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Old 09-03-2008, 10:27 AM   #29
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Ganglin- I think that is a very good tip. It seems another trick is to glue up the window frame, and the gasket, so that you are then mating surfaces that have had approximately equal drying time- tricky, when using contact cement on long, skinny surfaces that take a while to apply the glue, and then mate up an inch or 2 at a time. In other words, start glueing up the end of the gasket that corresponds to the place you started glueing on the window, which would be one side of center, bottom. Maybe in a more humid climate none of this would matter, but here it sure does.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:48 AM   #30
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[quote=Inland RV Center, In;611423]
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Originally Posted by cameront120 View Post
Ask and you shall receive! Here are pictures of the door of my '72 Tradewind. Judging from the condition of the weatherstripping, it is original and is, as far as I know, correct. Even with it in fairly poor condition, I get no water ingress.

I see two things that are a problem with the gaskets and/or door.

Someone has installed a gasket at the top of the door jamb.

That suggests that it was done to stop a water leak, because the door is slightly warped.

The door gasket should never be cut at the lower corners. That's a leak area.

Bend the gasket around the bottom corners when you replace it. The only seam you want is at the very bottom of the door.

That seam can be made "seamless" if you apply some of the adhesive to both ends of the gasket at the bottom of the door. Hold the ends apart until the adhesive is dry to the touch. Then stick the two ends together.

I cannot tell anything about the remainder of the gasket, since there isn't a close up photo.

When you replace the door and window gaskets, we recommend using the "D" shaped material, since it does a superior job, over the double flared gasket.

Also, the screen door gasket should be installed all the around the screen door, even in the hinge area.

Andy
Andy I have a question concerning the Front window gasket. When going around the square corners of the front and rear windows, is it better to bend the new gasket around the corner or cut the gaskets on a 45 degree angle? The old gasket looks like it has been cut, but it's in such poor shape that it's hard to tell. The other windows are curved all the way around. Any input? Thanks, George.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:57 AM   #31
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yeah. Me.

But I thought I was the only one. (the only one I've seen here, on the forums, grumbling about it...until now). So I figured that I must have been doing something wrong...and I'm sure I was; just not sure exactly "what".
I actually had better luck with the yellow stuff, although, it too was labeled '3m super weatherstrip adhesive". don't know if there's any "real" difference, other than the color....

Oddly enough, the windows came out perfectly. no problems there, at all. I only had trouble with the door. I can only think that it has to be in part because a single 10-foot length of gasket is very awkward to handle, or something like that. I had it stripped down to absolutely bare shiny metal. Maybe it would go better if I could easily pop the door off, and lay it flat on a bench. (like I could do with the windows).
Chuck.

The yellow adhesive is very inferior to the black, when exposed to weather.

The gasket for your door should be 16 feet long, with the cut at or near the center of the bottom of the door.

Poor or improper door gaskets cause many rotted floors at the entrance doors. We see all too many of them.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:07 PM   #32
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well, I will certainly keep an eye out for any sign of water infiltration. So far, so good....

here are the pics I've been meaning to post. don't know if they'll do anyone any good, at this point, but here they are...
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:27 PM   #33
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Thanks, Chuck- I just came in from prepping my 4th window, and it is definitely helpful to see the pics of your door before I do mine. I take it you've got foam gasket on your screen door, not the 2-fin stuff? I also forgot to concur earlier with Andy that using a wire-wheel brush in a drill is the easiest way to get the old glue off. I tried solvents on the first one- it worked just fine, but what a slow, messy, toxic way to do it. I did clean all the solvent off, using denatured alcohol as the last step, and the new glue stuck just fine to the window. But- skip the solvents, wooden scrapers, steel wool, etc. and use a wire-wheel- Andy absolutely knows what he's talking about! Off to glue up....
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:33 PM   #34
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Tphan, On the front window, are you wrapping the gasket around the square corner or cutting the gasket to make like a picture frame corner. I just got done doing 3 out of my 5 windows, The old gasket was so shot it looked like it had been cut on a 45 degree angle but maybe not.
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:44 PM   #35
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Gkiesel- I have not done that one yet, and don't know what I'll do in the corners (same with door). I will probably practice bending the gasket to a 90-degree angle, and see if it tends to bunch up too much. If it does, I think I'd be tempted to cut the 45-degree corners, if it can be done accurately. If you get to it first, post here on how it went! I think Andy recommends bending it around the corner, not cutting it. -tim
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:21 PM   #36
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I take it you've got foam gasket on your screen door, not the 2-fin stuff?
that is correct. I'm pretty sure thats just standard hardware store stuff.

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I also forgot to concur earlier with Andy that using a wire-wheel brush in a drill is the easiest way to get the old glue off. I tried solvents on the first one- it worked just fine, but what a slow, messy, toxic way to do it. I did clean all the solvent off, using denatured alcohol as the last step, and the new glue stuck just fine to the window. But- skip the solvents, wooden scrapers, steel wool, etc. and use a wire-wheel- Andy absolutely knows what he's talking about! Off to glue up....
well, I used a combination of "all of the above". by the time I finished the whole project, I finally figured out the best way. (actually, I still have to do the rear window; I've been putting it off, for some reason.)
I cut off the old gasket w/ a u-knife, used solvent (xylene) to soften the remaining glue. it doesn't take it off, but it helps soften it. scrape down as much as possible w/ the razor, then do the rest w/ the super-narrow wire wheel. I didn't dare use the wire wheel on the door, though, as it would be just too easy to slip off, and hit the nice, shiny finish on the trailer skin. So I used a dremel wire wheel....several of them. you'll go right through 'em. they work, but its s l o w...

oh, and mind this!: be very careful when you go to put the windows back in!! those hinges that are riveted on to the window frame are not very strong, at all. They're perfectly fine for holding the window in place, when its already "in place"...but they can't take being torqued at ALL. If you don't have those "J's" lined up just so, it'll bind when you start to lower the sash, and before you can even feel any binding, there's already been too much force applied, and "pop" go the rivets. I had to replace a few of the originals with pop rivets, which work, but they look like heck. something that probably no one would ever notice, but me...but its annoying!! I wish I knew what the proper name/specs for this type of rivet was...there are so many different kinds...they look like bucked rivets, with the nice, round head, and all...but they're much smaller than the ones used on the trailer skins. (an olympic is way too big). I think this type is installed with a hand-held rivet squeezing tool...don't know the proper name, but since its kind of a "specialty" thing, I'm sure it costs about a million bucks for one {sigh}. I should really pursue that, though...I boogered up a couple of the windows, and also, some PO/PO-mechanic re-attached the hinge on my fridge access door with steel rivets of this sort...(that couldn't possibly be "factory"), so of course, they're rusty. so maybe I've got enough to justify pursuing this...(any of you aircraft metal workers out there reading this?)

anyway....
I got an idea for doing the door that I should have at least tried. (I had to give up and re-do mine 3 times, before I finally got it to stick. mostly. there are still a couple of loose spots that I should attempt to re-glue, if thats even possible. )
cut the gasket to length, find the center point, and clamp it to the top of the door with a couple of spring clamps. that way, it can just hang there, without worrying about any of it dragging on the ground, touching something it shouldn't, etc, etc. Then you can work on small sections at a time, and move along to the next area.
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:27 PM   #37
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Gkiesel- I have not done that one yet, and don't know what I'll do in the corners (same with door). I will probably practice bending the gasket to a 90-degree angle, and see if it tends to bunch up too much. If it does, I think I'd be tempted to cut the 45-degree corners, if it can be done accurately. If you get to it first, post here on how it went! I think Andy recommends bending it around the corner, not cutting it. -tim
yeah, you're not supposed to cut it. One mistake I made on the front window with those 90-degree corners is that I inadvertently stretched the gasket too much going around the corner. this wound up distorting the gasket too much, making it too "flat", so it doesn't fill the gap. It might not have, anyway, as my window sash and frame are both a little bit bent up. (seems my trailer had some frontal trauma, at some point.) but the stretched gasket certainly doesn't "help" any.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:07 PM   #38
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yeah, you're not supposed to cut it. One mistake I made on the front window with those 90-degree corners is that I inadvertently stretched the gasket too much going around the corner. this wound up distorting the gasket too much, making it too "flat", so it doesn't fill the gap. It might not have, anyway, as my window sash and frame are both a little bit bent up. (seems my trailer had some frontal trauma, at some point.) but the stretched gasket certainly doesn't "help" any.
DO NOT CUT the square corners.

They will leak.

Ask the Airstream factory, after they shipped out several hundred windows that way, because someone in production (who makes the windows) thought it looked neat.

Bend the gasket to go around the corners. Always have the seam at the bottom of the windows, access doors and the entrance door.

The 90 degree bend can be done with the original double flared gasket as well as with the "D" gasket.

But the surface "MUST" be chemically clean.

Solvents are not needed.

Cut off the old gasket best you can. Don't try to remove all of it.

A simple wire wheel in an electric drill, does the complete trick, removing the remains of the old gasket off the window sash (frame).

Please have someone hold the window for you, so it doesn't slip away from you when you hit the sash with that wire wheel.

Saves time, money, and no smells to put up with either.

Total time to remove the window, cut the old gasket off, wire wheel or burnish the rest off, cut the gasket, apply the adhesive to both surfaces, install the gasket, firmly press the gasket in place, reinstall the window, takes about 45 minutes.

A couple of days later, open all the windows and flood the gasket with silicone spray.

Close the windows.

A couple of days later, again, open the windows and wipe off the excess silicone spray.

Do a followup light silicone spray to all the gaskets once a year, and the gaskets "will" last a long long time.

Again, wipe the surplus silicone spray off in a few days.

That same prcedure can be used on your car or truck door and trunk gaskets.

Stops them from drying out and falling apart.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:04 PM   #39
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Lots of good advice from someone who's been there- thanks Chuck and Andy. Yeah, those hinges are finicky, especially on the wider windows where that J-channel on the top of the window tends to sag in the middle. I rub a little soap or wax on the J, line the 2 up, and then push upwards (hard!)with one hand on the middle of the window J to get it to go up into the J of the window opening, while gently and slowly lowering the window with the other hand. So far no popped rivets. Still putting off the window and door, with the square corners...I do like the feel of the new gaskets- reminds me of the feel of closing an old VW Bug door, where your ears kind of pop.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:20 AM   #40
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Tphan, Did the front window, and wrapped the gasket around the square corner. Be carefull not to stretch the gasket as you go around the corner. Even with that, once I put the window back on I noticed a small area in the corner where the new gasket was not covering the window opening. So make sure as you go around the corner to get the gasket out close to the edge of the frame corner. The rest of the way around I had the gasket up against the inner edge of the frame. Once installed I had to center the window to get it to cover the window opening and adjust the closing mechanisms a bit tighter. I'm going to give it the hose test tonight, if it's no good I guess it's coming off and getting redone. good Luck, George
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:18 AM   #41
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Gkiesel- good luck with the hose test, post the results and a pic of that corner please. -tim
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:54 AM   #42
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Tim, Water hose test went well. We'll see how the driving down the road in the rain test goes. Sorry I am unable to post pictures at this time. George.
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