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Old 08-02-2005, 06:40 PM   #15
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
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Our hospital equipment repair folks abhor WD-40. It is a light oil, never evaporates and always attracts more dirt. Silicone stays slippery after the vehicle (usually water) evaporates.

Syncolon? Sounds like an anagram of silicone. Reminds me of a fish tank nutritional supplement that tried to disguise why it cost $4 for a couple grams -- one of the 'mysterious' ingredients was 'sodii hypo phosphis.' Anybody going by the DQ in Mora, MN should stop there for an old-fashioned chocolate soda! For less than $4 you get a tall glass! (It's not on the menu board -- gotta ask special.) There is enough area to park your towed rig while running in...

John Irwin does it again -- something to file for my Safari-to-be's Classic style windows!


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Old 08-02-2005, 07:01 PM   #16
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In looking at this thread I see there are a few misconceptions as to WD40.
WD40 is not a good choice for lubrication for anything subjected to heat, light or dirt. WD40 will attract dust and become sticky from dust. WD40 breaks down and becomes a soild mass, which will jam anything it touches.
First Hand knowlage "Don't use it".

As others have said, a good Teflon or Silicone based lube is the way to go.
I have used a product called Tri-Flow for many years in industrial use without any gumming occuring. Tri-Flow is a Teflon type lube.

Another type of lube which works great is Coloidal Graphite like "Lock Ease"
The only problem with this is graphite is messy if touched. It is my choice for use on enclosed shafts.

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Old 08-02-2005, 07:59 PM   #17
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i find LPS #2 to work fine. light oil that doesn't dry out. excellent corrosion resistance.

you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:31 PM   #18
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window locks, lubes and video tapes......

hi sonya and others

those "awful" window locks have been on airstreams a mightly long least 30 years. they are simple to service, provide a positive locking mechanism and owner adjustable when new or as they wear or the gaskets wear or as the frames wear.

for old streams it's nice to know that the parts are still in use and readily available.....and that the windows can be closed tightly with this simple mechanism.

i've noticed that the red painted versions....a result of "safety" improvements are more prone to stick. i think it's because the metal on metal surface is fouled by paint. the most proper correction therefore, is to remove the handle (use an allen wrench) sand the paint off the friction surface and re-attach.

for a simplier solution or on the non painted variety.....
first make sure the contact surfaces are the window, go outside and inspect the latch mechanism. open and close it several times and rotate from latched to unlatched an close lots more.

yes they might need adjusting but usually this is an issue as they wear and need to be tightened some.....seldom do new ones need loosening if properly cleaned and lubed. yes they are tight on new trailers...but that's how they are supposed to be.

because the mechanism is metal on metal, silicone is not the ideal long term lube. a much better choice is graphite or dry ptfe or a light drop is all that's needed....just make sure the lube gets to the proper surfaces. again when you inspect closely the location is obvious for the "handle closed" position.

if on the other hand the issue is turning the handle, first determine if the handle turns freely when the window is open....if not... lube the threads. if the handles turn freely when the window is open but not when securing the window, they may need adjusting....or a drop of lube/graphite on the flat hook where it engages the window clasp may solve the problem.

again try everything (cleaning and lubing) BEFORE adjusting the lock nut/lever........because if you fail to get the latch properly tighten, after adjusting, it may come loose/off during travel. having a window flop open and shatter is a more "awful" problem than a sticky latch.

while spray lubes are popular, all of the sprays tend to scatter onto the window itself and make them messy. then if you "spray" the glass area with window cleaner, you end up removing the lube during back to square one.

better to apply whatever lube in a droplet form to avoid getting the glass messing at all. try to lube just the metal friction/contact surfaces.

candle wax or bar soap can also be used for the lube with the added benifit of not attracking dirt and washing away if rain gets on the latches.

as for wd-40.....yes there are lots of myths about it....becoming a "solid mass" is a new one.....and i doubt that can happen.....especially since most of the useful properties of wd are a result of it solvent character......

if the window latching mechanisms happen to get soaked with water that's eactly when wd-40 would be most useful.......

the 'wd' stands for "water dispersant" and represents the original purpose of the 'disperse/displace water' from metal and surfaces/contact points that might oxidize or otherwise deteriorate when exposed to water. the wd 40 displaces the water and replaces it with a light, volitile, short lived lubricantand solvent and anti-corrosive film.

for those interested the website is interesting and fun. so is the list of 2000 (and growing) uses for wd-40....

good luck with those window latches!!

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Old 08-03-2005, 05:08 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Tinsel Loaf
Synthetic Lubricant with Syncolon? What do you think Syncolon is made from.....
Umm....Breaking the word into its two major parts. Syn...Colon...Not sure I want to go there...

Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
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