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Old 06-22-2006, 12:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
Andy in your picture the two holes in the "hinged" part of the opener is what I was talking about drilling the rivets out of. (where the operator attaches to the dome) Is that what you are referring to? On my '64 those are riveted to the dome, hence my direction to drill them out - however mine is a replacement from a P.O. somewhere along the line. (and it leaks where they re-attached the new dome with pop-rivets and some sealant over that)
The hinges are held in place with rivets.

Drill them out with a # 30 drill bit, "SLOWLY".

I was referring to the pins that hold the operator in place.

Andy
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Old 06-22-2006, 12:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gseverin
The hinges that attach to the plastic skylight lid are ok. I didn't want to
saw those. I plan to spread the bracket apart as suggested a couple of times above.

BTW Andy, what do new metal rectangular vents cost for that skylight opening....at Inland RV Center?

Art

Metal vent covers are no longer available.

Granted, they were cheap, but they don't let any light in.

Letting some light in is a good thing, be it milk white or solar gray(better).

Saves on the battery when your self contained.

Andy
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:36 PM   #17
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Non-stock bullet proof skylight

Here is how I did it. You need to make a little aluminum lip around the Lexan so the rain will not blow in when you are on the road. This is the material they use to make greenhouses out of. Hail resistant and very sunlight durable.
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Old 06-22-2006, 07:43 PM   #18
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The one I made is very similar to Dwight's but I used two sheets of lexan with a dead air space between to act as a thermal barrier against the AZ sun. I also replaced the screen with shade cloth. Makes a tremendous difference.

Here's a cross section.

Brad
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:37 PM   #19
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If your vent is the 14x26 I highly recommend the one sold by Vintage Trailer Supply. It's fiberglass with a metal insert where the operator attaches. I had two bad experiences with the ones Inland sells. First one cracked while I was riveting the operator to it so I ate the cost of that. Second one was installed with no problem and it proceeded to crack on its own a year latter. It is a type of plastic that can not be repaired (according to Inland ). The Vintage product is of very good quality , for the price it would be hard to duplicate by the time you bought the materials. Also it looks really good on the vintage trailers. Nothing against Inland just found a beeter product.
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63air
If your vent is the 14x26 I highly recommend the one sold by Vintage Trailer Supply. It's fiberglass with a metal insert where the operator attaches. I had two bad experiences with the ones Inland sells. First one cracked while I was riveting the operator to it so I ate the cost of that. Second one was installed with no problem and it proceeded to crack on its own a year latter. It is a type of plastic that can not be repaired (according to Inland ). The Vintage product is of very good quality , for the price it would be hard to duplicate by the time you bought the materials. Also it looks really good on the vintage trailers. Nothing against Inland just found a beeter product.
Our covers "can" be repaired, very easily. We have "never" said that they cannot be repaired.

Drilling through plastic is different from drilling through metals. Plastic drilling takes time and patience.

Part of the vent covers job, be it a Solardome or Astrodome, is to let light into the coach, be it solar gray or milk white.

Our products do that, with ease.

A fiberglass cover, that is gel coated, lets in zero light. Without gel coating, it would let in "brown" light. Not a very pleasant color for a living area.

Of the thousands of those covers that we have sold, maybe one person a year says they cracked it due to their drilling haste.

But to have two of them crack for the same owner, has never been heard of in some nine years.

Andy
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Old 06-28-2006, 10:45 AM   #21
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A few questions

First of all it did not crack during drilling, it cracked when it was riveted. Also when I called your company I was explicitly told it could not be repaired, why else would I order a second, ( $150 dollars was taking up too much room in my wallet- get real).

If it can be repaired what is the procedure- materials and method, this would be good for others to know in the event that I am not just a statistical anomaly.

The second one cracked about 6 months after installation . the problem was with your product not my installation.

Third time was the charm- I bought a product that I find to be superior to the one you offer and I highly recommend it to others!
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63air
First of all it did not crack during drilling, it cracked when it was riveted. Also when I called your company I was explicitly told it could not be repaired, why else would I order a second, ( $150 dollars was taking up too much room in my wallet- get real).

If it can be repaired what is the procedure- materials and method, this would be good for others to know in the event that I am not just a statistical anomaly.

The second one cracked about 6 months after installation . the problem was with your product not my installation.

Third time was the charm- I bought a product that I find to be superior to the one you offer and I highly recommend it to others!
What kind of rivets did you use?

The pictured solvent would repair your cover if it was cracked in half...

Again, no one has ever reported the problem you had.

Andy
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Old 06-28-2006, 02:12 PM   #23
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They cost lots of money. You can make up one from corregated Lexan cheaper and it will be more durable. It however will not look original.
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Old 06-28-2006, 02:51 PM   #24
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Let the sun shine in

Dwight and Brad,
Nice ideas.
Do you happen to have dimensions of the lexan and aluminum pieces you used?
Do your covers let sunlight in?

63air,
Does your Vintage Trailer Supply cover let sunlight in as original does?

Anyone found metal grommets the right size for the screen, where the control knob shaft goes?

Walter1
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Old 06-28-2006, 04:26 PM   #25
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A few answers

The rivets for the second one came from you (Inland )with the new dome. Again, let me reiterate , there never any mention of any product available for a repair. As to where they cracked , first one by the attachment point, second one - all over.

As to the issue of letting in light, the fiberglass is white gel coat and so it is somewhat translucent. Really, this is a moot point when you consider my trailer has 6 windows, 12v, and 120v systems. Light is not a problem!
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:25 PM   #26
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The gelcoat astradome that Vintage Trailer Supply sells is a very nice unit.

Although it doesn't let any light through, that may be a good thing if you like to sleep beyond the crack of dawn.

Regarding the operators themselves, I can't see how spreading the bracket apart will accomplish much, as the square shaft won't fit though the opening in the bracket.

I found if I pry out the pin at the top, the spiral guts come out of the barrel and everything is easy to clean and recondition with a little mineral spirits. Good as new, without bending nothin'.
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:10 PM   #27
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Following Darol's instructions, I replaced the vent lid with operators attached, to the vent opening frame in about 3 minutes. No drilling or hack saw, it was so simple and I couldn't figure it out . Thanks Darol

markdoane,

What I was trying to do was attach the complete operator " A " to the existing frame brackets " B ".

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But now I know how to disassemble the operator , thanks for the help,

Mark
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:45 PM   #28
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Of course my skylight let's light in, both pieces of lexan are clear. The birds like to dive bomb it and leave a mess. Sometimes I wish it wasn't so clear but then I wouldn't be able to see the stars at night.

Brad
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