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ASFmlyTrdshn · 04-20-2018, 06:25 AM

I know this is a topic that's been beat to death almost, but after combing through tons and tons of threads I haven't seen anyone that brought up this question (but it's possible I missed one). I'm curious about sealing leaks on an Argosy from the exterior over paint. We're currently doing a frame on restoration of our '73 Argosy 24 and one of my first major tasks is to make it water tight. I'm in the process of pulling off the skins to seal it from the inside and I'm also thinking I'm going to seal it from the outside as well. Now here's my dilemma: we're eventually going to get it re-painted but I still want to seal the seams and possibly the rivets. Has anyone with an Argosy or painted AS sealed over paint? Or would y'all recommend to buff off the paint along all the seams and then seal the bare aluminum on the seams and then paint over? Has anyone had any experience painting over the sealants? Or if I use Lexel or Capt. Tolley's on it, will that seep into the seams and there shouldn't be anything to paint over when it comes to repainting? I also realize that the paint will help seal to some extent, but I'd rather not rely on the paint as a sealer (because it clearly isn't working right now). With bare aluminum, it's straightforward, but painting over or sealing over the paint is different. I'm just trying to get it done right the first time so I'm not having to redo it again in a couple years and also get it done without needing to get it repainted every time after I reseal it.

rugjenkins · 04-20-2018, 08:11 AM

I have an argosy also I'm going to repaint. I stripped mine and have been resealing also. All the sealants you name can be painted over. So can sikaflex and gutterseal. Captain tolley on the rivets and sikaflex or gutterseal on the seams and your good to go.

DryFly · 04-20-2018, 08:37 AM

I scraped the old sealant out of the seams, first. Then taped both sides of each seam to keep excess sealant contained. After the sealant dried and cured I painted. No leaks at the seams. I used SikaFlex fo sealant and Hyperseal for the roof coating.
A couple of notes: minimize the amount of sealant you use - it doesn’t take much. Clean up with paint thinner any excess immediately.

ScottandMoni · 10-19-2018, 11:03 PM

Hi ~ just joined and need to seal the roof on my 1988 Arogsy ~ just getting info here to decide how I want to do this. Did you seal your entire roof?

DryFly · 10-21-2018, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottandMoni

Hi ~ just joined and need to seal the roof on my 1988 Arogsy ~ just getting info here to decide how I want to do this. Did you seal your entire roof?

Yes, I sealed every seam on the trailer. I also used Captain Tolly's on the rivets, as rugjenkins suggests. Then the Hyperseal on the roof. Before using the Hyperseal I caulked (Sikaflex) around the vents and fan. The roof is as water tight as an AS can get, I think.

There's a really good thread on sealants that lays out, for the most part, what sealants to use where. I liked the Sikaflex and it's workability, but I've also used Loctite, which may actually be a longer lasting product with basically the same attributes. According to Loctite (I called their technical services line and spoke to a live person), once painted the product will last "indefinitely". Sikaflex won't make that statement - probably a liability thing. The advantages I see for Loctite are that it's available at a lot of places including the big boxes and it comes in many colors. Sikaflex is a little more elusive.

ScottandMoni · 10-21-2018, 11:21 PM

This is very helpful. We just took all the old caulking off the seams and used a light wire wheel on those areas to get it really clean. All rivets are now exposed as are the seams. I am planning on caulking every rivet with sikaflex, letting them dry and then using permabond tape on all seams and then sikaflex on top of permabond tape. I’d appreciate any thoughts you have on this.

As I read your reply it seems you used one product on the rivets, another on the seams and vets then another for the roof? Or was the hyper seal placed over the sikaflex on the seams?

ScottandMoni · 10-21-2018, 11:22 PM

I do see that you suggest the loktite over the sikaflex.

ScottandMoni · 10-29-2018, 11:13 PM

We have finished our roof and are now moving onto side seam sealing. Planning on using sikaflex on side seams and capt tulley on rivets same as we did on roof ~ just minus the silicone sealing we did on roof. Any other suggestions on another product and/or method for side seams?

DryFly · 10-30-2018, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottandMoni

This is very helpful. We just took all the old caulking off the seams and used a light wire wheel on those areas to get it really clean. All rivets are now exposed as are the seams. I am planning on caulking every rivet with sikaflex, letting them dry and then using permabond tape on all seams and then sikaflex on top of permabond tape. I’d appreciate any thoughts you have on this.

As I read your reply it seems you used one product on the rivets, another on the seams and vets then another for the roof? Or was the hyper seal placed over the sikaflex on the seams?

I think the permabond tape and sikaflex combined is overkill. You need to consider what you'll do in a few years when you need to revisit your roof. I see later down the thread you used silicone - is that correct?

Moving forward, just use either sikaflex or loctite, don't use silicone and really consider whether you want to use permabond tape. Use Captain Tully's on the rivets.

I used the Hyperseal as a finishing coating, so it went on after sealing the seams and rivets. I used Hyperseal because I had some left over from roof repairs I did on a couple of commercial flat roofs. I have faith in the stuff, so I used it and I'm glad I did. Way better than just paint. It's just for a roof though - I'd never use it below a roof line.

PM me if you want more information. I may not get back to you for a few days as I'm on the road. In the interim, throw away the silicone!

Rowan · 06-17-2021, 02:38 PM

Looks like this thread has been dormant for a while but I found it through a search and am hoping some of you are still here. I have a 1975 argosy 24 which has a really nice paint job overall curtesy of the PO but I can see some small cracks along the seams in the walls and roof though as far as I know there is no leaking. The seam holding the wall and belly pan together is a different story and looks like it will need to be taken off and resealed completely but for the wall and roof it just needs touch up/maintenance. I don't want to strip the paint or undo the seams but I do want to keep them in as good of shape as possible without messing up the paint or turning into a big thing. I'm curious what to use for this kind of ongoing maintenance/preemptive sealing. Can I just clean it really well and then rub something into the crack, or use a thin liquid sealant that will seep into cracks and stop them from spreading? Here is are some pictures of what I'm talking about.

DryFly · 06-17-2021, 11:40 PM

Depending on what the po used on the seams, you should be able to cut the sealant out pretty well and then re caulk with a good urethane sealant. There are a lot of opinions on what the best one is, but I think it’s pretty hard to screw it up. I used a Loctite urethane from a big box store and was very happy with the end result. Re the seam holding the belly pan and wall panel, if you are referring to the horizontal band at the lower portion of trailer, is cosmetic only and doesn’t need attention as long as the rivets hold it in place well. I took mine all the way off before I figured out it was just for looks.
You do need to work on the seal around your windows. Use a good urethane caulk as previously stated. You may still have leaks there as this is a prime area for water infiltration. Keep an eye on it. Look on the web for a product called Captain Tollys Creeping Crack Cure - it will become your best friend.