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Old 12-12-2008, 06:05 PM   #1
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Alcoa Gutterseal ups and downs

Well, i could just continue the huge post at the top on all vulcem vs. alcoa vs. silkaflex vs. parrbond vs. etc. but this needs to be said on it's own to save some folks the trouble i had.

I'm sealing my 73' Sovereign and using Parrbond on the roof and Vulcem above the windows and doors as directed by many on this forum, but i got some Alcoa gutterseal to do around my VistaViews and all other seams, since i heard it would wick into the joints better than Parrbond. My report is that it does a great job at that, but i taped off the rear of my trailer carefully to apply it and it skins over VERY quickly and pulls off with the tape no matter how you remove the tape. I could only find one post here telling me about this, AFTER i did the job today of course. I've also heard it's gonna change color on me somewhat but i'll wait and see on that.

I tried everything to remove the tape cleanly, going over the edges with a razor blade first, waiting a long time for it to cure, but my research tells me that masking tape and Alcoa Gutterseal just don't work together.

I'm gonna rip it all off tomorrow (luckily it's just the back of my trailer) and freehand it. After i worked with the gutterseal for awhile, i realized you can do a perfect, small seam with it using the tube it comes in with no tape. You simply have to hold the tube at a 90 degree angle from the surface your working on and let the back side of the tip spread it flat as you go along. Or you can squeeze a little harder while lifting a little off of the work surface and get a nice bead in no time.

I hope this helps some other folks, and just remember: Alcoa Gutterseal skins over INSTANTLY and you can't go back and touch any seam you've just laid down or you will ruin it.

Comments? Correct methods i didn't know about?

Thanks, newbie
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Old 12-13-2008, 07:48 AM   #2
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Went over to Bob Thompsons house last weekend to see his 25'. Almost five years after painting and re-sealing, it was impressive to see the SEAMERMATE look new, especially compared to the Par-Bond work that was done.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...3&postcount=21

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Old 12-13-2008, 08:48 AM   #3
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I used Alcoa in the aluminum color. If you are careful you can make a bead very easily like 86scotty says. It is very flexible so I covered some holes for a satellite dish with them that were to big for rivets. That was about 8 months ago and it is still fine.. I even used it to fill in some of the holes at the top of rivets, before I got my olympic ones.

I dip the rivets in the end of the tube to help seal the rivets too. I love the stuff. Plus it cleans up with solvent, if you mess up.
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:20 AM   #4
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I have used Alcoa on any sealing I have done on my trailer. Some of it has been on the trailer for several years now.
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Old 12-13-2008, 12:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
Went over to Bob Thompsons house last weekend to see his 25'. Almost five years after painting and re-sealing, it was impressive to see the SEAMERMATE look new, especially compared to the Par-Bond work that was done.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...3&postcount=21

Amerimax Home Products, Inc.

Excellent information REDNAX. I will be following Bob Thompson's advice.
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:17 PM   #6
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Update, thanks for the input folks. I'm pretty happy with the Gutterseal, if just doesn't do well with masking tape. I ripped all the tape off today, which brought most of the gutterseal off with it, so i just redid that section of the trailer with gutterseal using NO tape. It worked well, i just lost some time and whole roll of tape.

I'll update everyone if i experience the color turning to gold as some have said. So far so good!
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