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Dan S · 05-31-2007, 01:21 PM

I want to be proactive and apply Acryl-R to the upper part of my Argosy. How is this applied? Do I apply to all seams and each individual rivet?

Can I apply it where there is already sealant in place (no matter what kind) or is it only for aluminum joints?

Thanks,

Dan

nickcrowhurst · 06-01-2007, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan S

I want to be proactive and apply Acryl-R to the upper part of my Argosy. How is this applied? Do I apply to all seams and each individual rivet?Can I apply it where there is already sealant in place (no matter what kind) or is it only for aluminium

Dan, I assume you have the special applicator for Acryl-R, available from the shop at Airstream.com. If not, it's a vital tool for injecting a soft compound like Acryl-R. With the applicator, neat seam sealing is possible. Typing Acryl-R into the search box above will give details.
I would inspect all seams, and rake out any where the old caulk is cracked or brittle. I would not attempt to seal each rivet. The result is likely to be very messy, in my experience. One particular seam to seal is the joint between the awning support rail and the bodywork. When you walk on the roof you can see the joint opening as you move. Leaks tend to be round skylights, light fittings, antenna, and especially the tank vent rubber roof seals. Leaks between panels are rare as the panels overlap from the top down. (Except, I see, at the rear of some modern Safaris I've noticed in campgrounds.)
I have applied Acryl-R where other compound is in place, without any ill-effect after 3 years.
It's worth practising with the applicator on some scrap material. Good luck.
Nick.

Dan S · 07-04-2007, 06:44 PM

I just applied some Acryl-R and need to know how best to store it? Should I remove the pump applicator and if so, what do I do with all the goop in the applicator and does it need to be flushed clean prior to putting away?

thx

CanoeStream · 07-04-2007, 06:56 PM

Where's Lewster in his voyages...

2airishuman · 07-04-2007, 08:15 PM

hi dan...

i've stored acryl-r up to a year in the applicator and without ill effects...

a 'skin' forms on the surface but the applicator empties from the bottom...

a small wire is inserted in the tip/end and seals the tube.

i place the entire thing in a zip lock bag...a year later and still flows fine.

reads like you have a full can with the separate pump head?

the BEST storage is really to remove the pump head and screw the can lid back on.

the head can be cleaned easily with lacquer/paint thinner or mineral spirits...

even old dry hard acryl-r will dissolve in thinner and with time.

cheers
2air'

Frank's Trailer Works · 12-10-2007, 07:01 PM

Can you tell me a little more on how to apply the acryl r? I have bought it and the applicator but have not tried it yet. Does it spray out in a stream? Do I need to tape the seam or is it easy to control?
2 air I read as much searched info on acryl r and have not had these questions answered.

2airishuman · 12-10-2007, 07:26 PM

no masking needed.

clean the crack or gap or space to be sealed...

fill the tank or screw the triggle/handle/head thing, into the can...

squeeze the trigger a few times (remove the wire plug for the head)

a pencil lead sized (1-2 mm) stream of stuff will appear.

run the stream of goo along the crack/gap/space....

IF you screw up wipe it all off with a solvent rag and start over....

this tiny stream, via capillary action is pulled partially into the seam gap...

as it dries the bead collapses naturally...

so once dry it looks like a professional 'pin striped silver' along the tiny cracks...

cheers
2air'

i'm sure someone with LOADS of expertise has posted better instructions and even pics somewhere here...

but searching is so overrated.

Frank's Trailer Works · 12-11-2007, 05:42 AM

2 Air, Thank you that was so quick and easy. I did read up about the stuff, but did not find that kind of concise explanation. PS Any time you want to "recommend" any more you tube of the boys, feel free.

Bluto · 05-19-2010, 02:55 PM

I found this old thread and it applies to what I'm planning on doing as I search for gaps all over the stream.
I just bought some Acryl R from the A/S store and it is in a regular large caulking tube that you put in a caulking gun. Is this the wrong type? Should I have gotton the can of stuff with the applicator you mention above? Am I asking for trouble if I try to use this form of caulk from a caulking tube?

nickcrowhurst · 05-19-2010, 03:42 PM

Bluto, you only need the applicator to help make very narrow and accurate beads. The applicator is a great tool for that purpose, but otherwise the tube you purchased will be fine.
Nick.

2airishuman · 05-19-2010, 05:51 PM

bluto

i would agree the sharp shooter gun isn't needed,

but it sure is FUN to use.

see post # 144 +/- a couple, for the visuals here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...tml#post344363

probably worthwhile to scan the whole thread once.

it's tough to make the TINY TINY hole in the TUBE version for pin striping the smallest gaps,

and control FLOW with a big caulking gun (the trigger makes bigger jumps) ...

and for larger gaps i typically switch to the more common urethane sealants (parbond, s'221 or 721 or the infamous V'km)

cheers
2air'

Bluto · 05-20-2010, 04:43 AM

Great, thanks guys! Next time around I'll get the applicator gizzmo most of you use. I have very little to seal just a couple of pin holes here and there. They are so small I could probably leave them, but since I have the time to go over the whole trailer, I'm really looking hard to find anything.
Oh, by the way, I noticed that the pocket holder for the license plate does not have an external seal around it. Looks to be a a tape seal between the skin and the holder. I'll probably put a small bead of this stuff around 3 sides also as it looks like it could be one of those areas that might be a potential problem some day. I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with that area though, have you?
Maybe the answer is in the link you gave me, I haven't read it yet. I'll get a large cup of coffee and get started on it.

2airishuman · 05-20-2010, 09:51 AM

a/s NOW has a nifty how2diy on using this magic goo...

http://service.airstream.com/files/l...db90851ca9.pdf

save a copy on yer hard drive b4 it vanishes!

also a nice/basic sealant guide for newer streams...

http://service.airstream.com/files/l...8f65c7c167.pdf

cheers
2air'

Bluto · 05-20-2010, 10:34 AM

I have a problem with my computer as it opened the first link fine, then it froze up when I tried to print it and went blank. When I tried the 2nd link, I just get a blank page.
Oh well, maybe it disapeared already?
I'll try it again later. Maybe 3000 airstreamers are trying to download this info all at one time.
From what I did see it looks like some good info. Thanks for posting the links!

Bluto · 05-20-2010, 02:40 PM

Finally, got it to print those sheets from the link. It was just human error on my part!
Thats some good product info for someone like me who has little experience with the new formulas we have to work with these days.
2 air, I don't know how you found that on the Airstream site. I looked for a long time and finally gave up. Luckly tried your links again.

asv2 · 08-26-2016, 01:57 PM

Just used Acryl-R for the first time resealing top of rub rail after removing and reattaching. Some gaps were larger than 1/8". Returned after 2 days and found Acryl-R bead collapsed & wicked in pretty well in places and a few tiny bubbles here and there. Question: should more Acryl-R be applied in these areas? It was tacky yesterday and attracted some fine grit which I don't think is going anywhere.

taylorsafari · 05-07-2017, 10:52 AM

great details. thank you

Wingeezer · 05-07-2017, 02:02 PM

Looks like this is an old thread that has come to life - but still an interesting one.

I have been amazed at how long the stuff lasts in the can with ths dispenser attached with no ill effects - I have a can still in use after quite a few years.

I did have the nozzle tube block one even with the storage wire in the end. I got it cleared and now use a much longer piece of SS wire when storing the dispenser.

One thing I have never been sure of when applying the Acryl R to a seam......

I put masking take closely along either side of the seam and remove it very quicly after application

I hold the nozzle at about 45 degrees along the seam - but I am not sure of the best bead is achieved by dragging the nozzle or pushing? Anyone know which way should give the best looking bead?

Dlbriggs · 08-26-2018, 01:57 PM

So, what I get from this thread is re-sealing the vertical skin panels is rarely necessary. More likely, the work is topside and rub rails where sun/wind/rain can wear the sealer down quicker.

My 2012 is now mollycoddled by enclosed storage, but the first six years was spent out in the Texas sun full-time.

My questions: Is this enough wear to risk the climb to the top of the trailer and check the seals? How often should the seals be checked? AS says every 12 months. Is this realistic?

Thanks.

lawrell · 02-19-2020, 08:26 AM

Hi, I'm resealing our 'new' '77 Tradewind and I've got the ADSEAL silicone (in standard caulk gun format) and have applied it around the mid and low horizontal bands (is that the rub rail?). I used my finger to smooth it out and yes, some areas are pretty and some are not. If I didn't push it in, would it collapse naturally like the ACRYL-R or is that a trait that only ACRYL-R has? My plan is to clean up the 'fat-fingered' areas once I get some dry days. thanks in advance for your help.