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07-18-2011, 12:29 PM
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#61
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4 Rivet Member
2002 22' International
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 271
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Mamos - Congratulations. It looks like you have a really good solution, and well described as well. Pardon me for copying your excellent rendering of Airstream's design. I'm posting here for others' quick reference.
I have a few questions:
- Did you see any evidence of original caulk at the leak point? I've always wondered what the factory did during construction? What plan did Airstream have to stop the leak from penetrating through to the wood floor? If there was caulk there from the beginning, but it failed, then this means we have to inspect the caulked seam regularly. Nobody has told us to do that.
- I wonder if the rear design as in your diagram is the same in the present day models? Anybody have a comment?
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07-18-2011, 12:35 PM
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#62
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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If you caulk or modify this opening, how does water drain if the leak is from windows, tail lights, plumbing, or vents above this area?
doug k
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07-18-2011, 01:31 PM
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#63
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Clueless but willing
1969 21' Globetrotter
Falmouth
, Cornwall
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 51
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There are plenty of routes for water to find it's way from the C channel into the belly pan so I don't think that will be much of a problem.
I did not see any evidence of sealer of any kind when I cleaned up the area.
mamos
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07-18-2011, 06:04 PM
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#64
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4 Rivet Member
2002 22' International
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 271
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Doug, Your question is very interesting and surprising as it probably represents the dilemma that Airstream had when they made the first design. Two years ago I learned how water would puddle on my bumper with nowhere for the water to go except to seep into the trailer. It cost me a few thousand dollars to repair years of damage caused, apparently, by this leak to the floor. Airstream never told me that they had decided, in their initial bumper design, that it would be better to leave an opening at the joint of the rear wall and bumper just in case a tail light might leak. Surely, they knew then that water could/would seep back in the trailer, causing significant damage, because the bumper is not sloped down to make sure water flows away from the wall.
At the time I had the repair done, I had no idea how the bumper rear was constructed. Thanks to Mamos' diagram, I now have a clearer picture. However, I now wonder if the "official" repair means that my opening is now caulked or did they leave it open as the original design dictated?
I wonder what the majority of the Airstream community thinks: Should we caulk behind the rub-rail to seal against the leak, or leave it un-caulked to allow water leaks from above to flow (somewhere?)?
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07-18-2011, 06:23 PM
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#65
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Here is what I did on an older design...It would work just as well on the later versions...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1013245
This post has a link to the first of the series
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07-23-2011, 11:28 AM
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#66
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankerIP
Doug, Your question is very interesting and surprising as it probably represents the dilemma that Airstream had when they made the first design. Two years ago I learned how water would puddle on my bumper with nowhere for the water to go except to seep into the trailer. It cost me a few thousand dollars to repair years of damage caused, apparently, by this leak to the floor. Airstream never told me that they had decided, in their initial bumper design, that it would be better to leave an opening at the joint of the rear wall and bumper just in case a tail light might leak. Surely, they knew then that water could/would seep back in the trailer, causing significant damage, because the bumper is not sloped down to make sure water flows away from the wall.
At the time I had the repair done, I had no idea how the bumper rear was constructed. Thanks to Mamos' diagram, I now have a clearer picture. However, I now wonder if the "official" repair means that my opening is now caulked or did they leave it open as the original design dictated?
I wonder what the majority of the Airstream community thinks: Should we caulk behind the rub-rail to seal against the leak, or leave it un-caulked to allow water leaks from above to flow (somewhere?)?
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When they repaired mine the Tech asked if I wanted them to caulk the gap. I asked what he would do and he said fill the seam. I took his advice - having been out several thousand on repair at their facility I guess they should know how to stop it from happening again. So far no water leak but I always wonder and fear a new leak. VERY POOR DESIGN - that continues today.
__________________
Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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07-25-2011, 02:35 AM
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#67
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Clueless but willing
1969 21' Globetrotter
Falmouth
, Cornwall
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
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I did think about doing it that way but I was still concerned about water going straight from the bumper locker into the belly pan resulting in wet insulation and damp.
I have isolated the bumper locker from the body of the trailer to stop this problem.
I think I will insert some vents in the new belly pan to allow air circulation.
mamos
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