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Old 11-06-2012, 06:26 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
I am planning to reskin my front door, and thought adding a porthole would add to the fun. I stumbled upon the link below, which looks like a pretty classy unit-especially the ones that open. I requested a quote for a fixed window in stainless. We'll see how shocking that ends up.

Aluminalia | Ojo de buey, Ojos de buey, Porthole, Oeil de Boeuf, Rownd Windows, Aluminio, Aluminium
Hi,
Have you re-skinned your door yet? Guessing your planning on re-skinning the inner? Have you found a good source for the aluminum? Someone was nice enough to pull the inner skin on my door and used luan instead. Of course, ANY moisture on luan and it starts to delaminate.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:59 AM   #16
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As it happens, CR Laurence makes the side windows for the Airstream Interstate. They make good products.

Hard-core yachties would tell you, though, if it doesn't open, it's a portlight, not a porthole.

By the way, one-inch-thick windows won't keep the heat in much better that the thin windows Clear glass has an R-value of 0.14 per inch of thickness, so the insulating value of a 1-inch pane is hardly any better than the value of a 1/8-inch pane. Both provide almost nothing.

What you want is double-pane portlights. Or, if you can't manage that, what you want is a low-emissivity film on your windows. Even better, double-pane with low-e film…

You have to be careful, though; low-e films block heat transfer, but they get hot to the touch in direct sunlight— the heat they don't transfer has to go somewhere, after all.

You would have to decide which is more important, keeping heat out or keeping it in, based on where and when you camp the most. If you want to keep heat out with single-pane windows, put the film on the outside of the glass. If you want to keep heat in, put it on the inside of the glass.

If you go with double-pane, then it's a little different; to keep heat out, put the low-e film on the inside of the outer pane. To keep heat in, put the low-e film on the outside of the inner pane. Either way, the low-e film is in between the two panes of glass, safe from being touched.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:04 AM   #17
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I'm in the middle of the reskin and decided I had better make up my mind about adding a window. I have gotten aluminum sheets in the past from Aircraft Spruce, but found a local supplier that was much more cost effective. I am redoing both the inner and outer skins. Inner skin will be raw aluminum, as I could not find a source for the pre-clear coated stuff. I sent a message to Winnick asking about the supplier of the windows used in the 75th anniversary model, as there has been some suggestion that these have a curve to them, and are not just flat. Haven't heard back yet, so I'll give it some time.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:26 PM   #18
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Dave Winnick replied promptly to my request for information. Turns out the windows in the 75th anniversary trailer were a limited run, so are not available to order. Also explained was that the outer glass pane was contoured to match the curvature of the door, and the inner pane was flat. Curses.....
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:07 PM   #19
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Unobtanium strikes again...
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:18 PM   #20
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Well friends, I am well along the way on the door re-skin. I've come to the conclusion that trying to install any non-contoured window will be a no-go. There is just too much gap at the top and bottom of the flat window (I made a "dummy" to check it out). The only option I have come upon for a contoured window is either to use a salvaged window from approximately the same level on the body, or possibly to use a new door window ordered from the factory (haven't explored this too thoroughly yet).
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:02 PM   #21
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Belegadhel,

You probably find the windowless door cold and uninviting, as I did with my old Argosy.

And you've found out that a flat window won't fit the Airstream profile....

I managed to find a galley window that fit exactly when member Balgrn was parting out one of his Argosys.

You can see the process in post # 274, 280 and 325 on my main thread, here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...tml#post182701

How I finished the interior is shown in post # 659.

One of the salvage companies, like Colaw in Missouri, might be able to help you. Try Jackson Center too. If they had the port hole made for the 75th Edition they might have some replacements in stock and agree to part with one.

We Have Your Part…*|*Colaw RV Parts and Salvage

Sergei
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:43 AM   #22
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hmmmm

Below you'll see what they're using on newer Airstreams. Realize the oval window probably won't have the curve you're needing for exterior door, but maybe worth a check?

As well, found it really nice that the Front Bedroom models that have a curb-side bath with no exterior windows have a 'port-hole' window on bath door. 3rd photo is a view from inside of bathroom.

Wonder where Airstream sources their windows??
Derek
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:15 AM   #23
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The door definitely has a curve. I took the privacy glass out of my entry door, to replace it with a piece of tinted, tempered glass that I had made up. When I went to install it, I found that I had to clip in the top, then bend the glass until the bottom touched, then tap in the bottom clip with a rubber mallet. It was about a 3/8" bend over the approx 20" length, as I recall.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #24
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Perhaps plexiglass would be a better choice? At least it will bend somewhat if heated...
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:50 PM   #25
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So the question becomes, IF I could get one of the contoured windows for a 75th anniversary trailer, would the door contour match that of a 70's era trailer?
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:18 AM   #26
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I thought about plexiglas, but glass is a permanent solution. Plexiglas scratches, cracks, and looks bad after a few years. Might be okay for a boat windshield, but as a window that you look through, I'd find myself looking at the window instead of through it. It is so nice to have the view through the door. With as few windows as we have, it really helps to bring the outdoors inside.
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:52 AM   #27
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eureka

I talked to the factory, and it turns out that they can still make the round windows that were used in the 75th anniversay model. The part numbers are as follows:
Porthole window and frame (exterior): 371414
Interior trim pieces: 115327

I called a dealer to price out the parts, and together they add up to about $400 plus shipping.

Chatted with a another guy at the factory about how compatible this window would be with the 70's body, and he confirmed my suspicion that the contour of the doors will not match, that the 70's have a more exaggerated curvature, but he thought that the window frame could be bent to accommodate the window.

So now the big decision....
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:01 AM   #28
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Maybe, but will the glass bend?

In my case, the galley window in the 1976 ARGOSY, across from the entry door, was pretty much the same curve as the door. (The curvature of the body changes every foot, or even less, of body length, as you probably know).

I can't remember what I paid for the parted-out window but it was just a handful of dollars - far, far less than the $500.00 being asked for a new porthole.

Sergei
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