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Old 06-07-2009, 09:53 PM   #15
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I found getting the little pin out to be the most difficult part of removing the lifters. After attempting a knife, small screwdriver and other thin tools that a set of side cutters actually did the best job. After a good cleaning and greasing they work as good as new.

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Old 06-22-2009, 07:48 PM   #16
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1964 26' Overlander
Kearney , Missouri
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Removing lifters on solardome

Is there a pin connecting the lifter to the pivoting mounting bracket and if so do you have a picture of this? I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the lifter out of its holding bracket?
Thanks
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:15 PM   #17
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64 Overlander. Here are a couple pics I took when I pulled mine apart. Just leave the bracket riveted to the vent frame.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:18 AM   #18
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1964 26' Overlander
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Removing corrision from lifters

I have finally removed the lifters. I left them in the bracket where it pivots up and down and then drilled out the rivets attaching the bracket and lifter to the frame of the vent. The lifters currently do not go up and down and appear "stuck". They are currently being soaked in WD-40, however if this does not work does anyone know of an alternative? They seem pretty "frozen", one even had a mud dobbers nest in it.
I noticed the rivets I drilled out to remove the lifter and bracket had a smooth domed top. Does anyone know of a rivet to approximate this?

Thank you for the input.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:53 PM   #19
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1964 26' Overlander
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LaDue Lifters Frozen

I tried soaking the LaDue lifters in WD 40 for 3-4 days with no success. Is there anything else out there that might work? Has anyone used Calcium-Lime-Rust remover on these? I hate to lose these plus I need to get the rear vent and astrodome replaced ASAP. I'm trying to stay original if possible. There is a rivet on the side of the lifter near the top has anyone drilled this out and pulled these apart and then put them together again successfully? Is there some sort of schematic available to look at these? I take it LaDue no longer manufactures these? If not does anyone have 3 lifters they might be willing to part with?
Thanks
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:42 AM   #20
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. . . There is a rivet on the side of the lifter near the top has anyone drilled this out and pulled these apart and then put them together again successfully? Is there some sort of schematic available to look at these? . . . .Thanks
Hi 64 Overlander:

It is a relatively soft rivet. Don't drill it out of the housing, as you will have to use it again (and put it back in) during reassembly. Instead, take a sharp pointed tool like a knife or sharpened small blade screwdriver and pry that soft rivet out by getting under and lifting up on its edges as you go around the top edge of the rivet while flooding it with liquid penetrant or lubricant to make it come out easier. It's a "plug" that makes the lifter work.

Instead of WD40, use a penetrating liquid. I like Kroil (KanoLabs.com), which helped me get most lifters apart after a while of soaking (but there is still one that Kroil has not yet loosened up). Patience and being gentle yet firm is the key here. You also might try CLR and let us know whether it works (I have not yet tried it). It's aluminum corrosion gumming up the works inside the lifter.

The bottom of the lifter "snaps" into the two bottom arms of the mounting bracket, so if you gently pry the two bottom bracket arms apart, the lifter should just fall out.

Good luck, and be patient.
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:14 PM   #21
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Ladue Lifter Redux

I hope this helps someone as I've had a heck of a time figuring these things out. Here is a picture I just took when I finally managed to get one of my lifters completely disassembled. Wish me luck putting it back together. By the way, I have to thank Rob Baker for posting a similar picture on his blog that helped me understand how these things work.
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:56 PM   #22
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LaDeau Lifters

I have finally referenced the correct spelling for the lifter off of the aluminum handle at the bottom. It states manufacturing site is Louisiana, must be Cajun. I finally removed the rivets off of the lifters after much difficulty. There appears to be significant corrision internally as well as the outer hinge. The square part at the bottom of the lifter where the aluminum handle attaches, how does it attach to the spiral tube, through a pin or by direct attachment? CLR is not recommended on aluminum according to the rear label on the package I just checked. Is Kroil available locally through national chains or directly by mail only? How long does it take for it to impact on significant corrision problems?
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:59 PM   #23
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LaDeau Lifters

Here is a picture of the lifters without the rivets.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:00 PM   #24
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LaDeau Lifters

How do you remove the top hinge from the cylinder assembly?
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:25 PM   #25
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64 - the top hinge came off of my lifter assembly voluntarily (i.e. I was not trying to remove that part). If it is not loose, I would leave it alone. They are simply pressed onto the top of the inner cylinder of the lifter assembly and hammered into place. It is a weak point in the assembly and three of the six lifters I'm working on came apart.

As far as the square part at the bottom (where the handle attaches), it is attached to the cap that is pressed onto the bottom of the tube. When the spiral cylinder comes out of the tube, the square part is still attached to the tube. I think you might be able to take the bottom cap off also with the right tools (but I haven't figured that part out yet).

Have you been able to move the cylinder out of the tube at all? Mine were pretty well stuck. I had already tried several weeks soaking in WD 40, PB Blaster and Corrosion X (all at different times), so I resorted to force. I slipped a screw driver into a the spiral slot that was still visible above the top of the tube and pried against the tube (not an ideal method). It predictably damaged the tube a bit, but I was able to file it down and they now operate smoothly.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:41 PM   #26
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How do you remove the top hinge from the cylinder assembly?
DON'T!! Leave it on and be thankful the top hinge is still attached to your riser (the small diameter cylinder). Drill out the rivets on the hinge that hold the small scrap of aluminum to the hinge and clean up the hinge in place so it will be ready to attach to the new vent cover. If the hinge is detached from the riser, then the lifter is broken and very difficult to repair. I don't know how the hinge could be reattached to the riser.

You can remove the cylinder from the bracket by gently prying the bottom of the bracket away from the cylinder one side at a time. The bracket holds the bottom of the cylinder in place solely by pressure. The top of the cylinder is loose inside the bracket semi-circle. If you pull the top of the cylinder away from the bracket, it should come out and pivot down and around the bottom of the bracket.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64Overlander View Post
. . . The square part at the bottom of the lifter where the aluminum handle attaches, how does it attach to the spiral tube, through a pin or by direct attachment? . . . Is Kroil available locally through national chains or directly by mail only? How long does it take for it to impact on significant corrision problems?
The round cap at the bottom of the lifter is attached to the square drive for the handle; they turn as one. The round tube is held into the small cap by pressure; its a pressure fit. The handle, small cap and round tube all revolve together as one unit.

The two piece spiral interior of the lifter is fixed in place by being riveted to the vent cover. It does not spin. But when the tube spins, the soft rivet (that you have just removed) works against the lubricated spiral interior tube and causes it to rise and lower, depending on which direction the handle is turned.

Now that you have removed the soft rivet, once the corrosion is defeated, the spiral interior tube could (in theory) be pulled straight up and out (but NOT by the hinge, which is why some of them break off) . I have no idea whether it will work or simply cause damage, but you might try to remove the corrosion by soaking the assembly in some Coca-Cola for a while.

Kroil is availble only by mail order from KanoLab, and likely can be ordered via the web site. Be gentle . . . be patient . . . and good luck!
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Old 07-13-2009, 06:58 AM   #28
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1963 24' Tradewind
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I replaced the astradome on my Tradewind over the weekend. The brackets needed to be massaged to permit the lifting mechanisms to lean outward an extra 1/4 inch on both ends to reach the meat of the embedded metal plate. I drew a template of the curvature and then moved it back the 1/4 inch. I used a cutoff wheel to remove the majority and then finished with a sanding wheel on the Dremel and a file to remove the burr.


I'm going to replace the 14 x 14 in the rear with a Fantastic Fan. If anyone wants the lifters, which do work, from the original fan you are welcome to them for the postage.
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