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Old 03-20-2012, 12:31 PM   #1
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Round window (porthole). Would this work?

I found this porthole window online and wondered if it might work on my airstream. It is black anodized aluminum and accomodates wall thicknesses of 1 1/2". It only costs $55 online and may be worth buying it just to find out. I think I might be able to sand the paint off to make it match the rest.


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Here is the link to the manufacuturer.
11035S - CRL 12" Round Porthole Window Tinted Tempered Glass for 1/8" or 1-1/2" Wall
Here is the link to an online merchant.
Amazon.com: CR Laurence 11035S 13" Window Porthole: Automotive
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:02 AM   #2
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great minds

It always makes me happy when I have this completely off the wall idea and find someone else already trying it. Birds of a feather, or insanity loves company or something of the sort.
Anyway, I recently ordered (will not arrive until the end of the month) a porthole window to replace the rear window in my Airstream. I have been full timing for about 18 months now and the single pane abundant windows (most of which I have covered with insulation) let the cold out in the summer and the heat out in the winter. I am in Utah too, working out of Vernal.
I have looked at ones like you have posted, but considered them trading apples for apples, thin glass, not northwest ready. I picked up a brass boat porthole window with 1in thick glass off ebay for $50 and think (it has yet to arrive) it will be the ticket.
Currently, the question is replace the window glass in the rear window with the same thickness 6061 (mine is a 71) and mount the porthole or attempt a "patch" of two sheets, after removing all traces of the old window, and make a wall out of the old window (I would think this would entail framing up the wall with aluminum channel the same way you frame up a house window coverup)
Keep us informed on how your project continues. I only post a couple of times a year so far (down time is scarce with my job) but was motivated because I just found a suitable cost/size brass porthole window today and then your post. It seemed in the cards.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:12 AM   #3
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If you go to the online merchant, it's only $44.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:00 AM   #4
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Sure

Well, David Winick did it in the 75 Anniversary trailer -

2007 Airstream David Winick 75th Anniversary Limited Edition 19' Bambi (30 of 75 built) - Airstream Trailer Classifieds - Airstreams Trailers For Sale

Looks cool!
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:15 AM   #5
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I'd love to have a porthole window in the door of my Sov, but 1" thick? I wonder if a large sheet of AL (the size of a rear window), would support that weight while travelling without any problems...
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
I'd love to have a porthole window in the door of my Sov, but 1" thick? I wonder if a large sheet of AL (the size of a rear window), would support that weight while travelling without any problems...
If the roof can "sort of" support an air conditioner, the back wall can support a porthole window, in my opinion. Especially if it is attached to both the inner and outer skins, it will be part of the structure that holds up the back end of the trailer.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by timzog View Post
If the roof can "sort of" support an air conditioner, the back wall can support a porthole window, in my opinion. Especially if it is attached to both the inner and outer skins, it will be part of the structure that holds up the back end of the trailer.
Yes, I suppose you're right. Just seems like overkill, but then, you didn't order the window like that, it was just happenstance that it is that thick.

If you change your mind, I'd still like to have it for my door.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:53 AM   #8
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I am planning to reskin my front door, and thought adding a porthole would add to the fun. I stumbled upon the link below, which looks like a pretty classy unit-especially the ones that open. I requested a quote for a fixed window in stainless. We'll see how shocking that ends up.

Aluminalia | Ojo de buey, Ojos de buey, Porthole, Oeil de Boeuf, Rownd Windows, Aluminio, Aluminium
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
I'd love to have a porthole window in the door of my Sov, but 1" thick? I wonder if a large sheet of AL (the size of a rear window), would support that weight while travelling without any problems...
I think what is meant is it can fit a door/ wall that is that thick, not that the glass is 1" thick. A marine quality porthole is thick and heavy with a very heavy price. I doubt $44 will get you a marine porthole.

By the way, I plan to reskin my door and add a small fixed airstream window I have. I also have another I want to sell with a bunch of old international rally decals if anyone is interested.

The main problem with installing this old Airstream window is coming up with something to make a inside frame/ molding which looks vintage. Any suggestions from the peanut gallery?
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:03 AM   #10
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
I think I might be able to sand the paint off to make it match the rest.
Or paint it with liquid stainless paint?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:26 AM   #11
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I was thinking about adding one to my door also, but the ones I've seen, except for David Winick's are for for flat surfaces, not curved.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:04 PM   #12
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Anyone gone forward with this?
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:47 PM   #13
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I am waiting to see, also. I have two oval brass portholes waiting to be installed. I need only one, but couldn't pass up the deal on two. I think one would fit very nicely on the door of my '61 Safari. All the aluminum ones I have seen seem cheap in comparison to the brass ones. I am not in any hurry, but I hope someone shares some photos of their installation to give me more ideas.
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:35 AM   #14
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holding

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
I think what is meant is it can fit a door/ wall that is that thick, not that the glass is 1" thick. A marine quality porthole is thick and heavy with a very heavy price. I doubt $44 will get you a marine porthole.

By the way, I plan to reskin my door and add a small fixed airstream window I have. I also have another I want to sell with a bunch of old international rally decals if anyone is interested.

The main problem with installing this old Airstream window is coming up with something to make a inside frame/ molding which looks vintage. Any suggestions from the peanut gallery?
The $44 dollar porthole is a copy of a marine porthole timzog found online.

The 1in thick glass porthole is a marine porthole, I purchase from ebay for $50, the glass is just under an inch thick, and it sets in a brass ring that looks vintage--all that is the good part. The bad part is the glass has a nasty scratch I didn't see, in the ebay ad. I am undecided on the
porthole and don't want to cut any holes in the Airstream in the winter.

We'll see how it goes.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
I am planning to reskin my front door, and thought adding a porthole would add to the fun. I stumbled upon the link below, which looks like a pretty classy unit-especially the ones that open. I requested a quote for a fixed window in stainless. We'll see how shocking that ends up.

Aluminalia | Ojo de buey, Ojos de buey, Porthole, Oeil de Boeuf, Rownd Windows, Aluminio, Aluminium
Hi,
Have you re-skinned your door yet? Guessing your planning on re-skinning the inner? Have you found a good source for the aluminum? Someone was nice enough to pull the inner skin on my door and used luan instead. Of course, ANY moisture on luan and it starts to delaminate.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:59 AM   #16
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As it happens, CR Laurence makes the side windows for the Airstream Interstate. They make good products.

Hard-core yachties would tell you, though, if it doesn't open, it's a portlight, not a porthole.

By the way, one-inch-thick windows won't keep the heat in much better that the thin windows Clear glass has an R-value of 0.14 per inch of thickness, so the insulating value of a 1-inch pane is hardly any better than the value of a 1/8-inch pane. Both provide almost nothing.

What you want is double-pane portlights. Or, if you can't manage that, what you want is a low-emissivity film on your windows. Even better, double-pane with low-e film…

You have to be careful, though; low-e films block heat transfer, but they get hot to the touch in direct sunlight— the heat they don't transfer has to go somewhere, after all.

You would have to decide which is more important, keeping heat out or keeping it in, based on where and when you camp the most. If you want to keep heat out with single-pane windows, put the film on the outside of the glass. If you want to keep heat in, put it on the inside of the glass.

If you go with double-pane, then it's a little different; to keep heat out, put the low-e film on the inside of the outer pane. To keep heat in, put the low-e film on the outside of the inner pane. Either way, the low-e film is in between the two panes of glass, safe from being touched.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:04 AM   #17
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I'm in the middle of the reskin and decided I had better make up my mind about adding a window. I have gotten aluminum sheets in the past from Aircraft Spruce, but found a local supplier that was much more cost effective. I am redoing both the inner and outer skins. Inner skin will be raw aluminum, as I could not find a source for the pre-clear coated stuff. I sent a message to Winnick asking about the supplier of the windows used in the 75th anniversary model, as there has been some suggestion that these have a curve to them, and are not just flat. Haven't heard back yet, so I'll give it some time.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:26 PM   #18
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Dave Winnick replied promptly to my request for information. Turns out the windows in the 75th anniversary trailer were a limited run, so are not available to order. Also explained was that the outer glass pane was contoured to match the curvature of the door, and the inner pane was flat. Curses.....
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:07 PM   #19
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Unobtanium strikes again...
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #20
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Well friends, I am well along the way on the door re-skin. I've come to the conclusion that trying to install any non-contoured window will be a no-go. There is just too much gap at the top and bottom of the flat window (I made a "dummy" to check it out). The only option I have come upon for a contoured window is either to use a salvaged window from approximately the same level on the body, or possibly to use a new door window ordered from the factory (haven't explored this too thoroughly yet).
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