of aircraft, civilian and military. Aerowood here on the forums is an A&P mechanic and I know he is using PS in his restoration of his Globetrotter. Here is his thread on his GT.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html

There are a few drawbacks to it;
cost
shelf life
two components

I still think it's the best sealant ever.

[filterman]

And this is just the kind of response that really matters learning on these threads. Knowlege shared is never wasted.

[Lance M]

A PO re sealed my '72 with Parbond in 2003. Here is what the seams look like now.



I re sealed the rear hatch with SikaFlex 221. I really like how this stuff flows.




I sealed the areas around the wheel wells with black Sonolastic NP1. I also used some Sonolastic NP1 for the belt line trim.

So far I have used

3M 540 polyurethane sealant
3M 560 polyurethane adhesive sealant
TremPro 626
TremPro 636
Sonolastic NP1
SikaFlex 221
Dyco C 10 flow seal self leveling caulk

We'll see how she looks in 8 more years.

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by Top

So far I have used

3M 540 polyurethane sealant
3M 560 polyurethane adhesive sealant
TremPro 626
TremPro 636
Sonolastic NP1
SikaFlex 221
Dyco C 10 flow seal self leveling caulk

We'll see how she looks in 8 more years.

and I bet you are still wearing some of each

[Lance M]

Yep.