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Old 10-20-2003, 10:44 AM   #15
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Inland RV vent cover part

here's what's available.
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/83608-stoveventcover.jpg
$ 43.95 on sale.
The proportions in the pic. don't look right (not long enough? ).
Obviouslly you cut the flange to fit but if this doesn't look like a factory orig. when done - might as well use a dryer vent.
Anyone seen one of these up close and personal??
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Old 10-20-2003, 11:16 AM   #16
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Part number 83608, is an exact copy of the original Zip Dee replacement vent cover.

The long flat part is designed to accomodate a Zip Dee awning.

There is no cutting or trimming necessary.

Andy
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Old 10-20-2003, 06:19 PM   #17
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Andy:
Are you saying these are a replacement for the one JimC posted ?
If you add a Zip Dee then you use this vent as a replacement ?
What if you don't have an awning?
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:08 AM   #18
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Creampuf,

Were you serious about a dryer vent? I haven't looked at that possibility.

I just ran out to look at the A/S, and if I installed an awning on the street side, the original vent cover would be in the way.

It's likely that a 83608 vent cover will appear on the TT.

Jim
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:41 AM   #19
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Murray.

You are correct.

Andy
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:44 AM   #20
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Streetside??

Jim :
The awning rail is on the curbside.
I was looking at all the alternatives and a dryer vent was the first obvious one to me - being a handyman!
I think I will carve a pattern out of blue styrofoam or wood and make a new one with fiberglass. I don't have an awning.
IF I do this maybe I'll produce a couple of 'em or make the mould available for others.
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:50 AM   #21
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Creampuff,

Diffrent trailer, diffrent floorplan. The kitchen is not always on the curb side. 60's Bambi, Safari, Caravelle on the curb. Trade wind and some overlanders on the street. Other overlanders and the Ambassador and soverign seem to be a mixed bag.
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Old 10-22-2003, 09:19 AM   #22
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Murray,

If you make a mold and fiberglass cover I would be interested learning the process. I've never seen it done, but realize it is usefull for things like this.

Rob,

You've done it too. Can the steps be adequately described in the forum?

Can anyone reference written material that would get me started?
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Old 10-22-2003, 01:27 PM   #23
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Jim,

I was able to rehabilitate ours by removing all damaged material and glassing over the existing PVC/ABS (it's not fiberglass). I'm comfortable with fiberglass & polyester resin because I owned a surfboard glassing business in my early days. I think it might be difficult to describe all the steps on the forum here due to the craftsmanship nature of it all. Give me a call any time and I'll walk you through the steps (I emailed you my cell phone number).

Rob Davis
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Old 10-22-2003, 10:33 PM   #24
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I'll let you know if I do mine. You can learn the process if you are at all handy.
BTW , how is that tractor as a tow vehicle- you got that baby bored and stroked??
Is that a Massey Ferguson or a Fordson?
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:03 AM   #25
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I agree Murray...it's not difficult to do, just difficult to explain in writing.

Below are the end results ~

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Old 10-23-2003, 12:45 AM   #26
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~
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:48 AM   #27
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All done and ready to be reinstalled. Hopefully we'll get another 39 years out of them

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Old 10-23-2003, 09:35 AM   #28
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Murray,

The tractor is a 51 Ford 8N. It was my first restoration (rebuild) project. I came to believe in stewardship while working on the 8N. There is no reason that it can't out live me, or certaintly my need for it. I can make a profit when I sell it, but I feel obligated to pass it on in better condition than I got it. I'm coming to feel the same about an Airstream, but I'm not sure there is any profit in it. We don't go very fast under tow, but it sure is easy hitch up. It is most usefull for raising or lowering the front when I work under the trailer.

Rob,

I'll contact you about glassing. Thanks.

Jim
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