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Old 03-24-2011, 01:59 AM   #253
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Exactly on point

I was on the roof yesterday doing temp sealing and noticed the Dicor peeeeeling away and cracking and thought what garbage compared to what is expected. I will do more research on the options later when I get to the skins. Hey Top I really respect 3m porducts a lot but someone said to me you never see 55gal barrels of 3m sealants in factories or shops and it made me wonder a little.
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I am a big fan of SikaFlex in all of the flavors. Works great in all recommended uses. I would not use Dicor lap seal though, as I have found that it tends to dry out after a couple of years of exposure to the elements and starts to exhibit shrinkage cracks, especially when used on roof sealing applications.
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Old 03-24-2011, 06:10 AM   #254
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Hey Top I really respect 3m porducts a lot but someone said to me you never see 55gal barrels of 3m sealants in factories or shops and it made me wonder a little.
I guess my exposure to industrial sealants is limited to what the government supplies for us to use on our helicopters. Our standard sealant is what is commonly referred to as "Pro Seal" However when it comes to any adhesive, 3M is always on the shelf. I suspect you don't see 55 gal drums of it in factories mostly due to cost. A tube of TemPro 636 is about $6. A similar tube of 3M 560 poly adhesive sealant is $15. If a product lasts longer and is easier to apply, I think it's worth the extra cost any day because chasing leaks and worrying about the new floor you just installed rotting in the rain isn't much fun.
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:39 AM   #255
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there we go

thats what im talking about. So what is the life expectancy of the

Pro-Seal 870 Class B

Would this work better for the skins? What do you think? Anything milspec is usually shure to last.
Look I dont care if the tube cost twenty bucks as long as it is reliable for a long service period. You are right and I would rather spend 200 more bucks sealing my investment than not. Just trying to do the best job I can on her. I figure if it is good enough for marine use or aviation then it works really well. I wonder what they use to seal the seams on the jet fighters? That has to be good.
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:07 AM   #256
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Filterman,
I have seen PS 870 last for at least 20 years without any breaking down. I'm pretty sure it is used on all types of aircraft, civilian and military. Aerowood here on the forums is an A&P mechanic and I know he is using PS in his restoration of his Globetrotter. Here is his thread on his GT.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html

There are a few drawbacks to it;
cost
shelf life
two components

I still think it's the best sealant ever.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:24 AM   #257
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Thanks

And this is just the kind of response that really matters learning on these threads. Knowlege shared is never wasted.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:29 PM   #258
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Parbond long term test results

A PO re sealed my '72 with Parbond in 2003. Here is what the seams look like now.

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I re sealed the rear hatch with SikaFlex 221. I really like how this stuff flows.


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I sealed the areas around the wheel wells with black Sonolastic NP1. I also used some Sonolastic NP1 for the belt line trim.

So far I have used

3M 540 polyurethane sealant
3M 560 polyurethane adhesive sealant
TremPro 626
TremPro 636
Sonolastic NP1
SikaFlex 221
Dyco C 10 flow seal self leveling caulk

We'll see how she looks in 8 more years.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:16 PM   #259
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So far I have used

3M 540 polyurethane sealant
3M 560 polyurethane adhesive sealant
TremPro 626
TremPro 636
Sonolastic NP1
SikaFlex 221
Dyco C 10 flow seal self leveling caulk

We'll see how she looks in 8 more years.
and I bet you are still wearing some of each
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:43 PM   #260
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Yep.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:48 PM   #261
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Andy,

Do you have any idea what type of gasket to use the side fixed windows for a 1969 Ambassador. I have looked everywhere and can't find one that looks like the old gaskets I have taken out. I have seen your posts and have looked all over this forum. If you don't know, I don't know if anyone will know.

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Old 05-30-2011, 03:34 AM   #262
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Andy,

Do you have any idea what type of gasket to use the side fixed windows for a 1969 Ambassador. I have looked everywhere and can't find one that looks like the old gaskets I have taken out. I have seen your posts and have looked all over this forum. If you don't know, I don't know if anyone will know.

Thanks

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Airstream will not sell the small "U" shaped gasket that holds the glass into the metal frame.

What you can use, is some Vulkem sealer, injected into the metasl frame and then insert the glass. Wipe off the surplus so that the Vulkem looks like a gasket.

You can also save yourself a bunch of time, if you clean up the old gasket, as best you can, and cover it with a bead of Vulkem. In that way, there is no need to take the window out, or apart.

Andy
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:10 AM   #263
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Being in the door and window industry, I have used flat rubber to make a U type gasket and then trim the excess just below the frame edge to allow for the application of a perimeter bead of sealant. Be aware, tempered glass, while strong, is edge-sensitive, so you should have something between the glass edge and the frame. Application of sealants in a TT is new to me, so I likely have a thing or two to learn here. I have always used silicone for any metal to glass applications and Tremco's Dymonic polyurethane sealant for any other applications. While these have always served me well in construction applications, I am not sure how well it will do in a constantly moving environment. 3m VHB tape is also an excellent product for various applications...

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Old 05-30-2011, 08:28 AM   #264
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I have always used silicone for any metal to glass applications and Tremco's Dymonic polyurethane sealant for any other applications. While these have always served me well in construction applications, I am not sure how well it will do in a constantly moving environment. 3m VHB tape is also an excellent product for various applications...

jm2c
Jim,

Your question is a good one to ask. In general, and for whatever reason, sealants on TTs do seem to have a shorter life, and so it's always important that they can be quickly removed in order that the redo is as easy and fast to do as possible.

Silicon does NOT fit in with that idea. It sticks to aluminum like crazy, and is very slow and difficult to remove.

Not only that, it goes completely ugly with age, and does not keep that pure clear look.

To be avoided at all costs...
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:50 AM   #265
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jm2c=just my 2 cents

Silicone can definately get ugly, no doubt! Polyurethane sealants are terrific...
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Old 06-26-2011, 05:08 PM   #266
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I am recaulking my 2005 Safari with Sikaflex and Acryl-R. First time ever, for me and for the trailer.

Acryl-R is going ok but I have to tape everything and use a sock to smooth out the bead. My applicator (purchased from Airstream) takes two hands to squeeze and could never put out anywhere near a reasonably smooth bead. Any other ideas for smoothing out a bead?

Applying a large piece of blue tape at rounded corners, then cutting along seam with exacto knife, separating the two tape pieces, and replacing to create 1/8" opening is a GREAT idea someone posted on this forum.

For scraping off old Sikaflex, use a STURDY plastic putty knife.

Someone suggested duct tape for emergency leak repair. Great idea. Duct tape glue sticks well on aluminum and does not leave much residue. BUT duct tape does leave a LOT of residue on the white trailer roof. Oh, well, get out the denatured alcohol.

My REAL REASON for this post: I scraped off all the Sikaflex/Vulkem from around my fantastic fan. I found that almost every screw holding the fan cover onto the roof had a fan cover crack (in the plastic) either going to the outside of the cover or towards the interior of the cover. I've never replaced a fan cover and will be taking a short camping trip in 2 1/2 weeks and a long camping trip in 6 weeks. Do I really need to replace the cover or can I just reapply loads of Sikaflex.

Thanks for your help.
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