Have you ever tried to open your CCD style windows, only to find that they are stuck to the gasket and no amount of pushing and pulling on the guides will work? It happened to me and I came up with a typical woman's soluton that works very well and doesn't mar the gasket. (Guys use duct tape, women grab a piece of silverware!)
I unlock the windows from the inside, go outside with a spoon and gently pry at the bottom of the window with either the handle or the bowl. the handles on my stainless end in a little fan shaped thing. I could just as easily use a flat screwdriver but the edges on the spoon are smoother and won't dig into the gasket. Once the windows are popped loose they can be adjusted from the inside... and they stay loose for a week or two depending on humidity, etc. Takes just a second or so per window.
I had mine stick when I tried to open the windows in Jan. when I got the CCD. Had to pry them open from the outside like you did, but used a plastic putty knife. After they were open, I rubbed the gaskest with DuPont Teflon Multi-purpose Dry Lube. They have not stuck since!
I would recomend using 303 aerospace protecterant. Recomended by fantastc fan to help vent cover from sticking , I also used on my window seals and it alleviated the sticking on them as well. It contains uv protection abd is also a good idea to use on the trailers tire sidewalls.
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2004 30ft Slide Out with Hensley Arrow hitch. Pulled By 2002 Dodge Diesel 4x4 Dually
when we toured the Factory a few months ago, the guide said this was a problem without us even saying anything, he said to put a thin coat of vaseline on the gasket, thats all I know on this subject,
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Master of Airstream
creations for less than 4 Years!
Guys use duct tape, women grab a piece of silverware? Paula, you give a little too much credit to Red Green there. Wouldn't a plunger work?
Or, as I always say, the shear modulus of Gasket A, assuming ν = 0.32; Young’s modulus for adhesive force was determined to be 286 ksi in part (a) of this problem. (Or, equivalently, E = 1970 MPa). The shear modulus is:
G = E/2(1 + v) = 286ksi/2(1.32) = 108ksi
***OR, EQUIVALENTLY***
G = E/2(1 + v) = 1979MPa/2(1.32) = 746 MPa
Okay, getting real now. I know I've seen it on spring checklists that you should silicone your window gaskets. I spray some 3M Silicone Lubricant (Dry type) on a paper towel and spread it on the gaskets. Lew's idea also sounds great. 303 too. Vaseline? I wouldn't want the residues hanging around.
I spray some 3M Silicone Lubricant (Dry type) on a paper towel and spread it on the gaskets. Lew's idea also sounds great. 303 too. Vaseline? I wouldn't want the residues hanging around.
Bob,
Just be sure that the silicone that you use does not contain any petroleum distillates, as they will deteriorate the gaskets over time.And thanks for the math lesson!!
Hello Lew -- Hope the trip is going well. The 3M can says "Safe for metal, rubber and plastics" and "No petroleum oils." Then I went to the 3M MSDS site and it says Propane 20-40%, Acetone 20-40%, Heptane 15-25%, and Poly Dimethylsiloxane 1-10%. I'm okay up to the point of seeing acetone -- that stuff should affect rubber! I've maybe been getting by more safely by spraying it on a paper towel first. The paper towel never really feels wet but the silicone transfer does the job. There is very little other than mild soap or Walbernize that I want to get near the clearcoat! Think I'll go back to a water based silicone that I have. Thanks!
I have a question concerning the use of the rear emergency window in our 23' Safari. Do others prop open the window? If you are not suppose to use it only in an emergency, why is there a screen?
Thanks
Larry
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Larry Smith
Mickleton, NJ
2007 23' Safari SE
2005 Dodge Dakota 4X4
Hmm... My trailer is in storage and I won't be out to it until next weekend. Does the manual say you aren't supposed to use the egress window except for emergency? I had better re-read instructions for that.
From inside the trailer the egress window appears to have an easy system for removing the screen for quick exit. Otherwise I wouldn't think I'd have to stop using the window for ventilation -- I may be wrong. Something else to put on my list for review...
my big butt ain't going thru that window, plus it's a bit on the high side on my unit.
fire extinguishers are cheap, I have three in my trailer & I'll fight my way to the door.
ARGH I just realized how close to the propane tanks my front bedroom is... oooh, yuck.
the window can be used like any normal window, there is a loop of extra screen spline that hangs down and can be yanked - pulling out the whole screen easily. Of course all the screens in new units are plastic rather than aluminum or copper so I'd bet that you could force your hand through ANY screen without too much effort.
I'm not 100% sure but either the hinges and braces are break away, or the glass is extra fragile. Supposedly you can just push it out and crawl through.
We had to pry the window open from the outside and I used the givaway Tupperware tool for peeling oranges, the one side is the width of a screwdriver blade. Note that it was more the concentration of pushing the gasket back away from the glass and letting it release rather than actually prying the window out. I love that plastic tool, besides working on oranges it gets ladybugs out of the awning crevices and scrapes extra caulk from edges without scratching. Have some 303 to apply now.
The orange peeler is the yellow "tool" on the left. My silverware drawer would not be complete without it. lol
__________________ Cj Joy to the world Joy to you and me
Last edited by wheel interested; 05-27-2007 at 10:18 AM..
Just about all my windows were stuck - never had this problem on any previous Airstream. Maybe because the gaskets were all dried out so they were easy to open. Anyway, a few products were mentioned here, 303, silicone w/o petroleum distillates, teflon dry lube etc. Specialty shops, on line... auto parts stores?
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New England Unit
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