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Old 02-08-2005, 03:46 PM   #1
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sun tinting windows

The windows on the 1979 safari i bought were cleaned with Cleanex by the previous owner and have bubbled. The quote I got from the tint film company asked if I was removing the screens myself..it looks like a complicated and time consuming job to take all the latch and handle assemblies from the windows..I think that just by opening the windows the sun tint film could be applied from outside the trailer while the windows are at 90 degrees and open..any suggestions?
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:52 AM   #2
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Tint

Quote:
Originally Posted by atvmcg
The windows on the 1979 safari i bought were cleaned with Cleanex by the previous owner and have bubbled. The quote I got from the tint film company asked if I was removing the screens myself..it looks like a complicated and time consuming job to take all the latch and handle assemblies from the windows..I think that just by opening the windows the sun tint film could be applied from outside the trailer while the windows are at 90 degrees and open..any suggestions?
When I had mine tinted, I took the windows off. On mine there are two nut and the window is off.
This allowed for better cleaning and tinting.

Don
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Old 02-09-2005, 02:43 PM   #3
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ok, thanks, I'll try that, i'll just have to wait on the weather til it's a nice sunny day.
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Old 02-09-2005, 04:25 PM   #4
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We have been debating replacing the tinting on our windows. Are there types to stay away from? (besides the ones with bubbles )

Or are there preferred brands/application methods?

Anyone willing to share a cost range per window?
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Old 02-09-2005, 06:26 PM   #5
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Use only top quality tinting material

Quote:
Originally Posted by sovereignrwe
We have been debating replacing the tinting on our windows. Are there types to stay away from? (besides the ones with bubbles )

Or are there preferred brands/application methods?

Anyone willing to share a cost range per window?

Sovereignwe,

Several years ago, a tint shop told me to always insist (a make sure they don't switch) a major brand like 3M. The film is thicker, harder to work but they hold color better, more durable and last longer.
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:02 PM   #6
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3M or Solar Gard are about the best, I had my conversion van done in 3M about 2 years ago and they are as good now as then..the limo dark tint keeps the sun glare to a minimum and helps against interior heat build up. Just be sure never to clean them with any ammonia based cleaner (like Windex) as it will bubble. In fact I never allow Windex anywhere near my Airstream in case some helpful person decides to help out and spot clean. I use ammonia free cleaner by Eagle on the conversion van I also have..never let a full service car wash clean the interior as they will for sure use an ammonia based cleaner and cost you a bundle in replacement costs.
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Old 02-23-2005, 02:09 PM   #7
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Great information! Thank you! Anyone that can give some pricing estimates?
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Old 02-23-2005, 03:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sovereignrwe
Great information! Thank you! Anyone that can give some pricing estimates?
Mark & Kimber,

The most experience is with 3 cars. The cost was about 110.00 and base (less expensive films were around 90.00.

About 10 years ago I had my dining room windows done in a commericial grade film (a type used in Blockbuster storefronts) to block UV rays. This room had a view, I removed the window treatments but wanted to protect the carpet and furniture. I can't remember the cost but it seems it was about $350 or $375 to cover 5 windows @ 14'Long X 8' High. This film had translucent metalic material in it and was designed to block heat & UV rays, it might be great for an Airstream too. I found a website that may have information that could help, they cans send samples to you. http://www.mr-window-tinting.com/ . If your brave enough you may be confident to install it yourself, I have to rely on a pro!

Hope this helps,
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Old 02-23-2005, 07:55 PM   #9
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I finally had my windows done today, 2/23/05, I paid $335.00 which included tax and a lifetime warranty against blistering, bubbling, discoloration, cracking, crazing, delaminating, demetalizing and peeling. I chose the V-Kool VK-40. Looks great! I'm glad I had them installed by a pro as he had a hell of a time coping with the 2 curved windows in the front and had to re-do one of them a second time( another hour!) 7 windows in 3-4 hours install time.
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Old 02-23-2005, 09:20 PM   #10
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How about some outside looking in and inside looking out pictures when you get the chance?
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Old 02-23-2005, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
How about some outside looking in and inside looking out pictures when you get the chance?
It'll be a couple of weeks before the moisture evaporates and the adhesive sets according to the instructions. I'll do some photos at that point before I put up the new blinds and new drapes...should look really nice. Now I have to tackle the floor and build a counter/table while I'm waiting! LOL
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Old 02-25-2005, 04:41 PM   #12
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Thank you for the information John!
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Old 02-25-2005, 04:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atvmcg
I finally had my windows done today, 2/23/05, I paid $335.00 which included tax and a lifetime warranty against blistering, bubbling, discoloration, cracking, crazing, delaminating, demetalizing and peeling. I chose the V-Kool VK-40. Looks great! I'm glad I had them installed by a pro as he had a hell of a time coping with the 2 curved windows in the front and had to re-do one of them a second time( another hour!) 7 windows in 3-4 hours install time.
Did you end up removing the windows yourself or let the shop do that work? Does your trailer have any non-opening windows? The research I did didn't show any. Our 72 Soveriegn has additional non-opening windows under most of the front side windows. Of the top of my head there are 3. I'm not sure how those would be tinted, other than just from the inside of the trailer.

We have a rock shield/shade over the front window, so I could cut some of the cost by not tinting them.
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Old 02-25-2005, 05:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sovereignrwe
Did you end up removing the windows yourself or let the shop do that work? Does your trailer have any non-opening windows? The research I did didn't show any. Our 72 Soveriegn has additional non-opening windows under most of the front side windows. Of the top of my head there are 3. I'm not sure how those would be tinted, other than just from the inside of the trailer.

We have a rock shield/shade over the front window, so I could cut some of the cost by not tinting them.
I googled "How to remove adhesive from tinted windows" and after reading many ideas I chose razor blades( buy a box), windex and soapy water in a spray bottle. I found that a new razor blade will give you about 2 or 3 good strokes from top to bottom taking away film AND adhesive..then switch to a new blade. The ease far outweighs the cost of the blades. Spray intermittently with windex til the old film is gone, then wash twice with soapy water and paper towels.
I have 3 non opening windows. A long curved window next to the door and the 2 windows on the front corners. The installer cut the film slightly larger and placed it on the outside of the windows, then shrank it using water and a heat gun, then recut it to fit perfectly and then applied the film on the inside of the window.
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