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Old 12-01-2012, 10:53 AM   #15
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Hi Cara, my leaks now are in front around windows and are minor. Plumbing, I have completely redone with pex, and pressure checked, so far so good. I am currently finishing new twin bed frames. This is a major project for me but what else for an old geezer to do?
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:08 AM   #16
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Sounds like fun to me. Let me clarify, I would do a shell-off floor replacement, but time and space aren't there. I've had a habit in my life to jump into every project head first and though I eventually do get them done, it's painfully tedious. We are almost finished with out 69 Camaro interior that I started, shoot, 6 years ago? It sat untouched for the majority of that time and it drove me crazy. I couldn't bear to see the AS sit like that, never knowing when I would be able to use it again.
So, my new moto is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". It suits me well and costs a lot less.
I almost had my husband taked into buying a gutted AS out of Coarsegold to restore and sell. But he's not as adventureous (or crazy) as I am.
Best of luck to your project too!
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:05 PM   #17
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LOL, love that solution!
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:15 PM   #18
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How are you 'resealing' the seams of the aluminum shell? I can see the old sealant in my seams, but I also see lots of gaps where the sealant has cracked and probably just fallen out. Are you scraping the old sealant that remains from inbetween the seams as much as you can, then sealing over it all?

I suspect I have leaks in the roof seams because I have water pooling up on top of two window frames on the inside of the trailer! Yuch!

Also, my refridgerator access door has water pooling up on the inside bottom of the frame, but I've temporarily completely DUCT taped the whole door on the outside, so it must be coming from the inbetween the outside/inside shells.

I have a 66 Caravelle.

So any instructions on how to reseal the seams?
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:00 PM   #19
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How are you 'resealing' the seams of the aluminum shell? I can see the old sealant in my seams, but I also see lots of gaps where the sealant has cracked and probably just fallen out. Are you scraping the old sealant that remains from inbetween the seams as much as you can, then sealing over it all?

I suspect I have leaks in the roof seams because I have water pooling up on top of two window frames on the inside of the trailer! Yuch!

Also, my refridgerator access door has water pooling up on the inside bottom of the frame, but I've temporarily completely DUCT taped the whole door on the outside, so it must be coming from the inbetween the outside/inside shells.

I have a 66 Caravelle.

So any instructions on how to reseal the seams?
Hi there,
yes, I removed all of the old sealant using the plastic dish scraper from my kitchen. It worked really well without scratching the aluminum. Then I went back and cleaned all the seams and anything that needs to be sealed with soapy water. I didn't want to fully wash the trailer now that it was completely unsealed. I washed it a day before I started removing all the old sealant and then parked it in the shop, so it's generally clean.
One forum member told me that he used blue painter's tape and masked everywhere that he sealed. Then he told me that he found a little blue caulking tool and he liked that method better.
I tried both. I hate the little blue caulking tool. (As seen on TV) It just turned out way more sloppy than I could live with.
So yesterday, I started masking with blue tape. It takes more time, but I'm convinced this is the best way to get a clean line. I don't use the blue tool, just my finger. I dip it in water first. Seem to keep the mess down a tad.
I'm aiming for an 1/8 bead on the seam laps and the blue tape doesn't disappoint. (I'm not good at sealing, but I'm awesome at taping!!!! )
I'm about half way done.
I'm using a polyureathane sealant by 3M called 540. So far I like it. We shall see how it holds up to weather and UV. I order it in gray, but I hear the clear doesn't degrade and turn yellow either.
I would be glad to hear other experiences with this job as well!

Best of luck,
Cara
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:15 PM   #20
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leaks. Sigh.

I didn't read every post, but if silicon has been used, you'll need to use something to remove the solvents it will leave behind, from the aluminum.

I have had so many leaks on my trailer... and you think, there are a finite number of penetrations, you have to have gotten them all! It's an adventure
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:49 AM   #21
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I've temporarily completely DUCT taped the whole door on the outside,
Get that duct tape off! The longer it stays the worse the glue stays on the trailer. Much better to use 3M clear package tape (not the cheap package tape), seals nearly as well as duct tape without the nasty residue.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #22
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Thanks, you are so right, the clear tape works much better. Now, how to get the duct tape glue off? I've tried goof off, acetone, thinner...hmmm.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:17 PM   #23
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Thanks, you are so right, the clear tape works much better. Now, how to get the duct tape glue off? I've tried goof off, acetone, thinner...hmmm.
Mebbe one of those cheap heat guns?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #24
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thanks, you are so right, the clear tape works much better. Now, how to get the duct tape glue off? I've tried goof off, acetone, thinner...hmmm.

wd-40?
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:43 AM   #25
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ok, i'll give both suggestions a try, thank you both!
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:51 AM   #26
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I was taught by my father to cut the tube on a slight angle, not 45 but more like 20 deg. Also, important to PUSH the tube in the direction of travel while applying, with the longer part of the cut in front, and squeeze just enough to get the material to show in front of the end of the tube. dont let too much show while moving the tube forward, but be sure you always see the material to eliminate "starving" the joint and leaving a blank spot in your bead. Much like welding, dont watch what you have done, watch where you are going. What happens is, the tube "strikes" the caulk as you go, and you apply only enough to fill the void. too much and your tube acts like a bull-dozer and leaks caulk to the sides too. if you PULL the tube, the bead is not struck, and can not be controlled as varying pressure and travel speed will lay out the bead in a non-uniform amount. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:26 AM   #27
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What a cool picture!!! And the best of two worlds Airstream and house boating!

Regards,

Reganzo
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:12 AM   #28
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I used some 'Goof Off'.. professional strength.. took almost a whole can to remove the glue residue from the screen door gasket...

Note.. I used 'solvent proof/resistant' gloves.. they lasted thru 3/4 of the can of Goof Off!
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