Windows 101

[ScrapIrony-2]

We just got a 1968 Overlander, and several of the windows need to be removed, and resealed (they leak). I'm one of those "have to mentally visualize it" people, and I'm just not getting it.

[eubank]

Exactly which windows are you talking about? The solution will almost surely depend on the problem ...

Lynn

[TBKP's Overlander]

The windows have screws on the top inside of the frame. You have to the pry the outer piece away from the inside. The 2 pieces sandwich the window.

You sure you don't just need to change the weather-stripping?

[Cruiser]

We're looking at fixing/weatherstripping/polishing/rescreening the Hehr windows on our '52 Cruiser this summer. I'd love for them to turn out at least half as nice as the '56 FC on vintageairstream.com:

http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/re...n/windows.html

My questions:
1) Is it necessary to remove the windows in order to repair and reseal them? If so, how to do it? Does it mean removing all the rivets around the window? How are windows attached?

2) What is meant by "replacing the window gaskets"? Does this refer (in the case of the '50s models) to the rubber weather stripping around each window panel? to the rubber glazing seals set in the frame around each window pane? or to some sealing material where the window frame is riveted to the body panels? (or all of the above? )

Doug

[Inland RV Center, In]

Scrapirony-2

Your 68 windows, the ones that open, can leak for two reasons.

The first is that the gasket is shot.

The second requires injecting some silicone sealer within the moving part of the hinge. Open and close that window every 15 to 20 minutes or so, so that the silicone spreads out.

It is not likely that the window is leaking at the top of the glass.

Andy

[ScrapIrony-2]

Doug - Nice link! You brought up some good questions.

Out of 7 windows, 4 are leaking to some degree. I imagine that they all need to be resealed. They're the crank-open kind, and a couple are fixed bottoms with crank open tops. Is it just a matter of removing the exterior rivets, to remove the window?

See if I have this right....You remove the window, put the gasket either on the skin, or on the window frame, then put a bead of sealant around the gasket, then rivet the window back in. What is weather stripping? Is it like gasket and go under the window?

[Cruiser]

Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2

See if I have this right....You remove the window, put the gasket either on the skin, or on the window frame, then put a bead of sealant around the gasket, then rivet the window back in. What is weather stripping? Is it like gasket and go under the window?

Yes, Tracy, that sounds like what folks are saying. I'm not sure if this is the same for 50's models. I'm attaching a couple of photos. It seems that for our windows it would be sufficient to replace the old glazing bead and weatherstripping, and not have to remove the windows. Unless there is some sort of sealant (gasket?) under the riveted flange thing around the window frame that could be leaking. I'm not sure what "gasket" refers to or if it applies to the 50's models. I know even less about the 60's trailers (except that I want one!). What do your windows look like?

Doug

[ScrapIrony-2]

Thanks, Cruiser!

The small window next to the door, and streetside window, are both 2-part, with a fixed window on the bottom, and an awning-opening upper. The front window is awning- opening. The window over the sink is an "awning type". There are center twins, each with awning windows. I don't know about the back window.

[qbee]

I recently replaced the channel type weather stripping in a 78 argosy mh now the sliding glass is so tight that I can't lock the windows. where did I go wrong?

[53flyingcloud]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Scrapirony-2

Your 68 windows, the ones that open, can leak for two reasons.

The first is that the gasket is shot.

The second requires injecting some silicone sealer within the moving part of the hinge. Open and close that window every 15 to 20 minutes or so, so that the silicone spreads out.

It is not likely that the window is leaking at the top of the glass.

Andy

Say this again, Andy..

SILICONE???...Really?
After all the debates concerning the use of this product..
ciao
53FC

[Stefrobrts]

I just hunted down one of the few remaining leaks in my Caravel. Yesterday we had some terrible rainstorms, and I went into the trailer and discovered the back of the gaucho was wet! It's coming from the rear side window. The water is leaking in from high up on the window, high enough it is dripping onto the lever arm that pushes the window open. I'm not sure how to seal it.

I have good gaskets on the window, so I assume it is coming in from the hinge or higher. There is no bead of sealant across the very top of the window where it meets the skin, but it is that way on all the windows, and the others don't leak.

Andy, would you like to provide more details as to this fix you recommended?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Stephanie

The Phillips windows that were used in the 66-67 and 1968 all had a common problem.

They will leak through the "hinge," especially in a driving rain or on the highway.

The fix is simple.

Get a tube of (pardon the word) clear "silicone sealer."

Put a bead of it on the outside of the hinge, at the hinge pivot point. Fully raise the window. Next, and on the same window, install a bead of the sealer on the inside part of the hinge, again at the pivot point.

Depending on the weather and ambient temperature, open and close that window every 10 to 15 minutes. It's necessary to fully close the window, and let it rest for that time, then fully open the window, and again, let it rest for that time. It's very important that you keep on doing this for a couple of reasons.

First to spread the sealer, within the hinge. The second, is to kick out any excess sealer.

When the sealer has set, you can remove the surplus with a razor blade or such.

CAUTION: The windows must be opened, and then after some short period of time has gone by (10 to 15 minutes), they must be closed. You must keep this up for at least an hour or so, per window.

That is the "only" place on the exterior of any Airstream, silicone sealer has any value.

The hinge area must be clean. If you have used any lube on the window hinges, it must be remove before any silicone sealer can be successfully used.

That last thing to seal, with Vulkem, is the very top of the window frame.

If your having leaks on the curb side, also resealing the awning rail will usually be necessary as well.

Andy

[Stefrobrts]

Thanks, Andy! I'll give it a try and see how it goes. I sure will be happy to finally get all these leaks fixed.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Stephanie.

I should have added that the vista view and stack windows are also famous leakers.

Simply clean the glass to metal area.

Seal the stack windows with Parbond.

Seal the vista view windows with Vulkem.

You were not specific as to exactly where the water was coming in.

Let me know, and I will try to help you fix those leaks as well.

Andy

[Stefrobrts]

No vista views on the caravel, just the corning curved windows on the streetside, and the one in the kitchen. The leak is coming in the rear streetside window. I have been finding the floor wet under this window, around the wheelwell, for some time, but had not narrowed it down to find where it was coming from. A couple months ago we cleaned the seams and resealed them with Parbond, and I was hoping that was it. But now I saw water dripping in from the top right corner of this window.

I also occasionally get a mystery puddle on the floor right in front of the bathroom, in the center of the aisle. It is pretty much right under the bathroom light. Too far back to have come in through the vent. But I can't ever find any evidence of water on the ceiling, around the light, or on the doorway. Very odd. But I'm betting that one is the vent leaking. We need to climb up there and clean off the old sealant and re-do it. It looked like too much trouble when we resealed everything else and we were hoping we could avoid it, but it looks like it needs to be done.

No leaks on the curbside that I have seen, but we resealed the awning rail with Parbond just to be safe when we did the seams. How can I tell if I should be sealing with parbond or vulkem? Will I just have to re-do it sooner if I use the wrong one?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Stephanie

Have you removed the "sewer" vent pipe covers?

They also are leakers.

The originals are plastic. They are replaced with the polished metal types with new gaskets.

Not much else left.

Andy

[Stefrobrts]

I got the gaskets from you, then discovered that my covers were plastic and the gasket had to be trimmed quite a bit to fit. If these other things don't fix the leaks, or even if they do, I will probably replace those with the metal covers and new gaskets.

Thanks for all the advice!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Stephanie.

That gasket is not intended to be used with the original plastic covers.

It should only be used with the metal covers. Vulkem is also used from the inner circle of the gasket, through the screening and onto the black pipe.

Anything short of that is asking for a leak.

Andy

[fly2havefun]

I too, just ordered new vent seals and screens from Inland. I wish the service people would have told me that these didn't work with the old plastic vents! Is there a way to properly seal the old plastic vents? (I might have to replace the vents, but I sure wish I would have been told prior.) I would have ordered them along with the seals.

Also, what are the proper uses of the Vulkem and Parbond for sealing?

Thanks!

Becky

[Inland RV Center, In]

Becky.

Unfortunately, our girls must learn, in time, as we all must. They try, as all of us do, to avoid an in depth discussion, as to all the why's and wherefors.

It becomes very difficult for us to feel fault, just because a customer may choose not to replace something. That is not always the case, but it happens, everyday. I have been doing this for 38 years, and still find those that disagree as to "why" something should be replaced. Some owners have told me that they "will" make the gasket work on the plastic covers. I can only sit back and say, at a later date, "I told you."

We strive to do our best, when answering questions, but, sometimes the questions are never asked, by the owner.

Educating an Airstream owner, as to all the reasons something should be done, is an impossible task. We don't choose what they should replace, they do. Usually, telling someone what can and cannot be done, to their Airstream, becomes a thankless, depressing task, or may also create hard feelings. Therefore, human nature, in short order, takes over, and you soon avoid the exposure.

Of course, when things don't go correctly, it's always our fault. So be it. That happens everyday as well.

The original plastic vent pipe covers have been shot for years. We cannot force someone to replace them if they don't want to.

How can you "properly" seal a shot vent cover? It can't be done, unless you wish to create a Taj Mahal with vulkem. The gaskets for the new style covers are not designed for the plastic covers.

Vulkem is used for large seams. Parbond is used for small seams.

We are sorry that you feel let down.

Andy