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Old 04-10-2004, 11:28 AM   #1
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Windows 101

We just got a 1968 Overlander, and several of the windows need to be removed, and resealed (they leak). I'm one of those "have to mentally visualize it" people, and I'm just not getting it.
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Old 04-11-2004, 07:05 AM   #2
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Exactly which windows are you talking about? The solution will almost surely depend on the problem ...

Lynn
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Old 04-11-2004, 10:06 AM   #3
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The windows have screws on the top inside of the frame. You have to the pry the outer piece away from the inside. The 2 pieces sandwich the window.

You sure you don't just need to change the weather-stripping?
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Old 04-11-2004, 11:02 AM   #4
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Question Similar questions

We're looking at fixing/weatherstripping/polishing/rescreening the Hehr windows on our '52 Cruiser this summer. I'd love for them to turn out at least half as nice as the '56 FC on vintageairstream.com:

http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/re...n/windows.html

My questions:
1) Is it necessary to remove the windows in order to repair and reseal them? If so, how to do it? Does it mean removing all the rivets around the window? How are windows attached?

2) What is meant by "replacing the window gaskets"? Does this refer (in the case of the '50s models) to the rubber weather stripping around each window panel? to the rubber glazing seals set in the frame around each window pane? or to some sealing material where the window frame is riveted to the body panels? (or all of the above? )

Doug
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:22 PM   #5
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Scrapirony-2

Your 68 windows, the ones that open, can leak for two reasons.

The first is that the gasket is shot.

The second requires injecting some silicone sealer within the moving part of the hinge. Open and close that window every 15 to 20 minutes or so, so that the silicone spreads out.

It is not likely that the window is leaking at the top of the glass.

Andy
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Old 04-11-2004, 04:39 PM   #6
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Doug - Nice link! You brought up some good questions.

Out of 7 windows, 4 are leaking to some degree. I imagine that they all need to be resealed. They're the crank-open kind, and a couple are fixed bottoms with crank open tops. Is it just a matter of removing the exterior rivets, to remove the window?

See if I have this right....You remove the window, put the gasket either on the skin, or on the window frame, then put a bead of sealant around the gasket, then rivet the window back in. What is weather stripping? Is it like gasket and go under the window?
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Old 04-12-2004, 05:38 PM   #7
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Definition of gasket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2
See if I have this right....You remove the window, put the gasket either on the skin, or on the window frame, then put a bead of sealant around the gasket, then rivet the window back in. What is weather stripping? Is it like gasket and go under the window?
Yes, Tracy, that sounds like what folks are saying. I'm not sure if this is the same for 50's models. I'm attaching a couple of photos. It seems that for our windows it would be sufficient to replace the old glazing bead and weatherstripping, and not have to remove the windows. Unless there is some sort of sealant (gasket?) under the riveted flange thing around the window frame that could be leaking. I'm not sure what "gasket" refers to or if it applies to the 50's models. I know even less about the 60's trailers (except that I want one!). What do your windows look like?

Doug
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:08 PM   #8
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Thanks, Cruiser!

The small window next to the door, and streetside window, are both 2-part, with a fixed window on the bottom, and an awning-opening upper. The front window is awning- opening. The window over the sink is an "awning type". There are center twins, each with awning windows. I don't know about the back window.
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Old 04-22-2004, 11:50 PM   #9
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I recently replaced the channel type weather stripping in a 78 argosy mh now the sliding glass is so tight that I can't lock the windows. where did I go wrong?
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Old 04-23-2004, 02:25 AM   #10
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Cool Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Scrapirony-2

Your 68 windows, the ones that open, can leak for two reasons.

The first is that the gasket is shot.

The second requires injecting some silicone sealer within the moving part of the hinge. Open and close that window every 15 to 20 minutes or so, so that the silicone spreads out.

It is not likely that the window is leaking at the top of the glass.

Andy
Say this again, Andy..

SILICONE???...Really?
After all the debates concerning the use of this product..
ciao
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:46 PM   #11
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I just hunted down one of the few remaining leaks in my Caravel. Yesterday we had some terrible rainstorms, and I went into the trailer and discovered the back of the gaucho was wet! It's coming from the rear side window. The water is leaking in from high up on the window, high enough it is dripping onto the lever arm that pushes the window open. I'm not sure how to seal it.

I have good gaskets on the window, so I assume it is coming in from the hinge or higher. There is no bead of sealant across the very top of the window where it meets the skin, but it is that way on all the windows, and the others don't leak.

Andy, would you like to provide more details as to this fix you recommended?
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Old 06-07-2004, 06:39 PM   #12
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Window leak

Stephanie

The Phillips windows that were used in the 66-67 and 1968 all had a common problem.

They will leak through the "hinge," especially in a driving rain or on the highway.

The fix is simple.

Get a tube of (pardon the word) clear "silicone sealer."

Put a bead of it on the outside of the hinge, at the hinge pivot point. Fully raise the window. Next, and on the same window, install a bead of the sealer on the inside part of the hinge, again at the pivot point.

Depending on the weather and ambient temperature, open and close that window every 10 to 15 minutes. It's necessary to fully close the window, and let it rest for that time, then fully open the window, and again, let it rest for that time. It's very important that you keep on doing this for a couple of reasons.

First to spread the sealer, within the hinge. The second, is to kick out any excess sealer.

When the sealer has set, you can remove the surplus with a razor blade or such.

CAUTION: The windows must be opened, and then after some short period of time has gone by (10 to 15 minutes), they must be closed. You must keep this up for at least an hour or so, per window.

That is the "only" place on the exterior of any Airstream, silicone sealer has any value.

The hinge area must be clean. If you have used any lube on the window hinges, it must be remove before any silicone sealer can be successfully used.

That last thing to seal, with Vulkem, is the very top of the window frame.

If your having leaks on the curb side, also resealing the awning rail will usually be necessary as well.

Andy



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Old 06-07-2004, 07:01 PM   #13
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Thanks, Andy! I'll give it a try and see how it goes. I sure will be happy to finally get all these leaks fixed.
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Old 06-07-2004, 07:06 PM   #14
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Window leaks.

Stephanie.

I should have added that the vista view and stack windows are also famous leakers.

Simply clean the glass to metal area.

Seal the stack windows with Parbond.

Seal the vista view windows with Vulkem.

You were not specific as to exactly where the water was coming in.

Let me know, and I will try to help you fix those leaks as well.

Andy
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