Window leaks '63 Sov. Land Yacht

[Dugger10]

OK I have spent three nights searching this thread for window repair. I have a 63 Sov. LY with some leaks. I have used a water hose (between rain storms here in Texas) and I dont think the leak is coming from between the frame of the window and the skin of the AS. I think its coming from between the window and frame, I think it need some new glazing. I have a plastic trim thats very brittle and am afraid to attempt removal until I have a better understanding of how this goes together and if I can get a replacement for this trim. So I need you experts, my first thought was to remove the trim and use silicone to stop the leaks. Seems like I read something about not doing this from Andy ? Anyway I need to fix these windows so I can complete the floor replacement so any help would be great. Thanks for a great forum, I need to become a supporting member, can anyone tell me the address to send a check. Thanks again, Doug

[Ganglin]

I believe the correct procedure is to trim off the seal between the frame and glass. Then seal it with a bead of Vulkem or you can use TemPro 635 which makes a nice smooth seal and sets up a little faster.

There are also glazing strips for the 60's trailers here.


Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

How's the window gasket itself...?

[Dugger10]

Thanks Gary,

Would

[Dugger10]

I'll try again. Thaks Gary, but would the entire window need to be removed and rest in the tempro.

[Ganglin]

No. If it looks anything like mine the edge between the window frame and the glass looks almost like glazing compound - but its a seal. The idea is to simply cut the seal out along the metal frame edge and replace that with Vulkem or Tempro (which is Vulkem that sets faster). I've only used Tempro and really like it but it's thin so it spreads a lot if you smooth it off with a finger tip. It cames off the metal frame easily with mineral spirits. I believe Inland Andy recommends taping off the glass to get a smoother edge on it - remove the tape as soon as your done - don't let the sealer set up.

You should have a bead of sealer running the top of your window frame also and extending down about 3 inches on each side. That's where my one window leaked - but they all need new rubber seals also.

[uwe]

I just did a bunch of 63 Hehr windows recently. It is indeed best if you slide them out of the stationary window frame. Remove the actuators ( carefully) and then a little screw in the center top of the window. The moveable panel then slides out to one side.
See the pictures below, the glass is held in by glazing tape. You can use double sided carpet tape also. I decided to put a thin bead of ParBond at teh endge of the glass, between teh glass and the frame extrusion. The glazing bead later covers that. The pictures are somewhat dark, but should show how this actually goes together. New window gaskets help, too.
The glazing bead makes a nice new finish, and helps push the glass against the glazing tape. I also cleaned and greased the actuators.
Ask.....

[63air]

I second the Vintage Trailer Supply suggestion. They should have everything you need to do the job. I mitered the corners and Red Devil has a silicone caulk that matches the moulding colors perfectly when you seal the joint.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by 63air

I second the Vintage Trailer Supply suggestion.

That's where I bought all the window seals for my 63 Overlander.
Par Bond works well also for joining the mitered seal corners.

[Dugger10]

Thanks for all the help folks, sorry for the delay in answering. Doug