Basic questions on applying Parbond and Vulkem

[Jammer]

Well, they don't stay new forever, and besides, I now have a 40 year old Cayo in addition to the 2010 Airstream. I've followed the caulking and sealing threads with detached interest until now, and now I need some advice.

I have a supply of Vulkem and Parbond laid in.

I believe my Cayo has quite a number of leaks. Like the former owner, I'm keeping it inside, so they haven't resulted in floor rot etc. I want to seal any sources of leaks before they result in water everywhere inside.

Questions:

1) What is the best way to remove old sealant and prepare the surface? Scraper? Wire brush? Chemical removers?

2) To what extent is it possible to reseal components without removing them? See, for example, the water inlet (photo).

3) What is the best strategy for determining what needs to be resealed? Just seal everything in sight? Garden hose? Sealtech air pressure machine? A combination?

[dznf0g]

I use a variety of PLASTIC scrapers, some with points and angles. Get them at HD. When there is a little residue left, I use Brakeclean. Doesn't damage clear coat or aluminum and gets it of really well. Some places require a razor knife to VERY CAREFULLY loosen edges of sealers.

Tape off and apply sealer, smooth out with fingertip and remove tape immediately....especially with Parrbond....it skins really fast.

I just tape off around components, unless there is a compelling reason to remove them.

With the age of your Cayo, I would systematically reseal everything, beginning with those areas which are showing cracking or pealing of sealer. On your AS, I would just follow around the unit and reaseal just those areas that show cracking and pealing, and stay on top of it so you won't ever have to do the whole thing at once.

[Jammer]

Thanks dzn. Makes sense.

My water inlet picture keeps showing up as a guitar. Forum software must be playing a belated April fool's joke on me.

[dznf0g]

Around components like the water inlet, trim with razor knife, tape off for a very thin bead of Parrbond. Others might say differently, but I really like the clean look of silver parrbond around items with small gaps.

[marzboy]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Around components like the water inlet, trim with razor knife, tape off for a very thin bead of Parrbond. Others might say differently, but I really like the clean look of silver parrbond around items with small gaps.

With you on the Parbond. It looks great near water fills, trim etc. I like silkaflex on larger gaps. It flows out really smooth. I keep a squeeze bottle of solvent and go thru a lot of paper towels. I have also heard WD40 works well as a remover. I have yet to try it, probablly will this afternoon.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Thanks dzn. Makes sense.

My water inlet picture keeps showing up as a guitar. Forum software must be playing a belated April fool's joke on me.

No AF joke...a lot of pic's on the site changed over to a rusty hitch photo early this morning. Went to my Dexter thread and all the photo's were of a rusty tongue...very cornfusing at 6am.

Mod's must have got it straight all look normal now.

Bob

[moparjohn]

OK, So I'm trying to get my Tradewind more weather proof. I am removing and resealing some items (IE vent pipes, stove vent, roof vents, and I wamt to seal the seams on the aluminum skins. Which sealant for what job, and a quick why? Also, is there a reason my stove vent cover is screwed on not riveted? same with fridge? MPJ

[ROBERT CROSS]

John,

Here's a thread that should help.

Acryl-R for the narrow gap panel seams.


Bob

[FIREHOSS16]

I want to seal the bottom band, I suppose that is the description, on an 82 Unlimited, any recommendations