I have no idea. Parbond works. It flows nicely into a seam. The price is not excessive. It is easy to remove once dry should you wish. I really don't know of any negatives.
I hope it does because I have used 2 tubes on mine. Around windows, everywhere and its silver/grey in color seem to have worked very good for me. Only time will tell. Let me know what you have found out from other members
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1974 28' Argosy (Hey, Airstreams are just Argosy's that haven't been painted yet .. )
1999 Ford F250 Lariat SD Extended Cab with 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
I have a 1964 Globertrotter. I'm resealing most of the seams in a judicious manner. Waiting for the vulcum and parbond to arrive. I'm also testing a silicone based caulk designed for aluminum, temperature, flexibility, and long range performance. Time will tell.
I ran across a tool used for finishing caulk. It's just a small piece of square plastic designed to run along 90 degree surfaces. I got it from a tech who was installing my corian countertops. It works great for silicone based caulk. I think it sells for around $1 at Home Depot. It's called "Homax - Caulk Finisher". It skims across the surface removing bulk caulk and leaving a small, hard to see, bead. I would recommend it to anyone doing finishing caulk work. Goodluck!
hi- just used some vulkem to seal/install the vistaview glass up against the frame, and was wondering if/when the vulkem will set up to be somewhat hard? A day later and it is still rather soft and gooey, I don't dare take out the shims holding the glass in tight. There's not much info on the tube- thanks.
hi- just used some vulkem to seal/install the vistaview glass up against the frame, and was wondering if/when the vulkem will set up to be somewhat hard? A day later and it is still rather soft and gooey, I don't dare take out the shims holding the glass in tight. There's not much info on the tube- thanks.
I would leave the shims in for at least a week. Vulkem is fairly slow curing and will never really get hard, soft but not gooey either. I don't Know which one you used but Tremco is the manufacturer and if you run a search on their site you can get a PDF giving you specific information. Also after you remove the shims you really should replace them with something that will remain permanently. I used a clear 3/8" water hose for mine.
Aaron
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....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #2449 AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
hi- will do. I must say that this vulkem stuff is a little unpleasant to work with, gooey, messy, and icky. I won't touch the window for a week or so, I've got plastic sheeting over the whole thing anyway for any rain we might get. thanks- tim
I used Vulkem and didn't like the way it looked... gray. I've been using 3M Marine grade Silicone sealant, bought in a moment of desparation at the West Marine in Berkeley. It seems to work pretty well... I was concerned about seams opening from the coach flexing on the road. Does anyone have any thoughts/experience with this? It's been easy to tool, kind of a mess to clean up, but I like it being transparent.
Any idea where a rain leak starts that shows up on floor under the furnace on a 1979 28 ft Ambassdor?
Bigbend,
Possibly the kitchen sink vent stack, awning rail, door light, door frame, airconditioner...basically anything on the roof or side along that side...My first fix would be the plumping vent. The basics are in this Thread complete with pictures
Aaron
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....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #2449 AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
3M Marine grade Silicone sealant is an excellent product. I've used it on boats and it held up for years. Plenty of sun exposure and some off-shore pounding. Coming off some waves would cause bone-jarring landings that had to be worse than any pothole. Never had a leak with it due to movement after about 6 years of use.
Think about 5200 if you want a more permanent marine-grade seal. It's even recommended by "Tawmmy Silva" on This Old House.