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Old 10-05-2015, 09:59 AM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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Hey aquinob thanks for the reply.. The pic aren't showing do you think you can reposting them?
Something must have happened to your links. I cant access the photos as I did before. As long as they are static, they should stay around. I use google picasa for hosting my photos, have never had an issue. If you put them in your gallery, you should be able to link back to them.
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:01 AM   #16
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aquinob, Thanks so much for responding to my post. The information you provided is right on the money perfect. Managed to work some on my windows this weekend between pastoring my church and taking care of the family. I managed to get half my windows cleaned and new wreathing striping on. Next is the vista view windows which doesn't look to be as easy.. Do the vista view windows only come out by removing them from the outside of the AS? Which would be drilling out the rivets?
Depends. I have one window on my '73 overlander that would have to be drilled out from the outside. The other stack window (similar to vista view) the inner and outer panes were removable from the inside. You can try and see if they have that big "C" ring that holds the panes in. That would probably be the key.
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:41 PM   #17
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1973 31' Sovereign
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I looked at this last night and I didn't see a C ring but it looks like it should slide out.. Do you have a pic of what one should look like?
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:08 PM   #18
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Here is a picture of my recent stack window removal, with the ring on the way out . . .

The rest of it came out just fine.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:34 PM   #19
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Wonderful.... After cleaning a tube of clear silicone off I could see the edge of the snap ring. Thanks so much for the information so glad for the airstream community and gleaming knowledge from the ones that have gone before.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:43 PM   #20
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What about the side windows in the front? Do they have a snap ring on will it need to be drilled?
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:49 AM   #21
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What about the side windows in the front? Do they have a snap ring on will it need to be drilled?
The front "side windows," or wing windows, on either side of the center window, have to have the rivets drilled out. On the center window side, you will see a vertical bar holding the two together, and this must be removed (bottom up) as well. There are two screws at the top and bottom that hold the frame together at the corners.

Some people buy the new single-pane wing windows to replace these. I am rebuilding mine. The street side wing window had a cracked front pane. You can't buy just the glass. I'm using a piece of glass from a newer single-pane version and putting it in the old frame with its mate. I like how the older frame fits back in the opening rivet pattern.

These older style wing windows have the same gasket and separation pattern as the upper vista views.
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:06 AM   #22
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Thanks youngpeck
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:00 PM   #23
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I am assuming the rivets for the outside wing windows are "Bulb-Tite 3/16 Rivets Flat Head 1.02 Length" The rivet shaver is a bit expenses do any of you know of a place on-line that might rent the tool? The cheapest I've found one is $200 to buy it outright.
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Old 10-07-2015, 11:25 PM   #24
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I am assuming the rivets for the outside wing windows are "Bulb-Tite 3/16 Rivets Flat Head 1.02 Length" The rivet shaver is a bit expenses do any of you know of a place on-line that might rent the tool? The cheapest I've found one is $200 to buy it outright.
You are describing an Olympic rivet. The wing windows should be buck riveted. You don't have to take off the inner skins to do this--the inner trim will come off, and is made to be removed so that the window's rivets can be removed and then new rivets bucked. You can pick up a good pneumatic rivet gun for much less than the price of a shaver. This forum is full of resources for learning how to do this. If I can do it anyone can! It's actually a fun skill to acquire. If you have a good air compressor you are on your way.

By the way, I picked up a used rivet shaver on Ebay a while ago for around $40. You might look there.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:26 AM   #25
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When I did the wing windows I used the olympic rivets. There are so many of them and using the trempro as the bedding compound, they won't be going anywhere. The trempro essentially acts like glue and holds them in fine.

As for shavers, I got one off the local CL as well, but the issue is the shaver bit. The only place I found that will sell the curved shaver bit is vintage trailer and they want about 145 for just the bit. I paid about 5 bucks for a straight bit and will live with a bit of a flat top on my shaved rivets. You can buy the drill end tool for 220. One place was doing a rental where you paid for the tool full price then returned it within 30 days and got most of your money back.

I've never bucked any rivets, I would imagine its not that hard. The wing windows would probably be good candidates. The downside to bucked rivets is you need full access to the back of the rivet and unless you are removing interior skins, you cant use them. So far everything I've done on this trailer has been with pop rivets or olympics which are just a specialized pop rivet.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:13 AM   #26
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When I did the wing windows I used the olympic rivets. There are so many of them and using the trempro as the bedding compound, they won't be going anywhere. The trempro essentially acts like glue and holds them in fine.

As for shavers, I got one off the local CL as well, but the issue is the shaver bit. The only place I found that will sell the curved shaver bit is vintage trailer and they want about 145 for just the bit. I paid about 5 bucks for a straight bit and will live with a bit of a flat top on my shaved rivets. You can buy the drill end tool for 220. One place was doing a rental where you paid for the tool full price then returned it within 30 days and got most of your money back.

I've never bucked any rivets, I would imagine its not that hard. The wing windows would probably be good candidates. The downside to bucked rivets is you need full access to the back of the rivet and unless you are removing interior skins, you cant use them. So far everything I've done on this trailer has been with pop rivets or olympics which are just a specialized pop rivet.

My shaver has a flat bit as well. It works okay, as you say. Ebay has them for under $10. I'm waiting to see if a curved one comes along . . . You are correct about bucking and needing access to the back. It so happens that we took all our interior skins out. I was under the impression that the wing windows could be bucked by removing the interior trim pieces. Not true?
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:08 AM   #27
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Finishing up my windows on my 1973 land yacht. I've managed to remove and clean all of them and add windows tint.. Big project and it's taken a good bit of time and installed a fantastic vent yesterday. Now I am working on the wing windows which seems to be a bit hard then first through. My wings have screen around the inside just like the rest of the windows but I can't get them loose.. Do you need to drill the rivets out on the outside?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:41 AM   #28
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Tint/UV

I am just starting on the same exact project on my 1973 Land Yacht 31'. So thanks for the tips in the thread. Just curious - did you replace with a tint yourself? And is it mirrored? And did you replace the inner plexiglass? I see the comment that it doesn't provide much insulation value, but wondering if that is true. Thanks!
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