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Old 09-26-2009, 06:50 PM   #1
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1964 22' Safari
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enosburg , Vermont
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'64 fridge vent

I need some advice on the roof vent for the fridge on a '64 safarie. Mine was converted to elect only and the vent removed and patched. I ordered a vent from vintage supply, looks fine but its obvoisly only a cover. Can anyone tell me if you just extend the interior vent above the roofline to just under the new cover and screen it, or is it more elaborate than that?
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Old 09-27-2009, 01:17 AM   #2
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Our '64 has a plastic vent that goes from the fridge to the roof - then the VTS cover sits on the outside. It's a good idea to have some kind of screen to keep the critters out...

Do you still have the plastic shroud/vent on the inside? If not, you'll need to get one - either from a donor trailer or new. I have also seen a couple of pretty cool custom vents in lieu of the original plastic one...aluminum, wood, copper - lots of options.

Shari
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:49 PM   #3
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Vent and Cover

putback,

Our 64 Safari fridge vent cover was pretty rough, so we replaced it with the aluminum cover that VTS sells. Note the VTS cover is a few inches longer than the original. Depending on how the roof was patched, you may not need to shorten the new cover. The vent from the plastic duct penetrates the roof and extends about two inches, leaving a gap to the cover. If you need a precise measurement, I can pull out a step ladder and get it for you. I've attached a couple of photos, showing shortening the cover and of the exhaust extension above the roof. Let me know if you need anything else.

Roy
64airstream.com has some of these photos under the "Restoring" button.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:25 PM   #4
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enosburg , Vermont
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Thanks folks. The plastic interior vent is OK, but may change it to something along the lines of insideouts' post. Was'nt shure about the short section through the roof, wondered about a "gooseneck". 64 airstreams 3rd photo do'es the trick. I'll also follow up on the Aluminum vent, the one I got is plastic & looks it! One more problem solved, thanks agian..
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:04 AM   #5
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I have the same problem. When they covered over the vent, they made it flush with the roof, so I don't have an exhaust section that protrudes from the roof. What should I do? Is there still a way to mount a roof vent over the hole?

Thxs.
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:57 AM   #6
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Dejahardy13 - I'm on the dry side of the mountains, but let me dig through my piles of stuff, I may have the pieces that rivets to the roof that you're missing. You'd still need to order the vent cover as shown in the above posts but I don't know that anyone actually makes the "sleeve" that comes up, or whatever it is officially called.
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:05 AM   #7
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You'll definitely need an extension unless you live where it never rains or snows. It's not hard to fab one out of scrap aluminum. I would make it about 2 inches high. This picture is before the critter proofing and cover was installed.
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:50 PM   #8
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How did you accomplish critter proofing the extension and vent?

How did you guys cut/fab VTS cover to fit 64 Safari roof?
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Old 09-19-2010, 01:01 PM   #9
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How did you accomplish critter proofing the extension and vent?

How did you guys cut/fab VTS cover to fit 64 Safari roof?
The reefer vent "collar" which is the part that is covered by the cover, can easily be covered with a fine mesh screening. That keeps the bugs, etc, out.

The reason for the original hole in the underbelly, and then the floor behind the reefer, and then in the roof, is to create the "chimney" effect, so that the hot air from the reefer cooling coil could more effectively escape.

That also eliminated rain or sprinkler water from entering the trailer.

Later models, use a vented door on the outside of the shell, for cool air entry.

Unfortunately, that allows water to easily enter the trailer. The area on the floor and behind the reefer, was lined with metal so that the rain water did not get on the floor (you hope). Then the drain for that water was almost non-existent.

Sometimes, the old simple way, works the best.

Andy
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:49 AM   #10
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I live near Seattle, it rains all the time here. :-)

How do I attach the extension? I still have the hole in the floor with the wire mesh over it and there is an access panel where the fridge goes, I just don't have a key to it. What is the access panel for? It doesn't look big enough to serve much of a purpose.

BTW, What does VTS stand for?

Thanks for the information. I have so much to learn!

dejah
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Old 09-20-2010, 01:13 AM   #11
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VTS = Vintage Trailer Supply.com...the other guys with lots of small Airstream parts
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:30 AM   #12
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I live near Seattle, it rains all the time here. :-)

How do I attach the extension? I still have the hole in the floor with the wire mesh over it and there is an access panel where the fridge goes, I just don't have a key to it. What is the access panel for? It doesn't look big enough to serve much of a purpose.

BTW, What does VTS stand for?

Thanks for the information. I have so much to learn!

dejah
The extension (collar) is riveted onto the shell.

The reefer access door allows the LPG burner and the electric heating element to be serviced without removing the reefer.

The burner and orifice should be taken apart and cleaned every 2 years or so.

Andy
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