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Old 06-21-2006, 06:10 AM   #1
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Fan Install

I have a 72 23 foot Safari. Would like to know if there would be any problems mounting a Fantastic Vent between front light/vent and second one. I know I will have to cut new hole. Would like to keep the lights which are part of each factory vent on this model. Power would come from front vent. If I use front or second vent I would have to install new lights. Any comments appreciated.
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Old 06-21-2006, 09:02 AM   #2
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you might be able to do that; I can't remember the exact location or spacing of the ribs, though. might be one in the way. You should probably drop the ceiling pannel down to inspect, before cutting anything. I had mine down a year ago to investigate, and eventually replace the tv antenna.

The only big disadvantage I can think of, if there's room for a vent there, is that you'd be creating one more potential leak source.

I've had the same thoughts, though. "One of those fantastic vents would be neat...but what about the lights???" One possible solution would be to replace the front light with several of those halogen "hockey puck size" cabinet lights. maybe one on either side of the vent. They take 10 watt bulbs, and are made to run on 12v. you just dispense with the transformer that they come with, and wire them directly to the trailer's wiring. I'm not sure of the wattage on the auto-bulbs that are in the original fixtures...someone just told me the other day, and now I forget but anyway, the point of that conversation was that the halogens could provide the same amount of light for less amps than the originals.

I just bought a set of those from Ikea for my house; 15 bucks. you could take such a set and just tape them temporarily to the ceiling as an experiment...see if they're adequate.
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Old 06-21-2006, 09:10 AM   #3
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Thanks. I sent Andy an email at Inland RV last week. Hasn't answered yet. I have a couple of those halogen lights. Bought at Lowes. May try them. Once I install I will use Sikaflex 221 to seal around screws and outside edges.
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:04 AM   #4
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Can you install the light fixture in the same spot as the fantastic fan? You may have to get creative with mounting, and controls for the fantastic, but it would probably solve more proeblems than it would create.
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:17 AM   #5
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I wouldn't do it! Another source of leaks, and I don't think the original lights are that great--they're dim unless you get all six bulbs working, and that's a power hog. I'd replace an existing vent with a Fantastic, then use an 18" florescent for light. They're easy to install on the same 12V line as the previous light.

As a matter of fact, unless keeping it as vintage as possible is your goal, I'd replace the fore and aft vent with a Fantastic--on longer Airstreams with 3 vents I'd also remove the middle one and scab it over.
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:48 AM   #6
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I would not cut a new hole either use an existing hole and purchase new lights. We replaced our back bedroom light with a strip flourescent and the aisle lights with halogens. I purchased all from RV Surplus in Elhart, IN. WWW.rvsurplus.com (574) 264-5575. They have good prices ans service. We just put in a fantastic fan from Adhon http://members.aol.com/fantasticvent/index.htm They will ship you the Airstream trim piece with the fan and work with you step by step if you need it. Real nice people to deal with.
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:02 AM   #7
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If you do install the Fantastic Fans (and I think they"re great) You can save some money by not buying the top of the line with the rain sensor and install Maxi Vents over them instead. Besides cost, you can leave them open when tavelling and when in storage which will keep your trailer "un-stuffy".
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Can you install the light fixture in the same spot as the fantastic fan?
um...how would you do that? there'd be a fan in the way....

I found a couple of shots of these fixtures, for those who may not be familiar....
problem is that the light fixture, cover, and vent are all "integrated", so to speak. The fantastic fan needs a bigger hole; the existing fixture won't fit w/ the fantastic's hole and trim.





on a side note: anyone know how many watts those bulbs are? I think they're 1156 automotive bulbs..same as the backup lamps.
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Old 06-21-2006, 12:34 PM   #9
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Thanks for comments. I opted for the new Shurflo Fan Vent. Checked the Fantastic Garnish for theirs and it fits the Shurflo. I think I will put it in the middle location where the sink and stove are. Already have lights back there. I did use the little round halogen lights there. They worked out great. Have one over stove. My wife likes to see what she is cooking. It is in the 90's this week so I may wait awhile to install.
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Old 06-21-2006, 12:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K E Stabler
If you do install the Fantastic Fans (and I think they"re great) You can save some money by not buying the top of the line with the rain sensor and install Maxi Vents over them instead. Besides cost, you can leave them open when tavelling and when in storage which will keep your trailer "un-stuffy".
The directions that came with my Fantastic Fan which i just installed said to not install a Maxi Fan cover or any other type of cover over the top of the fantastic Fan. Have you done this with good results? I opted to not get the rain sensor and am already regretting that decision.
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Old 06-21-2006, 01:06 PM   #11
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I called an rv dealer about putting a maxxi cover on and he said that it would restrict the airflow and put undue strain on motor. Makes sense if opening in maxxi is not big enough.
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Old 06-21-2006, 02:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
um...how would you do that? there'd be a fan in the way....

I found a couple of shots of these fixtures, for those who may not be familiar....
problem is that the light fixture, cover, and vent are all "integrated", so to speak. The fantastic fan needs a bigger hole; the existing fixture won't fit w/ the fantastic's hole and trim.





on a side note: anyone know how many watts those bulbs are? I think they're 1156 automotive bulbs..same as the backup lamps.
1156 bulbs draw 32 watts each.

1141 or 1141 F (frosted) draw 21 watts each.

Airstream specified using the 1141 bulbs, only.

The 1156 bulbs draw far more current and could pop the fuses, as well as get entirely too hot for the ceiling light lens.

There is a huge difference in heat generated using 6 1156 bulbs (192) watts, as opposed to what Airstream specified 6 1141 bulbs (126) watts.

Same is true for the scare light.

Do not increase the wattage of the bulb. Granted they put out more light, but they also get hot enough to melt the plastic.

Andy
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Old 06-21-2006, 03:18 PM   #13
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well, that explains a few things.....

I have blown a couple of fuses...

battery doesn't seem to last too long when boondocking.....

holy cow! thats alot of wattage. even with 1141. (I might have 1141 in there; not absolutely sure. I don't recall every actually "buying" any...po left me a stash of spares. I'll have to double-check before my next outing, but I'm pretty sure the packaged bulbs in the drawer say "1156").

all the more reason to investigate halogen (or other) replacements. not that we do much boondocking, but you know...its nice to have the option.

now, I wonder how many of those halogen hockey-pucks it takes to replace the amount of light (lumens?) that these fixtures throw?
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Old 06-21-2006, 03:33 PM   #14
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let's vent

The Excella came with a single combined light & vent between the stove and fridge. Standard no-frills Fantastics were added to lounge in the front and in the rear bedroom. They work great. When it rains I close them The light set up on the original vent draws to much current and makes too much waste heat. I replaced each 3 bulb row with one 12" flourescent wired to the original switch so I can turn one or both on/ Plenty of light, no heat. Getting rid of all the incandesent interior lighting is a big help on battery drain and heat fatigue of the fixtures. The older the rig gets, the more likely that it will develop high resistance in the switches. Gettiing rid of the currrent load makes the old switches last much longer. 12v flourescents and L.E.D.s will just about cover all the bases for my money
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Old 06-21-2006, 03:43 PM   #15
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LEDs Are A Great Alternative

Check out this site and the incredible power and heat savings by replacing your existing bulbs and fixtures (halogens) with LEDS.

http://www.ledtronics.com/

Here in Maryland we're seeing an 87% increase in electric rates Jul1 and my household convenience lighting is estimated to cost around $75/mo with a $450/ avg bill!

I'm installing 2 of these LED units in each room of my house and a solar panel to charge the battery. I'm wondering if I should go out and buy a housesize Dometic since our gas prices are NOT going up. Now if I could just get a propane microturbine to cover the AC load! It maybe cheaper to generate my own local power using propane at these rates.
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Old 06-21-2006, 03:50 PM   #16
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Watts that?

1156 bulbs put out 32 Candela- a measure of the amount of light.
1141 bulbs put out 21. A difference of 52%

1156 bulbs consume 2.1* amps at 12.8 volts*. That equals 26.9 watts (power)
1141 bulbs consume 1.4 amps at 12.8 volts. That equals 18.4 watts or a difference of 46%

As Andy pointed out, the brighter 1157's creat more heat and are hard on the fixtures.
* nominal design values
Tungsten filaments are devices that turn electricity into heat and emit light as a by-product
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Old 06-21-2006, 04:08 PM   #17
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holy cow! the led replacements for the 1156 bulbs are 40 bucks each!

3 fixtures, 6 bulbs each....$720

I'll light a %$#* candle, first.

or buy one of those sporty honda generators. yikes....


So, how many "candelas" in a 10w halogen?
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Old 06-21-2006, 04:24 PM   #18
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Quote:
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holy cow! the led replacements for the 1156 bulbs are 40 bucks each!

3 fixtures, 6 bulbs each....$720

I'll light a %$#* candle, first.

or buy one of those sporty honda generators. yikes....


So, how many "candelas" in a 10w halogen?

Some time back, Airstream had some replacement fixtures for the square 17" ceiling light assemblies, that had two 12 volt flourescent bulbs in them.

I will check and see if they are still available, and report back on another post.

Andy
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Old 06-21-2006, 06:50 PM   #19
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After doing some research on 12 volt fluorescent lights I have come to the following conclusion. They are expensive, except when you take a fixture that was not made for an rv an take out the bulbs and electronics. Ones with 12 inch bulbs would work great in the fixtures like mine and the ones in the 73. 6 incandescents for 2 fluorescents. I like the little halogens for spot lighting.
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Old 06-21-2006, 08:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
The directions that came with my Fantastic Fan which i just installed said to not install a Maxi Fan cover or any other type of cover over the top of the fantastic Fan. Have you done this with good results? I opted to not get the rain sensor and am already regretting that decision.
Am I missing something? Why not just install the MaxxFan in the first place and get both features in one unit!!! And they don't need no stinkin' rain sensor!!
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