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Old 06-15-2010, 09:38 AM   #29
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Thanks Bob!

Do I need to have anything on hand to help deal with the mess of the Parbond? Will I need anything to clean up areas that get touched, or is there decent "working time" where it can be just wiped off?
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Old 06-16-2010, 02:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Emerson77 View Post
Thanks Bob!

Do I need to have anything on hand to help deal with the mess of the Parbond? Will I need anything to clean up areas that get touched, or is there decent "working time" where it can be just wiped off?
Check this out:
Out Of Doors Mart has a video you can download off their site that answers all your questions about applying Parbond and type of clean up stuff needed.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:39 PM   #31
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That's a good video. If you need anything from Out of Doors Mart contact Dan Brown. I've bought alot of stuff from them and he is really good people. George
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:31 PM   #32
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My own experience with Parbond is that it is very difficult to clean up...if you get too much Parbond on and try to wipe it off you have a mess and will leave residue on the trailer. I have started to use blue painters tape above the rub rail and apply several light applications rather than one big bead. Keep tip at about a 45 degree angle to the trailer. Slow and steady is the goal.

Bob
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:07 PM   #33
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Thanks to everyone for all the tips. I'm going to tackle the Parbond sealing around the rear rub rail, the rub rail just to the right of the door (the floor gets wet right inside the door when it rains hard), and around the fresh water inlet door in the next few days. I'll probably pickup a bottle of alcohol based cleaner for cleanup if needed.

Also, thanks for the tip on the ODM videos. I had not seen them before and they are quite helpful and informative.

Thanks again,
Eric
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Old 06-17-2010, 07:24 AM   #34
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I'm still thinking about the leak I had at the rear bumper. I wish I had been able to see what the construction looked like behind the rub rail so I could understand how the water was getting in.
Some folks were telling me I had to take the rub rail off to see what was behind there. Sealing the rub rail will help, if you are sure that is the course of the water. Other folks cautioned that if I did too good a job I might find I was sealing water in that would normally have dripped out

About your door leak.... I had damaged floor right at the side of the door that I didn't know about. Turns out the Airstream guys decided it was caused by the way the frig was mounted. It needed to be tilted slightly so that water would drain out from the compartment instead of in. Water could collect in storm with the right kind of wind and eventually get in to the interior adjacent to the door. I thought that was unusual.
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:41 PM   #35
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I have been reading threads like these with great interest and want to prevent any water leaking in anywhere, but now especially at the rear bumper area.
Looking at the trailers that have had this problem I didn't notice any with the wrap around bumper that has the drawer in it. Since the wrap around bumper is a different design, is there also a problem with the way they are sealed too?
You guys that have the wrap around, do you see any problems with water around the bumper area getting inside the trailer?
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:53 PM   #36
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the classics have a different bumper and plastic ledge above it.

but the subfloor, C channel, panel overlap, rub rail assembly and materials are the same as the other major models.

so the potential for water intrusion exists at the bumper.

in addition there are many threads on older classics that have have subfloor damage/replacement from water...

AT the rear bumper/storage door.
________

short of REMOVING the rub rail and inspecting,

there is no way to determine IF the assembly is correct or vulnerable to water intrusion.

water can/does POOL outside on the bumper ledge with rain or washing.

when that happens i try to remove the standing water as much as possible.

and AFTER rain or prolonged water exposure,

i inspect INSIDE the rear storage bay that extends under the bed along the floor/wall junction...

basically LOOKING and FEELING for water inside at the perimeter.

inspecting INSIDE for water will be different on rear dinette/lounge models but the concept is the same.

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-24-2010, 04:09 PM   #37
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Thanks 2Air. I'll do the same for now and just be vigilant to the 10th degree!
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:40 PM   #38
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Yikes! I'm digging into this to see if we have a problem.
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:16 PM   #39
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Wayne: --- let us know what you see and what you find out. My problem on the '02 AS was that the bumper leak caused the installed carpet under my cabinets to get soaked. The carpet and foam just sat there for days/weeks rotting the floor with no way to dry out. I never saw it happening -- and probably neither did the previous owner.

I'm wondering what you are seeing back there.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:25 AM   #40
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I have a leak somewhere and it may be the bumper area. Back a couple of years ago i tracked down the leak to the panoramic windows leaking. I sealed them up and it seemed like everything was dry. We are now about 4000 miles into a trip and a hard rain two nights ago and some items were wet under the storage seat. While poking around under the dinette table the floor now feels spongy. just after we bought it i noticed an area on the linoleum was darker and I just figured it was dirty. When I could never clean it today I found out it was mold/mildew under it all along against the wall. We won't be able to go to Jackson center until the end of the year after our trip> Should I just run a bead between the plastic bumper cover and the bottom of the molding? The molding top seams sealed OK but the water does pool up on top of the bumper and there are spaces under it and no sealer. I couldn't imagine that goes directly to the plywood on the floor? Am I understanding that correctly that it does? I wish we had a cross section drawing...
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:32 AM   #41
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I discussed this issue with an AS dealer on Wednesday. He is convinced that this issue is ALL concerned with the window mitre joints and window frame to skin sealer and NOT the bumper to floor seam. But.....I don't know. From all the pictures posted here, I gotta believe, as do many of you, that there are multiple water entry points...including the bumper to body joint.
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:52 PM   #42
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N-Steel --- Before I had my floor repaired/replaced at JC, I did put Vulkem along the bottom of that trim. But....I read later in some posts that it might not be such a good idea. Part of the design is also to let water flow out and away if water should get behind that trim. Well that means you are dammed if you do and dammed if you don't (pun intended). http://www.airforums.com/forums/f477...ign-23121.html this thread has a sort of a diagram you are looking for.

I think many owners are waking up to the possibility of leaks back there. I just wish that the Company would also wake up to it so that we would know what to do. We owners are getting mixed messages via dealers who somehow call the company and relay a message that the problem is probably something other than the bumper design.

In your case, you just need to get that trim off the back and inspect what is back there. If you go to JC, make sure you get to see what is back there when they take the trim off. I wish I had, because I am now unsure about what might have been done to prevent it from happening again.
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