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Old 07-16-2015, 01:20 PM   #15
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Wichita Falls , Texas
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My main focus is on the rear window seams and the bumper rub rail. Where the curved window frame meets the rear window frame is a small seam. Do I just run a razor blade in this seam to get most of the old caulk out?

What is recommended for removing the caulk on the upper rub rail seam?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 07-16-2015, 05:26 PM   #16
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1996 25' Excella
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Be careful with any goop that removes caulk. It will likely also remove clear coat. Paint thinner does not affect clear coat but anything that softens silicone will also soften clearcoat. I used Varsol or paint thinner to soften the Sikaflex on my antenna mount on outr'89. It still involves scraping and being careful not to dig into the aluminum skin.
Use any acrylic caulk or Sikaflex to reseal. Stay away from silicone that dries and in my experience, shrinks because it is super sensitive to needing an absolutely clean surface.
JCW
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:20 PM   #17
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1978 31' Excella 500
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Saw a post a while back about using pressure inside the Coach to try to find the leak with soapy water. It would be a Bad Day if you ended up with more leaks than you started with !
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:51 PM   #18
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I'm doing a lot of re sulking on my '76 Ambassador right now. The clear coat is pretty well gone so my tool choice is a little different. I'm using a 1" flexible paint scraper and a "7 way" tool (from paint dept) to carefully scrape out the old caulk between seams. A little low odor mineral spirits helps too.

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Old 07-18-2015, 08:59 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Ski View Post
Saw a post a while back about using pressure inside the Coach to try to find the leak with soapy water. It would be a Bad Day if you ended up with more leaks than you started with !
That is a concern with me too. There is an RV service shop local to me that offers leak detection. I'll check with them to see what their process is. They work on some high end units so I'm hoping they have a pressure test.

My 2008 is probably due for the roof vents to be resealed. I really need to find a light weight collapsible ladder.

Kelvin
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:16 PM   #20
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I had a variety of different caulks from the past 4 generations but my favorite items for removing old caulk has been a dental scaling tool for the cracks and crevices, an old really dull chisel, broken wooden popsicle sticks for wider areas and old wine bottle corks to use like an eraser for minor residue. For the older style caulking (Vulkem) on my 69' Safari I used Rapid Remover. It's a adhesive remover I use at work. Spray it on let it sit, spray more and literally wipe the old vulkem off and best of all it doesn't touch the plasticoat clear coat on the old school trailers.
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Old 08-22-2015, 08:55 AM   #21
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Thanks for the excellent ideas.

Getting a little off topic, but if you are not experiencing any leaks do you normally start to recaulk certain items such as windows and vents if it has been several years since they were caulked last?

A lot of the gray caulk around the windows and rub rails has a black film. Is there a safe way to remove the dirt? Washing with a car wash solution doesn't seem to remove it.

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Old 08-22-2015, 09:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Cow hoofs? Who would've thought. What about any of the plastic tools you can find in a home improvement store?

Not really looking to go online for this sort of thing.

How much of the original caulk to remove. On the rub rail the caulk is level with the top of the rub rail. Do I try to get most of it out before I tape it off?

Sorry, this will be my first attempt at resealing my Airstream. Don't want to screw up the adjacent aluminum.

Keep the suggestions coming.

Thanks

Kelvin
Kelvin, I use hooves and I posted that here on this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ml#post1625109
For the thin cracks and tight spots I use a bamboo chop stick (I like the ones with a square end) that I sharpen with a knife and sand paper.
That gray film you see on the sealant, can most likely be removed with a little Mineral Spirits, it will not harm the clear coat.
I agree it is a good idea to have it pressure leak detected, especially if it is local.
Here is the best thread on sealants that I have seen: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ry-116214.html
Leaks are a real pain!
Mine was leaking like Niagara Falls though some Olympic rivets and running down between the skins and poring out the window frame. Some PO replaced an end cap panel and did not use sealant. I ended up removing the panel, sealing with TremPro 635 and Buck rivet the panel back in place. Then the the rivets all got Capt. Tolley's Creeping crack cure up top and a coating of rubber paste on the under side. Boom no more leaks.
I hope your journey is much shorter than mine.
Best of luck with your leak.

-Dennis
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:41 PM   #23
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Kelvin, I use hooves and I posted that here on this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ml#post1625109
Yes! Thanks Dennis! That was exactly the thread that I found that lead me to the hooves mentioned above. Many thanks!
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