Fantastic Vent - fan not working

[05ModPod]

Wondering if anyone can help as Fantastic Vent are closed till the 6th and I live by my vents for airflow.

It is my rear vent fan. Rainsensor model.

fuse good
lifter arm motor good
on off switch good
But fan will not come on - not in IN or Out mode. Fan can move freely so no obstruction -
Not wet so rain sensor not kicking in as well tried with manual setting with lever pulled down and lid lifted manually - still does not activate fan.

So kind of a mystery.

Could it be the In and Out switch? if so are they replaceable?
Or could it be the thermostat? same question can I just get that part.
Or is the fan motor pooched?


My front vent was installed originally and the white inside mounting is cracked in the corners - do you know if they honour replacing that part. I would also like to have them change out the screen from the screw type to the snap in type which fits as the rear fan is newer and it has the snap in kind.

Any suggestions on the fan blade issue not turning?

[AtomicNo13]

Fantastic is a great company! They usually fix any problem for little more than the price shipping!
I'd start with the simple stuff, bypass/hotwire the direction switch ( a generic replacement can be found at Radio Shack, if not any name brand auto store will surely have one)
If that isn't the problem, move to the thermostat.
If none of this seems to be the problem, try to add 12 v to just the motor to see if it spins, if so, then the board is toast.
Good luck, going to be hot everywhere this week!

[AtomicNo13]

I have a few interior trip pieces, These are new, unused in both white and the off white. These trim surrounds are designed just for the AS, as they have a built in radius to match the radius of our roof. The Fan kits you buy at stores come with a flat trim.

Yours for the cost of shipping....

[05ModPod]

Thanks for the info and offer of your of the trim pieces AtomicNo13.

Since I have no clue how to hot wire - I was thinking of taking the switch from the front one and see if it works the back one if yes then ha it is the switch.

As for the thermostat - they usually are still working if you turn the dial right and you here it click at the temp of the inside coach and this one does.

So if the terminal is the same as the front one then I can check that after dinner and give a progress report.

Where are you located and what would the shipping be - could I pay you via payola? - I am interested in the white one.

Thanks
Sharon

[sandlapper]

Sharon, I am by no means a FF tech but I have been told that most of the time the trouble is with some sort of ground wire there at the fan itself. Look for a wire that seems loose or corroded.

Good luck.

John

[overlander63]

Check the plunger where the lid closes on it. Work it up and down several times to wear the corrosion off the contacts, and the fan should start working again. You will need to take the screen out of the fan, and reach up through the opening to work the switch with a small stick or screwdriver, or else climb on the roof to get to it.

[05ModPod]

Okay Fellas...

Sorry dropped off last night ate late and fell asleep and the fan was too complicated to work on that late.

Soooo I think I have now solved the issue.

As my front fan works fine and they have the same connections thought I would do a process of elimination. Too bad I did not start with the bum component ha So I had the fans apart three times!

I changed out the In and Out switch and the bad fan switch works in the good fan.

Put the good fan switch in the bad fan and it still does not work.

Put the good fan speed dial in the bad fan and it still did not work - fan would not come on.

When I put the bad fan speed dial in the good fan it also did not work meaning lid would open but fan would not come on. But when I put the good fan speed dial in the bad fan lid goes up but fan still would not come on either manual or auto.

So what does that tell me? My guess is...

That the board connection to that speed dial switch is bad? as well with the dial itself being bad? or is it just the board as I know the good fan speed dial works.

Can anyone enlighten me?

Thanks

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Check the plunger where the lid closes on it. Work it up and down several times to wear the corrosion off the contacts, and the fan should start working again. You will need to take the screen out of the fan, and reach up through the opening to work the switch with a small stick or screwdriver, or else climb on the roof to get to it.

Not sure what you mean here OV63 by "plunger" the arm that lifts the lid it works fine nothing obstructing. Lid has no problem going up and down on auto or manual - it is the fan that does not turn on when the lid is raised either auto or manual.

The speed dial if on 0 - fan does not come on - vent mode - but on 1 it should but does not either auto or manual.

[wkerfoot]

It is difficult to see the plunger from inside the trailer but easy from on top with the lip up. It is simply and on-off switch which turns off the fan when the lid it closed a certain amount. I had a similar problem with one of my fans and it was a sticky plunger.

Bill

Originally Posted by GT1963

Not sure what you mean here OV63 by "plunger" the arm that lifts the lid it works fine nothing obstructing. Lid has no problem going up and down on auto or manual - it is the fan that does not turn on when the lid is raised either auto or manual.

The speed dial if on 0 - fan does not come on - vent mode - but on 1 it should but does not either auto or manual.

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by wkerfoot

It is difficult to see the plunger from inside the trailer but easy from on top with the lip up. It is simply and on-off switch which turns off the fan when the lid it closed a certain amount. I had a similar problem with one of my fans and it was a sticky plunger.

Bill

But that does not explain why the bad fan switch does not work in the good fan - and it does not have a plunger issue. Do you think I might have two things wrong going on with this fan.

I don't know if I can get up on the roof with the ladder I have. Will have to see what the camp may have.

[Gene]

Open the windows for now and call FF tomorrow. The tech I talked to diagnosed our problems over the phone (would not close automatically, but would open; said it was the circuit board). He sent me a new kit for the cost of shipping (around $15 instead of the $100 for the kit). It'll take about a week to arrive. I don't understand what your problem is, but the tech may figure it out.

Gene

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Open the windows for now and call FF tomorrow. The tech I talked to diagnosed our problems over the phone (would not close automatically, but would open; said it was the circuit board). He sent me a new kit for the cost of shipping (around $15 instead of the $100 for the kit). It'll take about a week to arrive. I don't understand what your problem is, but the tech may figure it out.

Gene

That's what I'm thinking it is too - the circuit board went bad and then blew the speed dial switch along with it.

Will have to wait till the 6th as they are enjoying their holiday and I believe they are all out doing shows this week too.

My big problem is when the AC is not on I live by the fans - since I have a small trailer the air between the two is "fantastic" ha pun intended. But alas the back vent is always on the out position - as I cook in my trailer and it is great for keeping all the moisture and smells out - but the stink pipe to the bathroom is right beside it - so running only with my front fan will pull that stink in.

Alas your idea about opening windows will be the ticket - will keep the back window open at night instead for now - of course it has to be hotter than you know what out.

Thanks for all your help guys....guess I will have to be patient and wait for Bob Barrett to get back - he is a super nice guy and yep he will tell me what the issue is in a heart beat - bad timing on my part I guess

[Gene]

You can use the bathroom and shower fans too.

Gene

[StagrLee]

Wanted to updated this thread with photos. The "plunger" is just above the fan on/off switch. Electrically, the switch and the plunger complete the ground side of the motor circuit. Take the fan shroud screws off, let the fan dangle and spray the plunger with Contact Cleaner and Lubricant (lubricating contact cleaner). If you never had the shroud off, you will likely have to get the silicon off the power wires next to the fan on/off switch.

Part "1D" is the plunger.

Originally Posted by Gene

You can use the bathroom and shower fans too.

Gene

One thing I noticed with the bathroom fans is that it introduces a ton of interference into the TV reception!

Probably a bunch of arching in the brushes of those motors. The Fantastic Vent fan doesn't do that.

[BAB]

You really know it when you aren't able to pull the hot air out with your fan(s). They make a huge difference in comfort.

[Jim in Pima]

I just finished repairing my Fantastic Fan. The fan reversing switch was acting
strange, switch it and it might take several seconds to respond? Finally quit
altogether. Dropped the inner housing down, made a picture of the connections
and removed the wires and switch. Opened the switch up, just a spring mount holds it together. They have two rods on springs that move two copper plates to three positions. This is WELL greased. Removed these and copper plates rock on a center spindle, contact on either end. Well the grease melted and ran on to the
back of the plates and contacts, a good cleaning reassemble and all was fine.
(well almost, I put the top piece on in reverse, so now out is in, and in is out)

[Skiffdaddy]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Check the plunger where the lid closes on it. Work it up and down several times to wear the corrosion off the contacts, and the fan should start working again. You will need to take the screen out of the fan, and reach up through the opening to work the switch with a small stick or screwdriver, or else climb on the roof to get to it.

Worked like a charm for my fan problem.
Pushed the plunger down a few times (it was kind of crunch with corrosion at first) then gave it just a tiny squirt of WD40. Put the fan back together and it worked first time. Thanks for the good advice.

[StagrLee]

Originally Posted by Skiffdaddy

Worked like a charm for my fan problem.
Pushed the plunger down a few times (it was kind of crunch with corrosion at first) then gave it just a tiny squirt of WD40. Put the fan back together and it worked first time. Thanks for the good advice.

WD40 ruins electrical contacts and key locks. WD40 is oil based. Oils attract dirt like crazy (especially in fans) and oils don't conduct electricity. Also, when the connection arcs it will burn and leave carbon deposits on the connections. Electrical contact cleaner is the way to go here. If you like the WD40 brand, use WD40 300083 Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray.

[AtomicNo13]

Contact cleaner to remove the WD40 (evil bad stuff) then a little shmesr of light grease on the pin switch, will keep oxide from forming and working for many seasons.... A little DSB will do you!

[AtomicNo13]

Should be dab do you......