Thanks for the responses! My local AS dealer did not have VulKem. I found some Ultima roof sealer at Menards (it's very close). This stuff is advertised as good for moveable joints, great for RV's. It is thermo plastic rubber. Thoughts on this for roof vent sealing? Otherwise, I think I'll have to order the sealant everyone is using here.
Thanks for the responses! My local AS dealer did not have VulKem. I found some Ultima roof sealer at Menards (it's very close). This stuff is advertised as good for moveable joints, great for RV's. It is thermo plastic rubber. Thoughts on this for roof vent sealing? Otherwise, I think I'll have to order the sealant everyone is using here.
If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't be experimenting with anything as important as sealants....especially on an Airstream. I would order the SikaFlex on line or buy the Vulkem from any of the other suppliers listed. These products have been used on Airstreams for a long time, and their qualities as a sealant are very well documented.
I found both at a local RV place here in Joplin. Some of the other RV places here had them also, some had one but not the other, and I also found Parbond at a mobile home supply. Colaw's had Sikaflex. They didn't seem to know what Vulkem was. Parbond comes in clear, Sikaflex in aluminum, white, and colonial white.
I've used Vulkem, Parbond in smaller tubes (comes in white, gray/silver, clear), Sikaflex and TremPro 635. The two tubes of Vulkem were rather grainey and areas caulked took on a powered surface within a year. I remember Andy saying something years ago about one of the Vulkems having a grain appearance. I was not impressed. I used Parbond gray/silver on the top edge of the belt line on my '77 Excella 500 and found later that it looked like it took on many surface cracks. I've had great luck with Sikaflex as well as TremPro 635 on my '86 Sovereign 25'. I used the Trempro 635 over the 3M mounted solar panel rocker feet May '07 and it looks just as gray/rubbery as when I squeezed it out of the tube a year ago. I had also run a good bead around the top of the rub rail around the back of the trailer with the same stuff a few months before the solar panel install and it still looks fresh.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
Hello all...great info in this thread. I've noticed a small leak somewhere around the read bedroom window only during really hard rains. The curtain gets wet and the fabric on the wall under the window seems to get wet also. The leak isn't obvious enough to pin-point it's route of entry. Anybody had experience with a leak in this area? I'm assuming it's either the clearance lights or the window itself (not the wrap around style).
I inspected the clearance lights and found that the gaskets we're actually melted right under where the bulbs are and the 2 mounting screws are corroded. I read in an earlier post that the red plastic actually tends to shrink thus loosing it's seal? Should I replace gaskets/covers? I went ahead and scraped off the old sealant around the lights and applied fresh SikaFlex - I also gooped some over the mounting screws for good measure.
As for the window...the sealant appears 'okay' but I should probably scrape and apply some new sealant. Is this where I should be using Acryl-R?? The sealant appears to be black so not sure about this area. If the sealant is in good condition, should I leave it and apply new sealant over top?
Any help would be appreciated...great info in this thread but I just need a couple pointers.
Acryl-R actually will wick into an open seam and seal it, staying very soft and pliable. SikaFlex will harden, but will retain a certain amount of flexibility. If the existing sealant is easily removable, I would take out as much as possible and then use the appropriate sealant as a replacement: SikaFlex for the larger sealing jobs and Acryl-R for the smaller areas like segment seams where it's wicking action will be of particular benefit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MG911
Hello all...great info in this thread. I've noticed a small leak somewhere around the read bedroom window only during really hard rains. The curtain gets wet and the fabric on the wall under the window seems to get wet also. The leak isn't obvious enough to pin-point it's route of entry. Anybody had experience with a leak in this area? I'm assuming it's either the clearance lights or the window itself (not the wrap around style).
I inspected the clearance lights and found that the gaskets we're actually melted right under where the bulbs are and the 2 mounting screws are corroded. I read in an earlier post that the red plastic actually tends to shrink thus loosing it's seal? Should I replace gaskets/covers? I went ahead and scraped off the old sealant around the lights and applied fresh SikaFlex - I also gooped some over the mounting screws for good measure.
As for the window...the sealant appears 'okay' but I should probably scrape and apply some new sealant. Is this where I should be using Acryl-R?? The sealant appears to be black so not sure about this area. If the sealant is in good condition, should I leave it and apply new sealant over top?
Any help would be appreciated...great info in this thread but I just need a couple pointers.
...As for the window...the sealant appears 'okay' but I should probably scrape and apply some new sealant. Is this where I should be using Acryl-R?? The sealant appears to be black...Mike
while sikaflex is used for major panels and big seams on new units...
and acryl-r is used in the tiny (1-2 mm) seams where wicking and self leveling matter...
the WINDOWS on the regular safari models have a black rubber/butyl sealant...
the factory store, or any dealer should be able to give you the part # and name for this 3rd product...
used to install the hehr windows on the basic safaris...
i've got pix of the stuff somewhere but no time to look right now.
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
Thanks for the replies so far. I contacted AS about the melted rubber gaskets in the clearance lights and they told me they don't sell just the gaskets and that I have to replace each light fixture - yikes! I think I'm off to the hardware store to find some foam rubber and cut them to size myself. I also noticed that the red light covers are attached with a single screw - I imagine this is a good source of entry for any water thus the corroded mounting screws..correct me if I'm wrong.
Mike
...I also noticed that the red light covers are attached with a single screw - I imagine this is a good source of entry for any water thus the corroded mounting screws..correct me if I'm wrong.
Mike
yep and u r not wrong.
many of us replace those rusty screws with stainless...
as the FIRST official owner modification...
as i recall the replacement is a metric 6 or 8 ? in the same length...
lewster posted a kit to 'seal' the single machine screw...
it is basically the screw, a properly sized washer AND a tiny O ring...
didn't stop water 4 me but ymmv...
there are several threads on the rusty center screws and water inside the light fixtures...
and others have made replacement gaskets, but it is tedious to do so...
a/s NOW is using led clearance lights, and they can be purchased to replace the old ones...
no word yet on how much the new version leaks...
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
Well, I stripped the old sealant off the front fantastic fan, then applied almost a whole tube of Vulkem. The Vulkem was very easy to use, cured to a very substantial feeling pliable bead. Leak seemed better, but still leaked. Gave up and took the AS to the dealer.
Having leaks coming from where the awning attaches to the trailer in several places. Is it time to reseal that area? Is Vulkem the correct product? Does the awning have to be open to seal from the top to the trailer or can you seal it properly with awning closed? 31' 2005 classic with 21' awning.
Interesting turn of events. Just called my dealer. He said my fix with Vulkem would not stick to the plastic flange of the fan assembly. Didn't sound like he has heard of Vulkem at all. Said he used the "proper sealant" and the leak is now fixed. I'll post further info when I pick up the trailer. I'll have to find out what this sealer is.
My dealer said he used Dicor Lap sealant. The Vulkem stuck to the Al very well but not to the airvent plastic flange. This stuff is available at camping world, among other places. Anyone have problems with Vulkem sticking to plastic? FWIW, I did scrub the area with soap and water, then rinsed with clean water, let it dry, then applied the Vulkem.
The GM was the person who was unfamiliar with Vulkem. The service guy told me about the plastic sticking problem, the dicor. Anyway, I was not aware of the siloxane issue and did not use a solvent to remove it. What solvent would be appropriate? I just did a search on this forum for siloxene and came up with very little. Thanks in advance, 2air!
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