Front Roof Vent - What is this?

[Jeremy9107]

Tyring to figure out what the wiring goes to in my front roof top vent... It's a 1970 Caravanner that I bought recently and it was missing the screen and vent cover. Does anyone out there know?

[Alumaholic]

At one time you had a combination hand-crank, operated vent cover, and 6-volt overhead light fixture. That circuit is most likely controlled by a wall switch by the door.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Alumaholic

At one time you had a combination hand-crank, operated vent cover, and 6-volt overhead light fixture. That circuit is most likely controlled by a wall switch by the door.

Did you mean 12-volt?
Most AS also had 12V for a fan to the roof vents to.
Use a meter to check and make sure of the voltage of the wires to be sure it isn't 120V.

[MarkE]

Yes, there would have, originally, been a 12-volt fan in that vent.
I believe it was controlled by a 3-way toggle switch located on the inside vent frame but, it appears that part of the vent is missing on your trailer.

[Alumaholic]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

Did you mean 12-volt?
Most AS also had 12V for a fan to the roof vents to.
Use a meter to check and make sure of the voltage of the wires to be sure it isn't 120V.

Yes 12 volt. You don't have 120 VAC running to the roof vent.

[Jeremy9107]

I have 2 switches by my door. One controls the inside ceiling lights. I thought the other controlled the light above the door on the outside but mine is missing so I can't check.

Does anyone have a picture if the vent/light that used to go in here?

[Ganglin]

Originally you had a cross member in the housing and a fan motor with aluminum blades. The wiring fed 12V to a three way switch, as mentioned above, that was mounted in the hole next to the wiring. It extended thru the frame of the vent screen. If you look at your rear vent it should have that same hole in the screen frame. The fan switch was off in the middle and then high/low in opposite directions - there was no light.

Unless your trying to stay vintage your better off to replace it with a Fantastic Vent. Replacing just the motor for the old fan is $64.95.

Vintage Trailer Supply has custom Fantastic Vents that match the ceiling curve and have a gray lid option to blend in with the trailer exterior.

Fan-Tastic Fan Vent

[Alumaholic]

Install a Fantastic Fan!

[tphan]

My '72 has the aforementioned vent fan, but the on/off function of it is controlled not by a wall switch or 3-way switch in the light housing but by a switch mounted to the crank assembly for raising the vent cover. When you raise the vent cover a certain amount, the fan turns on. It turns off by lowering the vent cover. I've kept it just because it is original to the trailer, and it works, but I'm sure a Fantastic fan would work better.

[DryFly]

My '70 Argosy has this, and I just pulled the whole thing and replaced it with a Fantastic. I've got all the parts from the original, don't know what to do with them.
As a side note, the factory did not install any blocking to support the assembly, and some PO walked on the roof near the fan and collapsed the roof at that point. What a PITA to fix. I think I've got it.
Another note, the ground wire for the original fan was attached to the ceiling aluminum panel with a standard steel screw. It lasted 40 years without galvanic corosion.

[VeggieBullet]

pm sent. I hope it helps

[Carolinda]

I have the same fan and a vent, too. Mine work great and I like the fact that the cover cranks up vertically without a hinge. Do you have the parts that afix to the ceiling--the garnish or trim piece plus screen? I would be interested in buying the parts if in ok condition.

[Jeremy9107]

I had a screen assembly but I sold it already. Sorry

[idroba]

Originally Posted by DryFly

Another note, the ground wire for the original fan was attached to the ceiling aluminum panel with a standard steel screw. It lasted 40 years without galvanic corosion.

The early Argosy's used the metal around the various 12 volt electrical equipment for the - side of the circuit. Airstreams of that era ran a full white - wire back to the fuse panel and battery to complete the circuits. Usually the metal ground works pretty well, but on my '74, 20' the pump was very slow and struggled to build pressure. When I ran a negative wire back to the battery the improvement was dramatic. The furnace also was helped with its own negative wire, not using the frame.