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Old 09-01-2008, 06:43 PM   #15
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The gasket on the door was that way when I bought it, I installed the deadbolt after I got the coach. And yes- it seems to function perfectly well that way, I've never seen a leak from it. It just seems to be more out of the way in that position, tucked into the corner of the jamb. So- I don't know which way I'll put the new gasket on yet. Speaking of which- so far (2 windows) I'm not super impressed with the adhesion qualities of the 3M glue that came with the gasket from InlandRV. By the time the glue is tacky on the last bit glued, the very first stuff glued is almost too dry- and I too did exactly as directed on the back of the tube: a thick, uniform coat on each surface. It especially seems to not adhere super well to the gasket: I noticed on a little test piece of gasket I glued onto some cardboard that, a 1/2 day later, if I wrenched the gasket off, it separated cleanly from the glue beneath! I sounds like you (Balrgn) spread another layer on the metal before "contact"- does that help significantly? I also made a jig to hold the gasket while glueing, after struggling to keep the first piece (small window) from adhering to the table, getting dirty, etc.: I ripped a piece of 1/8" plastic I had laying around to about 1&1/2" wide, and then stapled it sideways to a 8' piece of plywood, with about 3/4" of the plastic edge sticking up, on which you can lay the fins of the gasket to hold it for glueing. Helped immensely! But I have to say, this whole thing is somewhat messy, somewhat of a pain in the butt, and somewhat unsatisfying- I don't yet know whatever tricks there are to ensure PERFECT and NEAT adhesion of the gasket. And it looks to me like the PO (or factory) used something other than contact cement- and that stuff held extremely well. Anyway- not the funnest thing I ever did on a vintage AS.... but it looks like it'll work. I also used a spoon handle to press down the gasket, between the fins, after Contact- you can press very hard with it, which seems to help the adhesion. -tim
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:55 PM   #16
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Adhesive

The 3M black adhesive we use, is about the best money can buy.

We have never had a complaint that it did not hold.

Has anyone else had a problem with it not holding?


Andy
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:44 PM   #17
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So- anyone got a pic of their 70's door with the gasket correctly installed? What happens at the hinge area- isn't that kind of leak prone? -tim
Ask and you shall receive! Here are pictures of the door of my '72 Tradewind. Judging from the condition of the weatherstripping, it is original and is, as far as I know, correct. Even with it in fairly poor condition, I get no water ingress.





This is the only weatherstripping that is located on the frame itself.



At the hinge with the screen door closed



At the hinge with the screen door open





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Old 09-01-2008, 09:59 PM   #18
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I've had a problem with the yellow adhesive but not with the black that Inland recommends. We didn't do a real thick coat - just a consistent smooth coat on both surfaces. Let it dry - then another quick thin coat on the gasket and install it. Sometimes at the cut you'll have to hold it in place for 30 seconds or so - put your cut at the bottom of the window.
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:43 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=cameront120;611355]Ask and you shall receive! Here are pictures of the door of my '72 Tradewind. Judging from the condition of the weatherstripping, it is original and is, as far as I know, correct. Even with it in fairly poor condition, I get no water ingress.

I see two things that are a problem with the gaskets and/or door.

Someone has installed a gasket at the top of the door jamb.

That suggests that it was done to stop a water leak, because the door is slightly warped.

The door gasket should never be cut at the lower corners. That's a leak area.

Bend the gasket around the bottom corners when you replace it. The only seam you want is at the very bottom of the door.

That seam can be made "seamless" if you apply some of the adhesive to both ends of the gasket at the bottom of the door. Hold the ends apart until the adhesive is dry to the touch. Then stick the two ends together.

I cannot tell anything about the remainder of the gasket, since there isn't a close up photo.

When you replace the door and window gaskets, we recommend using the "D" shaped material, since it does a superior job, over the double flared gasket.

Also, the screen door gasket should be installed all the around the screen door, even in the hinge area.

Andy
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:10 AM   #20
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Cameront120- Thanks! That's what I was looking for, and I'm going to do the door last so I feel like I know what I'm doing by then. Both Ganglin and Balrgn have suggested adding a 2nd coat of adhesive to the gasket just before Contact, which I will try on the 3rd window. I wonder if the extremely low humidity here in Colorado is the reason for the glue drying out almost too fast, and losing some of it's tackiness-? Andy also has some good tips for installation, though doesn't mention the 2nd coat trick (Nor does the tube instructions, for that matter). Oh well- there are always variables of temperature, humidity, timing, and skill (lack of it) when working with contact adhesives and I guess I'll figure out the best method by the time I'm done! Thanks to all for suggestions and pics- appreciate it! -tim
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:47 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The 3M black adhesive we use, is about the best money can buy.

We have never had a complaint that it did not hold.

Has anyone else had a problem with it not holding?


Andy
yeah. Me.

But I thought I was the only one. (the only one I've seen here, on the forums, grumbling about it...until now). So I figured that I must have been doing something wrong...and I'm sure I was; just not sure exactly "what".
I actually had better luck with the yellow stuff, although, it too was labeled '3m super weatherstrip adhesive". don't know if there's any "real" difference, other than the color....

Oddly enough, the windows came out perfectly. no problems there, at all. I only had trouble with the door. I can only think that it has to be in part because a single 10-foot length of gasket is very awkward to handle, or something like that. I had it stripped down to absolutely bare shiny metal. Maybe it would go better if I could easily pop the door off, and lay it flat on a bench. (like I could do with the windows).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that in this era, with this door design, that leaking wouldn't be a huge issue, as the door jamb/frame is a single, solid casting. If water gets behind the gasket, it hasn't got much of any place to go, except down, and out. (*except along the top edge; water could drip to the inside of the door, then fall on the floor, but it would be very plain to see). There are 2 large phillips head screws in the threshold area; I suppose water could permeate that.

fwiw, the gasket doesn't interfere w/ my factory door latch, or aftermarket deadbolt.
I think I did put a small cut in the gasket behind the door hinges, as the "squeezing" put there was peeling the gasket off above and below the hinge. just cutting the "fins" was enough to remove that added tension.
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:55 AM   #22
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Chuck, have you any pictures of your deadbolt? Was it difficult to install?
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:05 AM   #23
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I don't. A PO installed it, or had it installed. I thought it was a factory item, until I'd seen pictures of how to do it posted here. it looks that slick.
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:07 AM   #24
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My pics in this thread show the deadbolt I installed, following the advice of another member. They are not particularly hard if you have the right tools, and maybe some experience with accurate measuring, drilling, etc. but it is a bit SCARY- there's really not a lot of room for error! I've been installing them in residential doors for years and still had butterflies contemplating drilling that big a hole in the exterior skin. Go slow, think things through (twice!), measure (thrice!), breathe...
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:13 AM   #25
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That whole "measure twice, cut once" thing always messes me up!
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:16 AM   #26
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Tim, that looks like a really nice clean assembly that you installed. Does the deadbolt have a blank plate or a thumblatch on the interior of the trailer?
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:22 PM   #27
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It has a thumb-latch so you can lock it from inside if you want. It also functions as a screen door lock, keeping not-too-determined folks out when the main door is open. I'll post a pic of the jig that holds the weatherstrip for glueing-up. I tried the 1st one without it, wasn't ideal. I just did the 3rd window, and the glue remained tackier for longer so it stuck well, 1st try. Maybe because it's quite a bit cooler today?
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:33 PM   #28
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The apply a coat to both parts and let it dry - then reactivate the adhesive with another light coat on the gasket comes from weather stripping cars. Those instructions are also on the tube I have..?? See link for example. Isn't rebuilding windows a blast.... your jig idea is great...

Weatherstripping glue - Vintage Mustang Forums
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