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Old 09-08-2014, 08:02 PM   #1
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2002 30' Classic S/O
Melbourne Beach , Florida
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Remount/reseal Fantastic Vents

OK, I have pulled the leaking vent and DW cleaned it up. I cleaned off the roof, but I don't think a conventional mounting job is going to do the trick.

There are two sets of holes and three different sealants visible. The center front mounting hole is stripped out and, as is, will require an up sized fastener. The skin is bent in several places where, coincidentally the third sealant, sticky and gummy like silicone, has been applied, perhaps from the inside.

I'm thinking I will take some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock and make some backing plates to go under the outer skin to catch the mounting screws. I think the skin is probably conforming to the flat flange anyway so the backing plates shouldn't make any difference with the shape of the skin. The backing plate should ensure a good seal between the flange and the skin.

Any reason not to do this, or alternate solutions?

Thanks,

Al
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2002 Classic 30 Slideout
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2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:12 PM   #2
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Bump.....
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Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO
2002 Classic 30 Slideout
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2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
WBCCI 1322, TAC FL-39, AIR 82265

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Old 09-09-2014, 04:34 PM   #3
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1999 34' Excella
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I had the same situation on my 2000 Safari. The original installer had cut the fan opening larger than it should have been and not squared. The metal on the roof is a lot thinner than the metal on the trailer sides, so it was not holding the screws. I also found that there was no frame around the perimeter of the opening. My solution was to rip a 2x4 down to the width of the space between the inner and outer skin. I put two long pieces from rib to rib on each side of the opening then filled in with blocking between those strip, creating a ~2x2 frame completely around the opening. I drilled a hole through one of the wood blocks for the wiring. This gave a good grounds for the screws and made the curve of the roof conform so the plastic frame is stressed less.
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:45 PM   #4
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a couple photos of my repair

2x2 frame being installed, still loose
Click image for larger version

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re-install old fan completed with new dome
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Fantastic will still provide a replacement dome for free if the original dome breaks during normal use. They sent two new domes for free. I paid ~$10 shipping.
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:55 PM   #5
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Thanks Alan. I was thinking about boxing it in but hadn't thought about the rib to rib thing. I have some wires running across the trailer in front of the vent. I could notch the bottom of the longitudinal frames. Did you do anything to attach the wood to the aluminum ribs? How did you assemble the cross pieces to the long pieces? I presume after you inserted the long pieces?

Thanks for the idea!

Al
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"You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"

Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO
2002 Classic 30 Slideout
S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
WBCCI 1322, TAC FL-39, AIR 82265

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Old 09-09-2014, 06:31 PM   #6
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That was more than a year ago, so my memory is not clear on the details. I do remember the wires going across at the front fan but do not remember any at the rear fan. The fan in the photo is over the bed in the rear. I assume I did cut a notch where needed. I did not fasten the long members to the ribs. At each end I notched/tapered slightly so that they set on top of the flange of the rib. I predrilled and screwed the frame together at the corners. The flange screws hold everything in place. I replace all the screws with stainless steel. ~$2 well spent, I think.
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