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Old 05-18-2011, 08:20 PM   #57
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Thanks for the feedback. I'm making steady progress but it is slow -- I spent probably 3-4 hours over the last two days getting the old vulkem off the shell and the rub rail, and wire brushing the small part of the frame that is now exposed frame. My trailer has a 4" by 60" piece of aluminum that fit between the frame and the C channel below the floor. It is almost totally disintegrated. I think a local place that makes duct work has some sturdy aluminum stock and they can cut the piece for me.

Thanks for the tip about the tail lights. I think I also need to remove the calking and reseal above the rear window. I ordered some Acryl R for that -- hope that is the right product. Someone also said to put a dab of vulkem on each of the lowest rivet heads that are under the rub rail. I guess it can't hurt.

I hate to admit it, but this is the 2nd time I've replaced the rear panel of the floor. Admittedly, I did a terrible job the first time -- I used pressure treated plywood b/c I didn't realize that the copper would eat the aluminum. So much for my degree in chemistry. This time I'm using some high quality A/C plywood coated with epoxy. I really want this to be the last time I pull the trailer apart.

You know the saying -- never time to do it right the first time, always time to do it twice. This is the story of my life.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:39 PM   #58
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We have reached this particular headache in the restoration of our 69 Globe trotter.

I think what I am going to do is remove the ally piece from on top the bumper that goes under the wooden floor, Cut the rear belly pan so it doesn't go aft into the bumper locker and then make a new piece that wraps from the belly pan up and under the body skin.

Then build a separate locker box in the bumper.

There is a video showing the problem we have on my blog

Leak at rear of Airstream - 1969 Airstream Globe Trotter
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:23 PM   #59
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We have repaired the section that allowed the water in and rot the floor.

See pictures and explanation in our blog

Nearly finished the rear end leak solution. - 1969 Airstream Globe Trotter

mamos
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:15 PM   #60
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Well we had a storm last night and most of today and not a drop of water has entered the Airstream so I am declaring it a success

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Old 07-18-2011, 01:29 PM   #61
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Mamos - Congratulations. It looks like you have a really good solution, and well described as well. Pardon me for copying your excellent rendering of Airstream's design. I'm posting here for others' quick reference.

I have a few questions:
- Did you see any evidence of original caulk at the leak point? I've always wondered what the factory did during construction? What plan did Airstream have to stop the leak from penetrating through to the wood floor? If there was caulk there from the beginning, but it failed, then this means we have to inspect the caulked seam regularly. Nobody has told us to do that.

- I wonder if the rear design as in your diagram is the same in the present day models? Anybody have a comment?
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:35 PM   #62
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If you caulk or modify this opening, how does water drain if the leak is from windows, tail lights, plumbing, or vents above this area?

doug k
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:31 PM   #63
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There are plenty of routes for water to find it's way from the C channel into the belly pan so I don't think that will be much of a problem.

I did not see any evidence of sealer of any kind when I cleaned up the area.

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Old 07-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #64
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Doug, Your question is very interesting and surprising as it probably represents the dilemma that Airstream had when they made the first design. Two years ago I learned how water would puddle on my bumper with nowhere for the water to go except to seep into the trailer. It cost me a few thousand dollars to repair years of damage caused, apparently, by this leak to the floor. Airstream never told me that they had decided, in their initial bumper design, that it would be better to leave an opening at the joint of the rear wall and bumper just in case a tail light might leak. Surely, they knew then that water could/would seep back in the trailer, causing significant damage, because the bumper is not sloped down to make sure water flows away from the wall.

At the time I had the repair done, I had no idea how the bumper rear was constructed. Thanks to Mamos' diagram, I now have a clearer picture. However, I now wonder if the "official" repair means that my opening is now caulked or did they leave it open as the original design dictated?

I wonder what the majority of the Airstream community thinks: Should we caulk behind the rub-rail to seal against the leak, or leave it un-caulked to allow water leaks from above to flow (somewhere?)?
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:23 PM   #65
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Here is what I did on an older design...It would work just as well on the later versions...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1013245

This post has a link to the first of the series
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Old 07-23-2011, 12:28 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankerIP View Post
Doug, Your question is very interesting and surprising as it probably represents the dilemma that Airstream had when they made the first design. Two years ago I learned how water would puddle on my bumper with nowhere for the water to go except to seep into the trailer. It cost me a few thousand dollars to repair years of damage caused, apparently, by this leak to the floor. Airstream never told me that they had decided, in their initial bumper design, that it would be better to leave an opening at the joint of the rear wall and bumper just in case a tail light might leak. Surely, they knew then that water could/would seep back in the trailer, causing significant damage, because the bumper is not sloped down to make sure water flows away from the wall.

At the time I had the repair done, I had no idea how the bumper rear was constructed. Thanks to Mamos' diagram, I now have a clearer picture. However, I now wonder if the "official" repair means that my opening is now caulked or did they leave it open as the original design dictated?

I wonder what the majority of the Airstream community thinks: Should we caulk behind the rub-rail to seal against the leak, or leave it un-caulked to allow water leaks from above to flow (somewhere?)?
When they repaired mine the Tech asked if I wanted them to caulk the gap. I asked what he would do and he said fill the seam. I took his advice - having been out several thousand on repair at their facility I guess they should know how to stop it from happening again. So far no water leak but I always wonder and fear a new leak. VERY POOR DESIGN - that continues today.
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:35 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Here is what I did on an older design...It would work just as well on the later versions...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1013245

This post has a link to the first of the series
I did think about doing it that way but I was still concerned about water going straight from the bumper locker into the belly pan resulting in wet insulation and damp.

I have isolated the bumper locker from the body of the trailer to stop this problem.

I think I will insert some vents in the new belly pan to allow air circulation.

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